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andrewo Member
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Okay, I think I got the rebuilt alternator in properly, by just torquing down the nut on the pulley until I couldn't get it any tighter. It seemed like the only option. Now I have a new problem. The volt guage is at the top of the white zone even at idle, and seems to be just about pinned at the end of it's travel at 3000 rpm. Is this going to be a problem? I don't want to toast my battery (or anything else). When I put the lights on, it draws the meter down just enough to get it into the white zone at 3000. I realized that I should verify the accuracy of the gauge, so I just fired it up. At idle speed, there is 16.3 volts across the battery terminals, which I think is overcharging. I'm wondering if I got a bad rebuild. Sorry about all the questions around this one job, but this is the first I am really running this car, and after everything that I have put into it, I don't want to blow it up. Last edited on 05-03-2009 08:04 pm by andrewo |
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Gary Martin JH 15371 Member
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Mine reads 14.6 volts across the battery at idle and also at 3000 rmp. 16.3 is too much. Gary |
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dwalls1 Member
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Sounds high to me too. I had a rebuilt Lucas on my TR7 do the same thing shortly after I installed it. Taking the back cover off revealed a spade connector that had come adrift. Quick fix, and I'm still running that alternator. |
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mcguan.2 Member
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Just today, I started experiencing a similar problem. I had the alternator rebuilt about 8 months ago, and it always registered a little high on the guage, but today the gauge started jumping into the red zone. Checking that the battery terminals with the multimeter, it would go anywhere from 13 to 16.9. There doesn't seem to be any rhyme or reason to the surges, i.e. when I increase rpm's sometimes it stays right at 13 or 14. I can't tell exactly what rpm's I'm at because, just last week, the tach stopped working. So, do y'all think I've just got a bum rebuild, or is there something I'm missing? |
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