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| Lubrication system diagram | Rate Topic |
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| Posted: 09-22-2019 07:41 pm |
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1st Post |
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Steve Duncan Member
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Does anyone have a diagram of the engine's lubrication system?
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| Posted: 09-23-2019 02:57 am |
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2nd Post |
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Esprit2 Member
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Here is the overall Lubrication Schematic. Regards, Tim Engel Attachment: 9XX Oil System Flow Diagram - 97kb.jpg (Downloaded 185 times)
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| Posted: 09-23-2019 02:59 am |
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3rd Post |
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Esprit2 Member
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And here's a closer look at the Oil Pump Flow Schematic. Both illustrations are from Lotus manuals, but also apply to Jensen-Healey. Regards, Tim Engel Attachment: 9XX Oil System Pump Flow Diagram.jpg (Downloaded 181 times) Last edited on 09-23-2019 03:03 am by Esprit2 |
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| Posted: 09-23-2019 03:07 am |
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4th Post |
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Esprit2 Member
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Oil Pump and Auxiliary Housing Exploded Parts Drawing. This drawing is for the 910S Turbo engine, but it's the same with the exception that the ChargeCooler (intercooler) coolant pump goes where the distributor used to be. The ignition was distributorless/ crank-triggered. Regards, Tim Engel Attachment: 9XX Oil Pump Parts Exploded Diagram.jpg (Downloaded 181 times) Last edited on 04-14-2020 05:29 pm by Esprit2 |
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| Posted: 09-23-2019 03:09 am |
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5th Post |
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Esprit2 Member
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Oil Pump Exploded Parts Drawing. Regards, Tim Engel Attachment: 9XX Lubrication - Oil Pump, Pres Relief Valve - Parts, Exploded Drwg - All 9XX.jpg (Downloaded 180 times) Last edited on 09-23-2019 03:32 am by Esprit2 |
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| Posted: 09-23-2019 03:19 am |
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6th Post |
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Esprit2 Member
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Location of the Air Bleed Hole in the Auxiliary Housing. It's important to reducing the amount of time required for oil pressure to build-up during an engine start. If your engine takes an inordinate amount of time to build pressure, then check this hole and make certain it hasn't become plugged by sludge. Very early 907s didn't have an Air Bleed Hole... it was added as a running change. If yours escaped the TSB update, then this is where to drill a 1.4 mm (0.55") diameter hole. Do so with the Auxiliary Housing off the engine, and completely flush any metal chips from the housing prior to re-installing it. Regards, Tim Engel Attachment: 907 Oil Pump, Aux Housing Mod - Air Bleed Hole Location - illustration.jpg (Downloaded 178 times) Last edited on 04-14-2020 05:31 pm by Esprit2 |
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| Posted: 09-23-2019 03:20 am |
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7th Post |
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Esprit2 Member
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And in real life... Regards, Tim Engel Attachment: 907 Oil Pump, Aux Housing Mod - Air Bleed Hole Location - photo.jpg (Downloaded 178 times)
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| Posted: 09-23-2019 03:30 am |
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8th Post |
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Esprit2 Member
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Maybe a little out of sequence, but finally, here's the Oil Pressure Relief Valve components. Regards, Tim Engel Attachment: 9XX Lubrication - Oil Pump, Pres Relief Valve - Parts, Lotus X-Sect Drwg 4 - Color.jpg (Downloaded 176 times) Last edited on 09-23-2019 03:33 am by Esprit2 |
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| Posted: 09-23-2019 05:48 am |
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9th Post |
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Steve Duncan Member
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Exactly what I was seeking. Thank you very much.
