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| Left Turn Signal | Rate Topic |
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| Posted: 05-22-2024 04:40 pm |
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1st Post |
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bobburke Member
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Hello any help will be greatly appreciated. Both left and right turn signals work properly until the running/headlights are turned on. Then the left (drivers side) when turned on the bulbs go bright but do not flash. Also the dash indicator is a solid light. Additional information. From reading throughout the posts here I understand there is a lot going on in the turn signal switch. My horn work intermittently and when it does the handle gets warm if you press it repeatedly.
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| Posted: 05-23-2024 01:15 pm |
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2nd Post |
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noomg Member
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Bob, First thing check your fuses make sure they're either proper Brit fuses or US equivalent which is roughly half of the Brit rating, example Brit 15AMP = US 7AMP. Much easier to change a fuse than a wiring harness. If you don't have a wiring diagram get one. Delta sells two (early and late model) get them both, there's a lot of crossover and if you don't have the manual get one of those too. As to the problem it sounds like something may be grounding out or you've got some undesirable crossover between either worn wires or terminals making contact. The problem most likely lies with the turn signal/horn quadrant and possibly the ignition wiring. When you have crossover due to wear or incorrect installation you can send power to the wrong thing or more than one thing which is why you can see wacky things happening. The reason I asked about the fuses is before anything gets warm a fuse should blow otherwise you're risking a wiring harness meltdown. Is this a problem that came with the car or something that has recently appeared?
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| Posted: 05-23-2024 04:30 pm |
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3rd Post |
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bobburke Member
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Thanks Noomg, The problem came with the car. As far a a diag are they any different than this one I’ve been working with? https://www.jensenmuseum.org//wp-content/uploads/2018/03/Jensen-Healey-Wiring-Diagram.jpg I check the fuses first thing. Electrics I know electrical is like spaghetti.
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| Posted: 05-23-2024 05:26 pm |
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4th Post |
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noomg Member
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Bob, Yes, the W/Ds are all slightly different. One came with the manual and the other two came from Delta. You should be fine with just the one but I had to replace the entire W/H and at one point or another all three came in handy. Also not everything is fused (I don't know why) the console cigarette lighter for example is not, it has a small nylon washer inside to keep it from grounding in my case after 40 years it fell apart grounding the hot lead and melting my original W/H. If you want to use the lighter for plug ins then install an inline fuse otherwise I'd disconnect it and tape off the leads. As for the problem itself I'd pull the steering wheel and column cover so you can do an inspection if at that point it's not obvious what the problem is use a continuity tester (test light) to see what's going where and why.
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| Posted: 05-23-2024 05:55 pm |
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5th Post |
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bobburke Member
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Roger that. The lighter should be no problem from what I can tell it’s powered off the dash light circuit. Which someone cut out. I picked up a used panel dimmer switch for the next project…… i need to put the console sooner than later to check the E brake cable so I’ll check that at the same time. BTW what manual are you referring to? If it’s the Workshop Manual mine did not come with a W/D. If there is a different manual out there please let me know. Thanks again for the help. I keep posting on progress.
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| Posted: 05-23-2024 06:00 pm |
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6th Post |
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redracer Member
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Bob" if the lights on the turn signals are "lighted" there is no fuse problem. Turning on your headlights will draw about 10 amps. Your battery may be worn to the point of not being able to supply all the amps needed, as the turn signals(assuming original tungsten bulbs, and NOT LEDs) needs a certain amount of current through it to "bend" the bi-metallic strip open, which "turns" the bulb on/off. You might changing the flasher unit as they do fail(any cheap store bought one will work).
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| Posted: 05-23-2024 06:05 pm |
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7th Post |
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redracer Member
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noomg: the cigarette lighter was fused by the #3/bottom fuse in the fuse box(purple wires), and yes, was a constant source of "blowing" due to the fiber washer inside the lighter holder corroding and allowing the purple fused/hot wire to ground itself. Someone has bypassed this so as you stated, an inline fuse would be wise now. Also, the wiring diagram is actually for '73 and VERY early '74 cars; the later harnesses had the fuel pup fused which has a GREEN wire for the connection and not the WHITE wire(unfused, ignition switched) as shown in the diagram
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| Posted: 05-23-2024 06:35 pm |
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8th Post |
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bobburke Member
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Wow that would be an easy fix. I’ll turn them both on and check the voltage with the motor off. Shouldn’t the alternator pump out enough voltage/amps to make it work if the motor is running? Thanks for the help!
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| Posted: 05-23-2024 06:37 pm |
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9th Post |
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bobburke Member
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I’ll stick a multimeter on the lighter socket to see if there is any juice going to it. Better safe than burned up!
