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| Front and Rear Suspension Rebuild | Rating: 
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| Posted: 05-06-2008 06:39 pm |
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1st Post |
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LambandAndy Member 
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The attached picture represents about four months of beating, pressing, grinding, cursing, painting, bead blasting, machining, wire brushing, swearing and waiting for the UPS guy to show up, not to mention a sizeable donation to both Delta and the Club Store. Parts replaced/refurbished included front sub-frame (bent), all bushings front and rear, brake calipers and pistons, steering shaft knuckle (made my own bushings out of oil impregnated bronze), ball joints, shocks (KYB), brake lines and hoses, ........... On Greg's scale of 1-4 vino's I'd rate this one at about 16 cases of Old Milwaukee's Best Ice! If anyone else is getting into this maybe I can save you some of the frustrations I went through. I did take a bunch of pictures that might be of use to someone. Andy #15223 Attachment: SANY0381c.jpg (Downloaded 852 times)
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| Posted: 05-08-2008 02:30 am |
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2nd Post |
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Art DeKneef Member
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I know exactly what you mean. My front end is about 60% percent done. I'm trying to decide what to do about the rotors, need to get the braided brake lines and I'm using the Koni's that came with the car. I need to clean the rotors and measure to see if they are usable. I've have taken apart the 5-speed rear and am cleaning and blasting pieces for the rebuild. Doing this while I try to find someone to check the body for being within specs and prepping it for primer. I think I have better taste in beer, Sam Adams Light. Art
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| Posted: 05-08-2008 06:04 pm |
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3rd Post |
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LambandAndy Member
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If I had my "rathers" it'd be Newcastle Brown, but after buying all those parts, I had to economize somewhere :)
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| Posted: 05-08-2008 06:16 pm |
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4th Post |
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Brett Gibson JH5 20497 Member
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Ditto, one of the nastiest jobs on the whole dang car, drivers side upper pivot bolt for the suspension was rusted solid, regular beatings / heat / and penetrating oil, for a week and a half before it finally budged. Then of course the "while I'm here" syndrome struck, ended up with, clutch, pressure plate, pilot bearing, exhaust header gasket, engine mounts, poly bushings thru out, brake lines, new coil springs, Koni's, and on and on. Definitely not a job for the faint of heart, but worth every busted knuckle.
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| Posted: 05-09-2008 10:35 pm |
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5th Post |
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mnunes22 Member
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Hey Andy, nice pile-O-parts! I'm waiting on one more delivery of bushings before I start my suspension over-haul. Pictures are a great help to me. Could you post the ones you took of your project? My strut-rod and upper a-arm bushings are shot on drivers side and crossmember bushing is shot on passenger side. Car tends to be pretty "squirrely" when driving bumpy roads. I don't know what else I'll find when I take it all apart so any pictures or insights would be much appreciated. As for beer selection, lately I've been rotating between Kona Longboard and Widmer Hefeweizen. Sounds like I need to stock up for project! Thanks, Bill
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| Posted: 05-10-2008 02:10 am |
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6th Post |
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John Kimbrough Member
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Bill, there are a ton of pictures of my front suspension rebuild on my web site. Also step by step instructions. Cheers, John. http://home.comcast.net/~jrkengr2/html/front_supension_rebuild.html
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| Posted: 05-10-2008 03:24 am |
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7th Post |
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LambandAndy Member
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Bill, I wouldn't know where to start to do as good a job as John to post my pictures. Sure wish I had read his article before I tackled mine though. Sill, if there is something in particular you get stuck on, maybe I can help. Just to give you some encouragement, this is what you want to end up with. Good luck, Andy #15223 PS One of those motorcycle/ATV lifts work a treat for getting stuff in and out from under the car. Even better if you can find one that has castors on it. Works for transmissions too. Attachment: SANY0364c.jpg (Downloaded 773 times)
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| Posted: 05-10-2008 02:27 pm |
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8th Post |
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John Kimbrough Member
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Andy, your suspension looks fantastic. I did not pull the crossmember and do all the rebuild you did, so your pictures would certainly be additive to mine. Nice job! John.