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| Posted: 09-24-2019 04:30 pm |
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10th Post |
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redracer Member
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TIM: once again, thanks for taking the time to post the pix: I always wondered why they didn't run the pick-up tube oil through the filter BEFORE sending it out to the cooler? Many have added or replace the filter with the add-on over were the original air filter went, a much better configuration. Any thoughts? bruce
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| Posted: 09-25-2019 03:57 pm |
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11th Post |
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Esprit2 Member
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Bruce, I think, but don't 'know'... that the oil flow was designed to work correctly with just the pump... no oil cooler. Then, when an oil cooler sandwich plate is added in, the flow becomes oil cooler first, then filter. I don't think that was a plan as much as a result of adding a cooler after the engine was designed. I do like a conversion to a vertical filter orientation... regardless of where it is placed. That makes filter access easier from below the car (especially with a K&N filter with the 'hex nut' feature on its end), and minimizes the oil spill mess whenever the used filter is removed. The easiest approach involves using a Ford 90 degree adaptor on the engine. I believe Ford used more than one 90 degree adaptor, but I know that the one from a 1994 4.0L V-6 SUV engine, or from a Ford Ranger works). Adapters can be found in the $20 to $40 range on e-Bay or junk yards. Cast in markings on the adaptor: Ford C9J1A 89TM6884AA Summit Racing lists a 'Ford' 90 degree adaptor with 3/4-16 threads, but it looks a little different. I've not tried it, but I see no reason why it shouldn't work. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/FMS-M-6880-A50/ The aftermarket remote filter kits also work well, if there's enough room somewhere in the engine bay to place one. Regardless of what is used, installation will require some creativity and mechanical skill... or pay a pro to do it. Regards, Tim Engel
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| Posted: 04-14-2020 03:49 pm |
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12th Post |
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Matthew10571 Member
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Tim: I have 2 aux. housing and neither of them have this hole drilled. Do I drill it through the housing as it is showed, into the big open area on the other side. Does it effect oil pressure in general besides quicker oil pickup? Last edited on 04-14-2020 03:50 pm by Matthew10571 |
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| Posted: 04-14-2020 05:18 pm |
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13th Post |
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Esprit2 Member
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Yes, drill through. A shallow, blind hole that goes nowhere would do nothing. If the oil pump and the rest of the system is in good working condition, including the correct oil viscosity choice, then the small hole won't have a significant negative effect on either pressure or flow rate. But the hole will help to shorten the time required to build oil pressure during engine start-up. Regards, Tim Engel
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| Posted: 04-14-2020 05:35 pm |
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14th Post |
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Matthew10571 Member
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I am using a 20w-50 motorcycle type oil with zinc.
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| Posted: 04-14-2020 06:34 pm |
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15th Post |
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SimonD Member
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Just got her out of her winter slumber and have noticed that the oil pump pulley has moved back against the oil pump housing. Would anyone one know why this might be, and how I should rectify it? Attachment: 1.jpg (Downloaded 105 times)
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| Posted: 04-15-2020 05:27 am |
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16th Post |
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discogodfather Member 
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SimonD wrote:Just got her out of her winter slumber and have noticed that the oil pump pulley has moved back against the oil pump housing. Would anyone one know why this might be, and how I should rectify it? It could be related to your tensioner setup. Does it have the older curved style pulley (with twin bearings) or a newer flat design? They typically go bad in the bearings and also the pulley can wear so out of true it causes issues. Verifying correct belt tension is a good idea as well. Even after converting to a newer style my setup pushes the belt in that exact same location towards the opposite direction. It's no big deal as long as it doesn't come off the wheel at all and has solid engagement. How does the belt track on your cam pulleys? Is the dizzy wheel rubbing against the housing? Last edited on 04-15-2020 05:30 am by discogodfather |
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| Posted: 04-15-2020 05:33 am |
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17th Post |
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discogodfather Member
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I thought this might be a good thread to ask- been thinking about adding an accusump (oil accumulator). Most of the literature on these says to put it on the return line from oil cooler (with a check valve highly recommended). Seems like this would be pushing oil into the filter, then into the engine. Is this the best location? I also see how the oil pressure sender "plate" might be a good location, although it's a small opening. That hits the mains directly through the main oil galley correct?
