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| Moderated by: Greg Fletcher | Page:   1 2 3 4 |
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| 10628 Refresh | Rating: 
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| Posted: 07-14-2020 05:15 pm |
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61st Post |
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redracer Member
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possible there may be a vacuum leak in the brake booster hose or the booster itself?? I've had to replace 2 boosters in the past year along with a leaky vacuum booster hose(you wouldn't know it if you were to look at it). Fortunately, I had 4 rebuilt a few years ago and powder coated as well, so there was little down time. Our cars/parts are aging and probably a good time to replace suspect items while everything is put on hold due to the covid
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| Posted: 07-14-2020 05:54 pm |
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62nd Post |
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Dakota123 Member
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Good point, it's possible. The check valve is fine but the pedal is harder than I was expecting/remember. I'll block the manifold port, see what happens.
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| Posted: 07-15-2020 12:18 am |
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63rd Post |
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discogodfather Member 
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I have a major lopey idle with the 104 cams and it does sound like a Chevelle sometimes, especially with the flowmaster super 44. It's easy to get it to 1000 rpm and fairly even with the Weber adjustments. Fuel injection I don't know, do you set idle electronically? Is there an idle solenoid?
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| Posted: 07-15-2020 04:32 am |
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64th Post |
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Dakota123 Member
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Still on the Strombergs — it turned out to be the rear carb, started running on two cylinders during a driving thunderstorm (of course). Will sort tomorrow... edit: turned out the carb damper hung up in the bore, so fueling was right for only a very narrow range of conditions. Ridiculous. Can't wait to get rid of those awful things. Last edited on 07-15-2020 04:40 pm by Dakota123 |
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| Posted: 05-28-2024 12:39 am |
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65th Post |
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Dakota123 Member
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Been quite a while… Got the crank-triggered ignition up and running this weekend using a Ford EDIS and Megasquirt 2 v3.57. I had proved out the 36-1 trigger wheel and VR initially using just the EDIS and limp mode (10 deg fixed timing) and then installed the ECU (above and behind the glove box) and relay board (above the foot rest), connected by a cable. Amazingly, just set the timing table in Tuner Studio and fired right up. Even the USB-VGA adapter and driver worked with no issues. Other than the upside-down work installing the ecu and relay board, pretty painless. Rock-solid timing and will idle reliably down to 400-500 rpms (not that you would). Had bought a Spidya RVC-RVI tach conversion kit but not absolutely necessary. Discovered you can drive the RVC tach from the original coil + white/slate wire (which is what I ultimately used for the new coil’s hot lead and hot lead to the EDIS). Works perfectly. (I hooked up a secondary keyed power source so when the tach dies someday it’s 5 minutes to get back on the road). Next up, steering rack, and then the fuel injection piece. Attachment: IMG_0064.jpeg (Downloaded 25 times) Last edited on 05-28-2024 12:43 am by Dakota123 |
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| Posted: 05-28-2024 01:00 am |
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66th Post |
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redracer Member
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Dakota: noticed your Stromberg tops are rotated 90 degrees CCW. The outer "spine" on the top should face the airbox. Also, what is going on with the master cylinder? I don't recognize it from anything I've ever seen one a J-H(or GT)
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| Posted: 05-28-2024 01:07 am |
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67th Post |
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Dakota123 Member
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Ah, thanks re: the strombergs. M/C is from a Corvette. It is/was an experiment- one reason was the front and rear bores are the same size, I wanted to see what a little more back brake relative to the front would do. Not much, if anything, as it turns out. Steering rack inner joints are shot, so that’s next. Ordering a reconditioned unit from Martin Robey.
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