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| Posted: 05-10-2008 05:13 pm |
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9th Post |
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Dan Collier Member 
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Could you send a bunch of pictures to me. I'll post them in the repair area of the http://www.jhppg.com website. Thanks dkcollier@jhppg.com
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| Posted: 06-04-2008 02:22 am |
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10th Post |
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LambandAndy Member
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Sorry guys, Life has been a little hectic lately. Will get to it soon. Andy
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| Posted: 07-31-2008 09:56 am |
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11th Post |
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subwoofer Member
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Does anyone know the Vauxhall part numbers for the suspension parts? I am building a cross reference for parts as I get hold of them, but finding the parts I need would be much easier if I knew the Vauxhall numbers. My front suspension is due for a rebuild, the bushings are not up to scratch, and my left front shock absorber is failing, so I should get started fairly soon. Also, I think I need a new left knuckle and a wheel bearing set, Vauxhall part numbers for those would be great too. -- Joachim
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| Posted: 08-31-2008 10:21 am |
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12th Post |
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subwoofer Member
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Andy: Where did you place the axle stand under the engine when you dropped the front suspension? I need to do the same procedure on my car now, since not only the bushings are worn out but also the engine mounts. I'd rather not drive the axle stand through the sump... Joachim
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| Posted: 09-02-2008 12:38 am |
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13th Post |
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LambandAndy Member
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Joachim, I did place the axle stand under the sump but with a 2x6 inbetween to spread the load. It's a little tight, but possible, to lift with a jack then transfer to the axle stand to get the jack out of the way. Good luck, Andy
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| Posted: 09-07-2008 05:16 am |
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14th Post |
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mnunes22 Member
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Joachin, I just completed my front suspension rebuild and sub-frame replacement. I used two axle stands and a 4X4 piece of wood about 18" / 46mm long cut to match the slope of the oil pan (sump) relative to the placement of the 4X4 on top of the axle stands. I had no problems with this set-up. It also helped with jack placement when I installed the sub-frame. I used advice from club archives and from John Kimbroughs torque settings sheet which saved a lot of time and worry. Good luck on your project! Bill Nunes #14592
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| Posted: 10-22-2008 09:52 am |
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15th Post |
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subwoofer Member
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Thanks for the info, Bill. My rebuild is finally underway, pulled the right rear corner apart yesterday, no real problems. The old bushings are completely done, so I reckon I'll get a real improvement in handling once I'm done! Now for todays question: Any tricks for getting the old bushing out of the upper rear mount point (the one on the bell housing)? I was not planning on detaching the drive shaft for this job, but the old bushings seem rather stuck. I saw that John made himself a makeshift press tool, what dimensions did you use for that, John? -- Joachim
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| Posted: 10-22-2008 03:57 pm |
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16th Post |
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John Kimbrough Member
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As you said Joachim, it was a makeshift press rig. Although I cannot remember the dimensions, I used materials on hand. The receiving end was a threaded pipe connector, and the press end was a large socket of the right diameter. A few large washers, and in my case a large hole saw, to make up the ends, and then a bolt to run all the way through. Even at that it was a bear pressing it out. Good luck. John.
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| Posted: 10-22-2008 04:17 pm |
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17th Post |
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Art DeKneef Member
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On one of my rebuilds I was able to get some of the bushings out by using the press method. Like others took a while. But there were some that were rather stubborn and didn't want to budge. So what I did was use a drill bit and drill through the rubber bushing several times going all the way around. After I did this it wasn't too difficult to get the metal bushing out and then get most of the remaining bushinr out. Followed by a wire wheel to clean the inside. I felt it took about the same amount of time using either method. Art
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| Posted: 01-28-2009 09:29 pm |
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18th Post |
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subwoofer Member
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Art: I tried making a makeshift press rig, using two (slightly modified) sockets and a piece of threaded rod, but the first one simply will not budge. When it finally started budging, the socket I used for a driver started widening the outer shell, exactly what I did not want. I'm going for option 2 now, I have drilled out the rubber, som the inner tube is out. The rubber is rotten, but apparently it still sticks quite well to the outer housing. Did you weaken the outer housing in any way to get it out, or did you just use a hammer and bang on it till it came out? Getting the other bushes out was no problem, used a hydraulic press, but as I said earlier, I wasn't planning on stripping down the axle itself for this job, leaving that for some other time. -- Joachim, starting to wonder what he has gotten himself into...
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| Posted: 01-29-2009 01:18 am |
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19th Post |
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Art DeKneef Member
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From what I remember for those that would not press out I used a 1/4 quarter inch drill bit and drilled several holes all the way around. While drilling the holes I wiggled the bit back and forth to remove even more rubber. Eventually enough rubber was removed that the bushing in the middle fell out. After getting out as much rubber as I could I used a small wire wheel to clean the inside. After everything was clean I primered everything, painted and then installed the bushings using the grease I got with my bushings. On the bushing replacement on the rear end after getting the rubber out there was a thin metal tube that was between the rubber and the arm. I used an electric sawz-all with a fine blade and a light touch to cut through the metal tube. I checked the progress several times so I didn't cut into the arm. After making the cut tapping between the tube and the arm with an old thin screwdriver the tube popped out. I don't have any close up pictures of this that I could quickly find so I'm not sure if I even have any. If you need more info just ask. Art
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| Posted: 01-29-2009 08:48 pm |
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20th Post |
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mdutch Member 
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Wonder if you could use a hole saw with the right dia to fit the rubber?
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