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| Moderated by: Greg Fletcher |
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| Pedalbox rebuild | Rate Topic |
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| Posted: 05-01-2010 08:52 pm |
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1st Post |
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Art DeKneef Member
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I want to clean up the pedal box before putting it back on the car. The pedals and the brake switch bracket have rust on them so I would like to media blast, prime and paint them. The rods holding the pedals looks like a press fit. Before I try harder pounding them out has anyone removed them before? Do I need to press them out or can I use something to pound them out? Thanks.
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| Posted: 05-02-2010 11:54 pm |
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2nd Post |
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James Sohl Member
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Art, The brake pivot has 'C' clips on the outside of the pedal box. The other two pivot shafts, the clutch and accelerator, have their clips along the shaft between the bosses. It is quite a fiddle to get everything apart, and take pictures, as I found re-assembly to be a little less than intuitive (big surprise on a brit car!) Regards, Jim p.s. No press necessary, the shafts 'should' slide right out with the removal of the clips. Your mileage may vary depending on the degree and location of rust and other grunge. Last edited on 05-03-2010 12:00 am by James Sohl |
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| Posted: 05-03-2010 06:31 am |
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3rd Post |
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Art DeKneef Member
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Jim, Thanks for the push in the right direction. I saw the two outer circlips for the brake pedal right away. It was the other two shafts that I had the problem with. What I thought were thin edges to the end of a spacer tube were the other circlips. Once I removed two from each shaft it was a little easier removing the shafts. I'm not sure if these shafts are the same for both the Healeys and GTs since the workshop manual doesn't indicate one way or another. But since this pedal box came from the now deceased GT I got each of the shafts had serrated lines on one side that helped them stay attached to the pedal box. It took some ummm..persuasion with the hammer and a drift to get them out. Once those ends were loose the shafts did come out fairly easy. Thanks again for the help.
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| Posted: 05-04-2010 03:40 pm |
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4th Post |
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JodyKerr Member 
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Hey Art, Been meaning to respond to your other email. As to the pedal box, I've BTDT, so if you need help disassembling it give me a holler and I'll show you. Jody
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| Posted: 05-09-2016 03:10 pm |
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5th Post |
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DonBurns Member
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I have my pedal box and booster out in order to get a rebuild on the booster. The pedal box seems to be fine, but ugly so I also plan to detail. Does anybody know what solvent might remove the soft gooey sealant, and what that sealant is for reassembly? Or do you just use standard silicone? Getting exciting - Been working on a complete restoration on 15800 for 2 1/2 years and almost done. Thanks.
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| Posted: 05-09-2016 07:19 pm |
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6th Post |
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Screenplay Member
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Only one of my cars had the gooey black sealant; I always figured a PO did that but perhaps not. I used either acetone or one of those "goo gone" solvents to clean it and up (I don't recall which), and latex gloves - I do remember it got on everything and was a real pain. Another car had what looked like plumber's putty between the pedal box and firewall. When I took it apart it was still pliable and looked to be holding up, so I reassembled with new putty in the same fashion. I'd like to report that it has been very effective at sealing out moisture (I'm assuming that is the primary purpose, and how much rain makes its way to the box?) but the car never sees rain so I can't say. I also haven't driven it much so I can't say how engine compartment heat has affected it either. The car I'm working on now will be a daily driver, so we'll see how putty works. Just my .02, perhaps others have better ideas? Congrats on being near done on 15800. Clinton Last edited on 05-09-2016 07:26 pm by Screenplay |
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| Posted: 05-10-2016 03:16 pm |
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7th Post |
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DonBurns Member
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Thanks Screenplay. Should have thought GooGone when I said gooey. I took the box to a shop for tank cleaning and media blast and have got the firewall mostly clean with a razor blade and will f try GooGone and steel wool. I may temporarily assemble with door foam strip so I can take apart again at the paint shop. While the engine was out I had towed the car to the paint shop to get the engine compartment done, but due to a leaking master cylinder the new paint got ruined. I think they will be able to do a better job with the pedal box out.
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| Posted: 05-10-2016 04:19 pm |
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8th Post |
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dwalls1 Member
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My pedal box seemed to have a gasket that was ruined when disassembled. I replaced it with one I cut from artist (craft) foam. Don Burns: Let me know how the work on the booster goes. I paid to have mine rebuilt, but I don't think it's working right at all.
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| Posted: 05-10-2016 11:04 pm |
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9th Post |
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answerman Member
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I used gray seam sealer, myself. It cleaned up pretty well with either acetone or mineral spirits, can't remember which.
