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> Jensen Healey & Jensen GT Tech > Engine & Transmission > new photos of the Shark and its new engine |
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> Jensen Healey & Jensen GT Tech > Engine & Transmission > new photos of the Shark and its new engine |
| Moderated by: Greg Fletcher |
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| new photos of the Shark and its new engine | Rating: 
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| Posted: 11-30-2005 09:28 am |
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1st Post |
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Harkes Member 
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Hi everyone, for the once interested i have added new photos of the Shark Rebuild with its new engine, toyota supra gearbox, aluminium fuel tank etc. go to: http://jhppg.com/gallery/album49
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| Posted: 11-30-2005 01:48 pm |
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2nd Post |
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jdean Member
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Just beautiful. I noticed that you say that you have foam under the tank brackets. Wasn't this one of the areas of concern for condensate build up and a potential rust forming area? I see that you have POR 15 there, but an ounce of prevention and all... Especially since you have so much work invested already.
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| Posted: 11-30-2005 02:29 pm |
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3rd Post |
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Harkes Member
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i agree foam might not be the best idea under the brackets. The brackets themselves have been painted with POR 15, the aluminium tank needs no further protection as long as won't come in contact with metal which is why i thought foam with a sticking back would work. however they do protect the aluminium tank from scratching and it is not metal to aluminium. i might change it for rubber later on. New trunk carpet is the next and last bit as for the trunk.. thanks erik
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| Posted: 11-30-2005 05:01 pm |
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4th Post |
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Greg Fletcher Administrator 
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Looking good Erik! If you can control the moisture into the trunk, I don't think your foam will be anything to worry about. Sounds odd, but an easy and effective mod if you pull the fuel tank again: find an old electrical cord and cut off the ends, coil the cord front to back where the tank goes using some silicon sealer to hold in place. Once the tank is strapped back in, the cord underneath provides the perfect space, cushioning and air ventilation needed to make sure that any trapped water or condensation build up will dry up prompty and save your tank from unnecessary corrosion.
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| Posted: 11-30-2005 07:50 pm |
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5th Post |
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Harkes Member
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Thanks Greg. i never had any trouble with the trunk getting moisty, but i will definitely check it regularly. My old fuel tank wasn't rusted underneath the brackets that hold the tank, it was just the bottom of the tank that was totally gone. the electrical cord is a novalty for me but i'll surely try it if the foam doesn't work. With regards to the gearbox conversion: the Lotus Excel supra W58 gearbox with the Lotus Excell bellhousing is a great and less costly option. No..no hydraulics..i want to keep the JH as original as i can. So convert the Lotus Excell gbox/bellhousing to mechanical clutch cable action. I'll describe what needs to be done and the parts you need or don't need as good as i can and post pictures on the JHPPG.com the day the Shark roars again is coming closer and closer! erik
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| Posted: 11-30-2005 09:07 pm |
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6th Post |
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SportsRodder Member
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A better way to keep moisture out of the trunk and tank area is to drill a 1/4" hole between the gas filler depression and the trunk seal channel and solder, braze or epoxy a short length of 1/4" copper tube there so water which collects in the filler depression does not seep into the trunk. Instead it will drain out the rear of the car. Most tank rust problems are due to water saturating the mat under the tank and slowly or never drying out. Last edited on 11-30-2005 09:08 pm by SportsRodder |
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| Posted: 12-01-2005 05:11 am |
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7th Post |
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Esprit2 Member
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Regular foam like carpet padding isn't a good choice for under the tank since it's porous... a sponge. It will absorb and hold moisture against the metal tank. If you can blow through it, don't use it. Use a closed cell foam like ethylene (EthaFoam is one brand) or a closed cell urethane. I like the ethylene foam since it's inert and won't react long term with anything that's likely to contact it in a car. Good luck, Tim
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| Posted: 12-01-2005 06:24 am |
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8th Post |
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Mark Rosenbaum Member 
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What I used on my car was a ribbed stair tread runner, made from a rubber-like material that was found by test to resist gasoline and other common solvents. I cut this into strips which were then attached using contact cement to the fuel tank on the underside and in the areas where the retaining straps would make contact. The ribs are sufficiently stiff that an air space is present even when the tank is full. Cost was very low, IIRC about US $1.
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| Posted: 12-01-2005 10:04 am |
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9th Post |
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Harkes Member
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i didn't use foam underneath or behind the tank, only under the brackets that hold the tank in place. I used sound deadening material underneath and behind, but not in one large piece. I cut out several pieces and left 2/3 cm wide opening between them so there is space to breath. The sound deadening stuff won't soak up moisture. The foam underneath the brackets might. The idea of drilling a hole south of the filler neck is a good idea. When you wash your car or when it rains there is alway water at the filler neck that can't go anywhere. i'll have a look at that. thank all, Erik, your comments are much appreciated.
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| Posted: 12-01-2005 06:31 pm |
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10th Post |
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Joel Member
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For rubber products check out McMaster Carr (http://www.mcmaster.com/). I have bought several different rubber products from them over the years for use in repairing my sailboat. They have excellent descriptions of what's available. It can be a little intimidating weeding thru all the descriptions but they have everything you could possibly need. No affilliation - blah, blah, blah. I plan to buy some solid rubber either in strips - or cut into strips to insulate my tank when I finally decide to install it. . .
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