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Moderated by: Greg Fletcher |
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Fuses | Rating: |
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Posted: 04-25-2007 03:26 am |
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1st Post |
Joel Member
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I'm considering replacing the worthless fuse box with a small marine grade breaker panel. The fuses seem to quit making a good connection frequently. Even after hitting everything with fine sand paper and making sure the connections are good it seems like they still keep failing - especially my brake lights. Anyone else done any interesting replacements?
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Posted: 04-25-2007 01:48 pm |
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2nd Post |
jcdean Member
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Try this: http://www.painlessperformance.com/webcatalog/catview.php?SearchField=14
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Posted: 04-25-2007 07:43 pm |
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3rd Post |
Greg Fletcher Administrator
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Are you using dielectric grease on the connections? I've found that makes a huge difference in keeping everything working.
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Posted: 04-25-2007 08:11 pm |
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4th Post |
edward_davis Member
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My JH came with the original fusebox bypassed and replaced with a junkyard unit from a modern car. Of course, the connections that PO had made were the source of a bunch of faults, so I replaced it all again with a couple of six-fuse units I got from an online wiring source out of Reno. I discovered I don't have any pictures of these fuse boxes up at the JHPPG. IMHO, replacing the fuse box with a modern unit is the first, best upgrade anyone can make to a LBC. It's suprising how many of the Lucas gremlins are actually created by having all of the current go through three fuses. I used pn AF-GFB6 from wiringproducts.com. I bought two, one for the battery-powered circuits and one for the circuits powered through the ignition. I believe that those are the fat brown wire and the fat white wire that go into the original fuse box. Of course I have no affiliation with this company; I'm just a satisfied customer. Painless offers some good options if you don't want to work so much from sratch. Similarly with Ron Francis and several other hot rod and street rod wiring companies. If it isn't a Jensen, it's just another car... Edward
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Posted: 04-29-2007 10:30 pm |
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5th Post |
edward_davis Member
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I got some pictures of my fuseboxes and posted them on the JHPPG: http://jhppg.com/gallery/1974-No-18713/DCP_0407 and http://jhppg.com/gallery/1974-No-18713/DCP_0410 I also have a breakdown of the fused circuits and fuse amperages: Battery powered (source: brown 14 gauge): Circuit - wire color - wire gauge - fuse amp 1. Headlights - brown - 14 - 15 2. High beams - brown - 16 - 15 3. Clock & interior light - purple - 18 - 5 4. Horn - purple - 18 - 10 5. Cigar lighter - purple - 18 - 10 6 Hazard switch - purple - 18 - 15 Ignition Powered (source: white 14 gauge): 1. Fuel pump & defogger - white - 14 - 10 2. Reverse/ brake fail/ gauge power/ heater - green - 16 - 10 3. Windscreen washer - green - 18 - 10 4. Windscreen wiper - green - 18 - 15 5. Turn signals - green - 18 - 10 6. Stop light - green - 18 - 10 These all work fine now, and if I have a short, I can isolate it quickly. Now that I have my starter in, I have to rebuild my carbs, since the needle valve is sticking again. At least my electrics all work. Hopefully I can get it done in time for the Triangle Car Show on May 19. Cheers! Edward
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