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| Posted: 05-11-2016 12:11 am |
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10th Post |
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DonBurns Member
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One thing I noticed while doing disassembly of the pedal box. Started to try to get the shafts out one direction and met so much resistance that I tried the other way and came right out. I'm not sure if there is a taper or not, but I suggest trying gently in each direction before getting aggressive. If my booster seems to act right after rebuild I'll let everyone know the brake that did it.
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| Posted: 05-29-2016 09:32 pm |
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11th Post |
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DonBurns Member
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I got the rebuilt brake booster back a few weeks ago and no issues getting everything back together. I cleaned up the pedal box parts and had the housing media blasted so looks nice. I assembled to the firewall with some foam insulation as this is temporary, because some of my new engine compartment paint got removed due to leaking master cylinder, and I want to remove and have it repainted without getting spray on the pedal box / booster. The brake shop that did the booster rebuild was ABS Power Brake, Inc. 233 N. Lemon St. Orange, CA 92866 V. 714 771-6549 Cost was $125 I have a new problem. The brakes are staying on, until I apply the brakes which turns the brake lights off. I took out the switch, and it is closed when out and open when in. Isn't that backwards? Since it is mounted above the brake pedal, the pedal is pressing it in when released, and releases the switch when you apply the brakes. My switch opens when I press it in. Am I missing something or did the switch go bad while I had it out? Thanks
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| Posted: 05-29-2016 09:49 pm |
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12th Post |
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DonBurns Member
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Never mind about the brake lights. Not thinking clearly. Just needed some adjustment.
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| Posted: 05-30-2016 01:56 am |
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13th Post |
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DonBurns Member
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I may have spoken too soon. Took her out for a short drive. Seemed to not have much pep, but braking was easy. By the time I got home smoke was coming from front brakes. All four wheels were locked up. I think problem must be with brake booster, as I only replaced that since driving after new master cylinder, calipers and rear cylinders were replaced.
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| Posted: 08-27-2017 03:26 am |
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14th Post |
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DonBurns Member
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I noticed I never explained what happened here. May be useful to others as I can find no mention of this potential issue anywhere else. I had an original master cylinder with a very slight leak and also a vacuum boost that was not working. Replaced the master cylinder with a new TR unit that also leaked, and finally a second TR master that was good. Had the boost rebuilt as I reported above. The issue with the brakes locking up turned out to be due to the actuator on the boost unit very slightly pushing on the master cylinder. At the end of the booster actuator rod where it meets the master cylinder, there is a knurled adjustment. With the crud that builds up on it over time is nearly invisible, and I don't see it in the drawings in the manual. I think there is usually never a need to adjust this, since the rebuild of the booster is not supposed to change this relationship, and the dimensions of the master cylinder are supposed to be pretty precise. So once this was adjusted at the factory it is typically never touched again. There needs to be a slight space between the end of this actuator and the master cylinder. If not the boost will be activated, resulting in the brakes locking. For some reason, after my repairs mine needed adjustment to shorten the actuator. I see that Sept 2015 I thought I was almost done with this restoration. Well, I am getting closer.
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| Posted: 08-05-2022 08:28 pm |
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15th Post |
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Ed Weber Member
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Just wanted to say this was helpful getting my own pedalbox redone. The three shafts have a bit of knurling on one end that is pressed into the aluminum casting. The other end is just a tight fit. A little bit of pounding with a hammer and punch got them out without trouble. I've got a pic of the pedalbox with the pressed in end marked in red - it of course isn't the same for all three. Attachment: pedalbox.jpg (Downloaded 65 times)
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| Posted: 08-10-2024 05:31 pm |
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16th Post |
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vnavaret Member 
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DonBurns wrote: There needs to be a slight space between the end of this actuator and the master cylinder. If not the boost will be activated, resulting in the brakes locking. For some reason, after my repairs mine needed adjustment to shorten the actuator. Just wanted to add to this thread; I used a TR6 booster to replace my original that was seized and severlyly rusted from what I assume was a fluid leak in the distant past. A quick measurement showed that the TR6 booster has the tip of the push rod extending about 2mm further out than the original. Per this thread, I adjusted the push rod back 2mm so that it matched the original in terms of its relation to the MC. My MC is not original, as I have gone for the aftermarket equivalent that has a 1" bore instead of the factory 7/8" bore. It will be a while before I know if this is all going to work, but I wanted to mention the difference between the OEM servo push rod position and the TR6 servo push rod. It is apparently a very important difference that is very easy to miss. Vance Last edited on 08-10-2024 05:33 pm by vnavaret |
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