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| Moderated by: Greg Fletcher | Page:   1 2 |
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| Main Wiring Harness Replacement | Rate Topic |
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| Posted: 10-30-2019 05:32 pm |
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21st Post |
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noomg Member
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I'm always interested in everyone's suggestions, sometimes it avoids having to reinvent the wheel.
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| Posted: 11-03-2019 03:21 pm |
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22nd Post |
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noomg Member
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I think I've found the cause of the short in the cigar lighter which ended up melting the original W/H. While fooling around with the lighter I noticed the little brass nut and washer were loose, it's where the power wire plugs to the lighter. When I tested the lighter it shorted and the wires got very hot. I think originally there was a insulating washer (probably bakealite)that disintegrated and fell away which allowed the short. I installed a rubber washer and the lighter seems to be working now. While I'm sure nobody uses the lighter for it's originally intended purpose, if you use it as an accessory power source you may want to check the condition of that insulating washer.
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| Posted: 11-03-2019 05:32 pm |
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23rd Post |
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redracer Member
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you're correct; it does need to be isolated from the ground. If you need another one, I have plenty bruce
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| Posted: 11-04-2019 04:14 pm |
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24th Post |
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noomg Member
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Thanks Bruce, I was able to find a suitable replacement from my parts bins. I have found some interesting things while pouring over the various W/Ds, the mysterious green wire I've mentioned previous was apparently intended for an overdrive, who knew. On the '73 W/D there is a dual headlight relay(NADA), not sure what the purpose of that was. This project has been educational to say the least.
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| Posted: 11-04-2019 04:53 pm |
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25th Post |
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redracer Member
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That MAY be for the European cars where they needed a dimmer relay for the tail lights, as they felt they were too bright for the driver behind them. One of the buyouts I made from the early '90s had a "boatload" of these dimmer relays in them. Again, not sure if that is what you may have. bruce
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| Posted: 11-04-2019 05:55 pm |
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26th Post |
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noomg Member
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I don't have one, I just saw it on the '73 W/D along with some other head scratchers, like the prewired green wire for an overdrive, maybe something that was being considered for the 4sp considering Jensen's predecessor had an overdrive. By using a combination of all three W/Ds I should be able to get the car back to where it was before the big meltdown.
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| Posted: 11-06-2019 03:07 pm |
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27th Post |
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noomg Member
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Well I've finally reached the point where the W/H is fully installed and just about everything is hooked up and I'm ready to power up the car. I find myself reluctant however to make that final connection(battery)since the last time I did this the W/H melted down. While I believe I have found and remedied the cause of the meltdown, the missing cigar lighter insulator and the incorrect fuse, connecting the battery is going to be a bit of a white knuckler.
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| Posted: 11-07-2019 01:16 am |
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28th Post |
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Tom Bradley Member
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Connect it at first with an ammeter between the batter and the harness? Clip one end to the battery cable and use a probe to the battery itself. If there is a spark or the ammeter pegs you should be able to jerk it away before and damage is done. You could also ohmmeter the battery cable to GND to see if the resistance is excessively low.
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| Posted: 11-07-2019 07:54 pm |
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29th Post |
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noomg Member
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Well, I connected the battery and the world didn't end. I did some initial tests, fuse box, cigar lighter, horns everything seemed normal. Next I keyed the ignition, the fuel pump started and the radio lead lighted the test bulb. At this point I'm ready to start final reassembly, dash, instrument cluster, console, radio, switches, etc. I'll be testing as I go.
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| Posted: 11-12-2019 12:52 am |
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30th Post |
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noomg Member
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This project is now done. I got everything back together and hooked up, there where naturally a few glitches; a brake light, a running light, a couple of instrument lights but I finally got things squared away. I took 19661 out for a spin, it ran great, it's nice to have it back on the road. Now on to the seat recover.
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| Posted: 02-28-2020 04:43 pm |
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31st Post |
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noomg Member
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Just an update, after a few months with the new W/H the car is still running great. There is one difference however, with the old W/H the tach had a tendency cutout from time to time, but now that the W/H has been replaced that problem seems to be solved, I have no idea why.
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| Posted: 02-29-2020 02:59 pm |
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32nd Post |
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redracer Member
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Most likely a ground connection; many times on other's cars(as well as my own) I have had to remove the pin connectors and clean each one and reinsert. The taillights(all 3--the running.stop, the backup, and the turn)should have had the ground inside the bulb housing soldered to the copper tab. I strongly recommend doing this: This is fairly easy to do;a coarse fiberglass bristle brush (I have posted this before so look it up if you wish) to clean the interface between the copper ground tab and the round outer face will give a nice soldering joint. best wishes, bruce
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