| ||||
Moderated by: Greg Fletcher | Page: 1 2 3 4 |
|
19661 paint and bodywork | Rate Topic |
Author | Post |
---|
Posted: 08-18-2019 10:12 pm |
|
41st Post |
Dakota123 Member
|
That well and truly sucks. At least the whole thing didn’t go up in flames.
|
||||||||||||||
|
Posted: 08-19-2019 03:41 pm |
|
42nd Post |
redracer Member
|
just read: the lighter(a common item that gets shorted) is fused by the 3rd/bottom fuse, and should NOT have melted the main harness. A common problem on the earlier J-Hs(not sure what # they changed) was for the rear side light/fender markers top get shorted. The English cars did not have rear side lights and as somewhat of an after-thought, they ran the wires to them around the "U" shaped inner small piece and the fender; eventually, the foam on this piece would wear away and the "hot" wire(UNFUSED!!) would ground out and melt the harness all the way to the footwell where the extra bundled wires acted as a heat sink. The later harnesses(again, not sure what chassis #) had a 4th pig tail fuse below the 3 fuse panel for this reason. I drilled a small hole in the little piece with the foam and put a rubber grommet in, as it should have been done at the factory. Have plenty of good used harnesses if you need one best wishes, bruce
|
|||||||||||||
|
Posted: 08-19-2019 05:09 pm |
|
43rd Post |
noomg Member
|
Bruce, You're right, the lighter short shouldn't have melted the main harness under normal circumstances and that #3 fuse should have protected it. Unfortunately when I first got my J-H in '93 not only was there no #3 fuse, there was no fuse box just a hole in the firewall where the fuse box used to be. I probably should have done something about it back then with no internet and almost no information about it in the workshop manual I wasn't even sure what I was looking for. At the time the electrics seemed to be functioning as was and there were a lot of other things that needed immediate attention(brakes, bearings, tires, etc.) Thanks for the info, I'll know more once I get the rest of the console apart. If I do need a new harness what are you selling them for?
|
||||||||||||||
|
Posted: 08-19-2019 05:38 pm |
|
44th Post |
redracer Member
|
As previously stated, I only have USED ones(in good shape). You can have one for $100(+ $14 USPS flat rate ship). I do recommend strongly that you clean all the contacts with the coarsest fiberglass brush possible (https://www.eraser.com/products/fiberglass-brushes-erasers/) These brushes(not sure if sold on AMAZON?) are excellent for cleaning surfaces before soldering.
|
|||||||||||||
|
Posted: 08-31-2019 06:04 pm |
|
45th Post |
noomg Member
|
Update on my interior restoration which has morphed into an electrical fix. After pulling the console(under the dash)to get access it looks like the damage is limited to the harness on the right side of the console and down into the console. Bruce you were right about the #3 fuse, it blew when the short happened(that's how I found it)but I don't know why it didn't protect the circuit, maybe someone inadvertently bypassed the fuse at some point in the past. I think the harness can be repaired, I'll give it a shot first to see if it's possible to avoid replacing the whole harness, a much bigger and more expensive job.
|
||||||||||||||
|
Posted: 08-31-2019 06:17 pm |
|
46th Post |
noomg Member
|
Also, I've been in contact with Rejen and they've quoted me some prices and are sending samples. I think this is the way I'm going to go. For those of you who maybe interested prices are as follows; 6pc. leather seat covers $845 Seat foam 2backs 2bottoms $389 Seat webbing for 2 seats $184 Total $1418
|
|||||||||||||
|
Posted: 09-01-2019 03:28 am |
|
47th Post |
Dakota123 Member
|
BTW, haven’t installed my Regen covers yet (maybe this weekend), but they look first-rate. Only took a couple of weeks to be produced to order and shipped.
|
||||||||||||||
|
Posted: 09-01-2019 04:13 pm |
|
48th Post |
noomg Member
|
Dakota, Thanks for the update, let us know how it goes, pictures if possible would also be nice. Meanwhile I'll await the samples from Rejen while I'm trying to straighten out my electrical miseries.