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| Posted: 04-15-2020 03:19 pm |
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18th Post |
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redracer Member
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Likely the sprocket does NOT have the chamfer on the back to "capure" the steel ring. Aftermarket cam sprockets had been made WITHOUT this chamfer, so as you tightened the allen bolt, the sprocket would push the steel ring out of its groove. You will need to remove the belt and sprocket(use a gear puller; don't Bang on it with a hammer). If it does not have achmfer, or much of one to "capture" the steel ring, have it machined to do so. bruce
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| Posted: 04-20-2020 05:41 pm |
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19th Post |
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Esprit2 Member
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The auxiliary pulley should be installed with Loctite to secure it. The little wire circlip that serves as an abutment for the pulley is not very strong, and is easily overcome. Torquing the pulley's retaining bolt is like trying to clamp something securely against a marshmallow. Even if you do manage to tighten the pulley in place, you can't count on it remaining secure long term. A little medium strength blue Threadlocker will suffice. Rub a little on the shaft, avoiding the keyway, and wipe most off. Leave just a little to ensure that the surface is fully wetted out/ rubbed in... ie, it's 'primed'. Then apply a more liberal smear of Loctite in the pulley bore, again avoiding the keyway. This way, when the pulley is pushed on, the majority of the excess Loctite will be pushed out the front of the bore where it can be easily wiped off (don't let any get into the bolt hole). The little bit that does ooze out on the back side of the pulley should also be thoroughly wiped off. What you DO NOT WANT is any excess Loctite migrating to the lip seal that is right behind the pulley, where the shaft enters the auxiliary housing. Next time the pulley comes off, heat will be required to kill the Loctite. In order to protect the lip seal from torch flame or heat gun, first wrap a wet rag around the shaft between the pulley and seal, covering the face of the seal. Then apply the torch/ heat gun from behind the pulley, aiming forward at the hub. All excess flame/ heat blast goes forward, NOT back at the seal. Getting back to the job on hand... Install a small (3") 3-jaw puller on the pulley. Have the jaws installed so the hooks face inward. Slip the jaws through the 'spoke holes' and directly grab the hub. Obviously, on older pulleys with solid center webs, you'll have no choice other than to grab the outside rim. But the pulley is aluminum, and pulling too hard on the rim can result in the spokes or center web cracking/ breaking. If your pulley has spoke holes, take advantage of the opportunity to pull directly on the hub. DO NOT run the puller's jack-screw directly against the end of the auxiliary shaft, or you risk messing up the threaded hole, and you'll never get the bolt started again. After removing the large, thick washer, either replace the bolt, or place a "little smaller than shaft-sized", 1/4" drive socket between the end of the shaft and the jack-screw... ie, give the jack-screw something other than the shaft to bear against. Start by cranking the puller up fairly tight, but not in 'full puller mode'... don't go all "Mongo" on it. Then apply heat to the hub. As it gets hot (~235 F) watch the joint line between the shaft and pulley bore. When you see a little bubbling there, the Loctite is soft/ boiling, so you can get serious with the puller. The two cam sprockets and the crank sprocket should be installed with Anti-Seize in their bores, NOT Loctite. They have large shoulders to bear against, so properly torqued, they won't loosen up. Only the auxiliary pulley gets blue, medium strength Loctite. Define "Mongo". In the movie "Blazing Saddles", Mongo was the big dumb guy (played by Alex Karras) who dropped a horse with one punch. "Mongo strong like bull !!". Mongo also not too bright. Don't go all Mongo with the puller on the aluminum sprocket. Regards, Tim Engel Last edited on 04-20-2020 08:16 pm by Esprit2 |
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| Posted: 04-20-2020 06:03 pm |
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20th Post |
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Esprit2 Member
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SimonD wrote:Just got her out of her winter slumber and have noticed that the oil pump pulley has moved back against the oil pump housing.Carefully inspect the lip seal that is flush with the end of the auxiliary housing. If the pulley has been rubbing against it, it may very well be damaged. Regards, Tim Engel
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