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| Posted: 05-23-2024 07:01 pm |
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10th Post |
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bobburke Member
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Checked the lighter no voltage. Also pulled the ashtray both leads are disconnected zero voltage there also.
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| Posted: 05-23-2024 07:07 pm |
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11th Post |
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redracer Member
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The cigarette lighter should have a constant 12V on the purple wire, assuming someone didn't redo the wiring. The white with red stripe is for the light bulb there (LIGHT switch must be on) and of course the black wire is for the ground. Again, the bottom fuse is for all the "purple" wires such as the lighter and clock. Yes, the alternator(assuming it's working) should be enough to keep all the blinkers going, so again, the flasher unit itself may be the most likely culprit
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| Posted: 05-23-2024 07:13 pm |
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12th Post |
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bobburke Member
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Check the battery voltage it was down to 10.5. Put my charger on it 13.5. Will see if it will take and keep the charge. Did check to see if the blinker worked with the headlights on. Nope. Also I was sure the running lights were working now the front does not. I noticed that the right side signal light has a ground wire and the left does not. Is this the same on all?
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| Posted: 05-23-2024 07:21 pm |
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13th Post |
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bobburke Member
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Got it wrong wire. But as I said with the ignition on I checked to lighter socket no voltage present. Also the clock wiring is gone also. I’ll pull the purple wire fuse for now.
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| Posted: 05-24-2024 03:15 pm |
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14th Post |
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noomg Member
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Bruce, From Bob's original post my concern was that something was getting hot which suggests something is either not fused or incorrectly fused. Since this is how Bob got the car who knows what the PO did he may not have caused this problem but he certainly didn't fix it. This is why I recommended he had the correct fusing in place before proceeding with anything else. When I got my J/H back in the '90s the wiring while functional was a mess. The fusebox was gone leaving only a hole in the firewall, behind the firewall was a jumble of aftermarket wiring and inline fuses making it very difficult to determine what was protected and what wasn't. Also the fuses were US and too big for the application. When the lighter shorted and melted the W/H none of the fuses blew! I'll take your word that the lighter was originally fused to fuse #3 on the fusebox but since all that was gone on my car I had no way of knowing if it was connected to a fuse to big or if it was connected to a fuse at all. I guess maybe that's why I'm a bit paranoid when it comes to getting the proper fuses in place.
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| Posted: 05-24-2024 06:16 pm |
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15th Post |
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bobburke Member
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I pulled the bottom (purple wire) fuse. It was a live circuit. All the fuses look to be original the pic is of the fuse I pulled. What is strange all the fuses above this one are jumpered together. Which does not seem right.
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| Posted: 05-24-2024 11:13 pm |
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16th Post |
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noomg Member
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Bob, Are you saying the top two fuses (#1 & #2) have been bypassed? If that's the case the first thing you should do is sever those connections then check to see if those fuses are good. The only reason I can see for doing that is to bypass a blown fuse, not a smart thing to do but it does restore power to the car but with no fused protection.
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| Posted: 05-25-2024 06:21 pm |
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17th Post |
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bobburke Member
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The top 3 fuses are not jumpered across but in series on each side of the fuse box. Tried to send photo but I can’t get any of my devices to go below 1.4MB. Apple. All fuses are good and are Lucus with the English and US amp rating on them.
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| Posted: 05-25-2024 06:54 pm |
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18th Post |
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bobburke Member
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Photo of fuse box Attachment: IMG_0103.jpeg (Downloaded 30 times)
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| Posted: 05-26-2024 03:57 pm |
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19th Post |
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noomg Member
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Bob, Wow! I'm not sure what you've got going on there. It's obviously not an original fusebox or for that matter the connectors and wiring. I've no idea what your PO was thinking when he cobbled this together, fuses are suppose to isolate systems not combine them. Is that black thing in #4 spot a fuse of some kind or a solid link between the poles? You need to find out what's going on with this box. First thing I'd do is pull that jumper wire thing and see if it has any effect on the car. Right now your W/D is worthless so I'd disconnect the battery, unscrew the fusebox and see if you can pull it out far enough so you can see what those non-stock wires are connected to, at some point they've got to be connected to the original W/H. This is the point where your W/D will come into play, you should be able to see what they're connected to and what purpose they serve. It might also give some insight as to what the PO was thinking when he did this. I know the thread started as a turn signal problem but getting this wiring squared away takes priority over that and who knows once the wiring is correctly done it may also solve the original problems.
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| Posted: 05-26-2024 04:22 pm |
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20th Post |
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bobburke Member
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Roger that. The #4 spot is where the purple wire is connected. That why the 50/25 amp fuse was pulled.
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