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| Removal of oil pump pulley | Rate Topic |
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| Posted: 01-04-2025 12:35 am |
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1st Post |
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vnavaret Member 
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Lads: Looking for a little advice here. See item 13 in the attached drawing for the oil pump drive. The Martin Robey drawing is slightly different than my engine. I have a countersunk hex socket screw instead of the hex cap screw shown in the drawing. I cannot get the darn thing loose. To date I have heated it with MAPP gas, quenched it in oil, tapped on it with a hammer (gently!) pried, used a hex key and used many colorful metaphors. It won't budge. At the moment it is soaking in liquid wrench. Any tricks out there for loosening it? I am thinking I need to get a hex key socket for my 3/8" ratchet rather than using a regular hex key. I have broken keys in the past straining to get things loose, and I feel I am close to breaking my current key. Let me know of any tricks. Next I will try an appropriate key on my ratchet, but I am skeptical even that will not be enough. Vance Attachment: Screenshot 2025-01-03 172131.jpg (Downloaded 36 times) Last edited on 01-04-2025 12:38 am by vnavaret |
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| Posted: 01-04-2025 11:39 am |
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2nd Post |
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Jh092 Member
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And that’s why you should only use a small dab of Loctite during assembly
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| Posted: 01-04-2025 06:55 pm |
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3rd Post |
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vnavaret Member
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Jh092 wrote: And that’s why you should only use a small dab of Loctite during assembly Not to be patronizing, but "I told you so" doesn't help very much. =:-o In this case I can plead "'Twas not I, good sir" as I did not install the accursed thing. 'Tis the spawn of the devil, say I. Egads, time to call an exorcist. Vance Last edited on 01-04-2025 06:57 pm by vnavaret |
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| Posted: 01-04-2025 11:27 pm |
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4th Post |
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vnavaret Member
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Well... Argh! A hex key socket on my ratchet simply rounded out the hole in the center of the socket screw. A pipe wrench on the washer accomplished nothing. Wouldn't budge. Finally, my lizard brain instincts took over, causing my cortex to shrivel up to the size of a raisin. The higher level thought processes ceased, to be replaced by the panted words "Must...destroy...evil...bolt." I took out the angle grinder and ground off the head until the washer fell off. What was left of the socket screw backed out with finger pressure. Now on to the next fastener that will snap, gall, strip or refuse to come loose. Why I abuse myself this way is a mystery. Vance Last edited on 01-04-2025 11:28 pm by vnavaret |
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| Posted: 01-04-2025 11:38 pm |
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5th Post |
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noomg Member
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Vance, Not that it's of any consequence now but my later model block also uses the same hex head fastener, looks like it was used instead of a standard bolt for fan belt clearance.
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| Posted: 01-05-2025 04:56 pm |
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6th Post |
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vnavaret Member
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nomg: Good to know, guess I will not be using a cap screw to replace it. Vance Last edited on 01-05-2025 04:56 pm by vnavaret |
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| Posted: 05-09-2025 10:15 pm |
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7th Post |
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Esprit2 Member
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When you tighten the cam pulley's retaining bolts, the pulley is tightly clamped between the bolt & washer and the shoulder on the end of the camshaft. It gets 'TIGHT', and it's not going anywhere. On the other hand, the Auxiliary pulley butts up against a weenie little wire circlip in a groove around the end of the auxiliary pulley. As you tighten the retaining bolt, the pulley is driven back and just over-rides the circlip, and you can NOT achieve a secure, retaining fit. No way! The 4-cyl engine only fires twice per revolution, and the crank feeds those jerks into the timing belt... it's "NOT" smooth power. Since the wire circlip cannot get a good grip on the pulley, the pulley jerks back and forth (side to side) on the end of the auxiliary pulley. Then the poor little Woodruff Key in the bore, between the shaft & pulley, gets hammered back and forth. Or, more to the point, it hammers back & forth in the keyway slot in the "aluminum" pulleys internal keyway. The keyway is only aluminum, and it takes a hell of a beating. Over time, the Woodruff key hammer's a wide impression of itself into the bore of the pulley. Instead of a straight, axial slot, the center starts to step wide to the side, and the keyway starts to look more like a "T". The T's top crossbar being the original, straight slot, and the T's vertical leg is what the Woodruff key is hammering to the side... ie, the T's WIDE vertical leg gets longer and longer. Tightening the retaining bolt doesn't help, since the pulley just over-rides that weenie little wire circlip. "Tighten" as much as you want, the pulley doesn't get clamped any tighter. As the hammered groove wears longer and longer, the pulley and shaft move back & forth more & more relative to each other, The 'T' groove gets longer, and the distributor/ Ignition Timing just goes nutz. That's what I thought I was fighting. When I tried to remove the aux pulley, it was rotated a little bit relative to the aux shaft, and the shaft & pulley keyways did not align. The Woodruff key was offset into the T-groove's now long side leg, and trapped. I could NOT pull the pulley off the shaft. Until I got lucky, accidently rotated the pulley relative to the shaft until the two axial keyways aligned, and the pulley came off in my hand. I looked into the bore, and couldn't believe what I saw... a 'T' slot with a 1/2" long center 'T' leg... more than deep enough to catch & trap the pulley on the Woodruff key. Okay, I needed a new pulley. But I also needed a way to keep the pulley & shaft from working against one another to wear another wide internal slot. My solution was to apply Loctite 242 (Blue) Threadlocker on the end of the shaft and in the bore. Just a thin film, and staying away from the key & keyway. The 242 (Blue) is a "weak" Threadlocker, and won't require a lot of brute force to remove it the next time, but it will hold the pulley & shaft together such that they don't move and wear another 'T' leg in the soft aluminum pulley's bore. Torque tighten to spec, and give the Loctite 24 hours to cure. Re-install teh timing belt, and re-set the ignition timing. The next time the pulley has to come off (for whatever reason), you will need a small 3-jaw puller and a heat source... a heat gun or propane torch. Flip the puller's jaws so the hooks on their ends point inward, toward the center. Remove the pulley's retaining bolt, then remove the washer. Re-install the bolt to give the puller's jack-screw something to push against (ie, the head of the bolt). The rubber lip seal where the aux shaft disappears into the housing is not 'heat safe'. So wrap a wet rag around the bit of aux shaft that is visible between the lip seal and the back side of the aux pulley. Now apply heat directly to the pulley's hub, from behind, aimed forward. Do not direct heat back at the aux housing or lip seal, even with the wet rag present. Work the heat from behind the pulley, aimed forward and down at the hub. Watch the joint/line between the hub and shaft. When you see a little fluid bubbling in the line, between the pulley hub and shaft, start cranking on the puller. The pulley should come off without a big fight. Clean off all Loctite residue before re-installing the pulley with fresh Loctite. Regards, Tim Engel
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