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redracer
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Here's good advice for anyone redoing their front suspension. The lower arm has 2 pices of support for the bolt on the backside, but only one "meager" support for the front of the bolt(see pix). For all the one I redo, I cut a circular piece of 1/8" + metal(one inch diameter or a little more is fine) to add strenght to the tremenduous force put on this area(see pix).
Hope this helps, bruce[img][/img]

Attachment: J-H front subframe lower arm welded support.jpg (Downloaded 108 times)

redracer
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[img][/img]

Attachment: J-H front subframe lower arm welded support.jpg1.jpg1a.jpg (Downloaded 104 times)

redracer
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[img][/img]

Attachment: J-H front subframe lower arm welded support.jpg1.jpg2.jpg3.jpg (Downloaded 104 times)

redracer
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[img][/img]

Attachment: J-H front subframe lower arm welded support.jpg2.jpg (Downloaded 104 times)

dbeliveau74
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This must be the where the lower arm mounts to the cross member.

redracer
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This the FRONT of the subframe where the lower bolt for the lower arm goes through. The rear already has extra metal from the part that attaches to the lower frame, so it is not needed there

dbeliveau74
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Thats what I thought, I'm replacing the front suspension
bushings, trying to get as much info as possible. Top fulcrum bolt is being stubborn, lower was installed backwards so I'll have to drop the steering rack.
Welding that metal on the crossmember won't change the geometry? Had to order new spring seats since they loo,ed pretty bad, so I also ordered new upper and lower fulcrum bolts and nuts. I'm thinking I'll have to cut the bolts off so better to get prepared.
One issue I have is torquing the fulcrum bolts with wheels on the ground. How to get up there? I'll probably Jack up the lower arm to take the weight!

Last edited on 08-03-2023 01:48 am by dbeliveau74

redracer
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Some car ramps that support the wheels would allow you to slide underneath to torque the upper wishbone bolts. The rear of the car should be jacked up to a level height with the front, but you wouldn't need ramps for that



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