|
|||||||||||||
|
Posted: 09-01-2019 10:53 pm |
|
49th Post |
Dakota123 Member
|
Too darn hot this weekend here outside of Denver, unfortunately; even the garage is sweltering, and I really want this to go right (new carpet I’ve had for 6 or 7 years as well). Supposed to start cooling off, so hopefully next weekend. Really good to know about the side marker issue! Mike
|
||||||||||||||
|
Posted: 09-04-2019 04:18 pm |
|
50th Post |
noomg Member
|
Dakota, Once you get your carpeting installed you'll kick yourself for putting it off for so long. After driving my JH around for 25 years with no carpeting it was like driving around on a tractor, with the install of the new carpeting and a set of custom cocomats the interior is downright cozy.
|
|||||||||||||
|
Posted: 09-24-2019 04:43 pm |
|
51st Post |
noomg Member
|
Dakota, Just had an interesting question come up, over on an Austin-Healey message board a guy had to smog test(and failed)his '66 Healey, hard to believe something that old isn't exempt. The question is, do you have to smog test your J-H and if so how often and what does the test entail?
|
||||||||||||||
|
Posted: 09-24-2019 06:24 pm |
|
52nd Post |
Dakota123 Member
|
I did when I first registered it in Colorado in 2009. Since then, regulations have changed somewhat and vehicles registered 1975 or before that are not driven more than 4,500 miles per year (affidavit signed by owner at registration time) are generally exempt. Registration is good for five years. If not registered as a collector vehicle, testing is annually (two-speed idle test and check for originally-installed emissions equipment). 1976 with collector plates get idle-tested every five years. Without collector plates, generally everything gets tested annually, although 1981 and older is the two-speed idle test and equipment check. Also depends on county (or part of county) of registration; some areas of the state are exempt altogether.
|
|||||||||||||
|
Posted: 09-24-2019 06:41 pm |
|
53rd Post |
noomg Member
|
Wow, and I thought it was only CA that picked on classic car owners.
|
||||||||||||||
|
Posted: 09-25-2019 05:47 pm |
|
54th Post |
noomg Member
|
Well I've placed my order with Rejen(seat foam, webbing, and leather seat covers)it should take about 2 or 3 weeks. In the meantime I'm still dealing with my wiring harness issue. I've been cutting back the harness looking for clean, undamaged wire as of yet I haven't found any. So it's starting to look like I'm going to have to replace the whole wiring harness.
|
|||||||||||||
|
Posted: 09-25-2019 06:17 pm |
|
55th Post |
redracer Member
|
I think this was answered, but the fuses are NOT the same # as printed on the original LUCAS fuses. 35 amp Lucas would be around 17 so I use standard 20 amp fuses. If in fact someone put a 35 amp fuse in(non Lucas) the wire would melt before the fuse blew. Hope that helps if you haven't already seen this. bruce
|
||||||||||||||
|
Posted: 09-25-2019 07:21 pm |
|
56th Post |
noomg Member
|
Bruce, You're right, there has already been a thread or two on this issue. In my case there was AGC 30A fuse in the #3 fuse holder so when the cigar lighter shorted the wires melted down before the fuse finally blew. Ironically when it shorted the wires ended up protecting the fuse rather than the other way around. When I get it back together I think I'll use 15a fuses, they're a bit smaller than original but I'd rather have to replace fuses than a wiring harness.
|
|||||||||||||
|
Posted: 10-06-2019 05:59 pm |
|
57th Post |
noomg Member
|
Well, my new NOS wiring harness arrived from Delta. It looks brand new and appears to be an exact replacement, all the wires look like they're the right colors and the connectors seem to be right as well. That being said it's a real bag of snakes, so installation promises to be an adventure. Oh, and did I forget to mention it only cost 900 bucks!
|
||||||||||||||
|
Posted: 04-06-2020 04:29 pm |
|
58th Post |
noomg Member
|
After replacing the wiring harness and a complete redo of the interior, including all rubber seals, I guess I should have used a broader title for this thread, what can I say it just got away from me. Believe it or not this whole thing started when I accidently pulled a 1" paint chip off the driver's door. So after almost two years and around 7 to 8 grand this project is complete.
|
|||||||||||||
|
Posted: 04-13-2020 02:29 am |
|
59th Post |
noomg Member
|
The finished product(I hope)! Attachment: outside.jpg (Downloaded 70 times)
|
||||||||||||||
|
Posted: 04-13-2020 01:53 pm |
|
60th Post |
Dakota123 Member
|
She looks fantastic, love the high quality work!
|
|||||||||||||
|
Current time is 01:53 am | Page: 1 2 3 4 |
> Jensen Healey & Jensen GT Tech > Projects > 19661 paint and bodywork | Top |