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| Moderated by: Greg Fletcher | Page: 1 2   |
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| Help caliper pistons and new pads | Rating: 
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| Posted: 05-11-2007 03:19 am |
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1st Post |
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Zamoraj Member
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Hello all, Greg, great job running the jhps!!! I am trying to finalize a replacement of front disks and pads (and bearings) for my JH. Got all the parts from Delta. I was happy they suggested including bearings, as I found one on each side that definitely needed replacement (so I did all 4). However, I can't get the new pads and disk to thick to fit in the calipers (which I did not break apart, not up to that yet). The pistons are quite hard and I can't get them to retreat inwards. Any suggestions would be welcome.
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| Posted: 05-12-2007 01:15 am |
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2nd Post |
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smcmanus Member 
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Sounds to me like your calipers need to be rebuilt. You can take a C-clamp and a block of wood across the piston and see if you can get it to move. It is a good idea to open the bleeder first. If it moves relatively easily, then you are probably OK. If it takes much force to move, then a rebuild is in order. When was the last time the calipers were done? If it was '73, then they probably need it anyway. Good Luck Steve
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| Posted: 05-12-2007 02:33 am |
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3rd Post |
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Ron Earp Member 
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Nice alternative is to use TR7 calipers. They bolt right on, and can be bought completely new for like $70 each. You will have a nice side effect of more pad choices, cheaper rebuild costs, and slightly larger pad area. TR7 pads are cheap, readily available, and can be had in race compounds if you desire. And no, the slightly larger pad area does not increase pedal effort. And on yours, if I can't push them back with my fingers, granted with a lot of effort, I rebuild them. I still agree with the above posting about using a block and c-clamp since many times you can't get a straight shot with your hands, but a nice working caliper with bleed screw open should be doable with your hands/fingers. Ron Last edited on 05-12-2007 04:14 am by Ron Earp |
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| Posted: 05-13-2007 01:15 pm |
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4th Post |
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Zamoraj Member
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thanks to both of you, very helpful suggestions. I will try the c clamp first and if not, I'll probably go with the new calipers. The existing ones are the originals and it does not look like they've been touched since '74....when the bearings unpacked, the original oil seals were still there.
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| Posted: 05-13-2007 06:38 pm |
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5th Post |
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Ron Mau Member
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Hey Ron, Where is a good place you suggest for the TR7 Calipers? Mine just locked up on me 15 miles from home and by the time I got there the outside driver pad was metal to metal. Granted I have a set of dells getting rebuilt now, but would like to continue to drive it in the mean time. Thanks Jeremy Mau (at my dads house)
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| Posted: 05-14-2007 04:28 am |
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6th Post |
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Mark Rosenbaum Member 
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You can also use the calipers from a later Spitfire. There are some minor differences but AFAIK they are not significant. And JH pads will work on the Spit calipers. Attachment: Spitfire 1970 vs JH 1973 calipers 1.jpg (Downloaded 133 times)
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| Posted: 05-14-2007 02:38 pm |
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7th Post |
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Jon Plowe Member
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I have recently improved the braking by a large margin by changing the 'adequate' Girling Type 14 caliper fitted as standard to Girling Type 16 (probably the same as TR7) as fitted to TR6's, Ford Escort RS's, Ford Capri's and many other 70's and early 80's British cars. Bolt straight on. Also have gone from standard pads (feeble) to EBC Green Stuff (better) to Mintex 1147 (expensive but wonderful) which with the above has transformed the braking. Also found out that self adjusting rear brakes have about 20% more area of friction material. Cheers Jon
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| Posted: 05-15-2007 12:44 am |
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8th Post |
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Ron Earp Member
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Jeremy, I've used http://www.carparts.com before. They have reman calipers for $75, everything included, just bolt it on. They work well, will hold up to racing duty because everybody I know running TR7s/TR8s have used them fine. I'm sure they are some overseas made parts, but they do the job and offer you a much better selection of pad choices as Jon points out. I'm fairly certain they are same calipers that fit the aforementioned cars. Ron
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| Posted: 05-16-2007 06:03 am |
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9th Post |
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Joel Member
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Ron: Great INFO! I'm putting on new brake lines and am considering replacing the calipers just because I'm sure mine are OE. For 150 bucks it's worth it. Then I can screw around with the originals if I want to - but for 75 bucks why bother? Anywho, what pads do you like? I've been known to work my brakes hard. . . I'm not on the track but I work em. And I don't put that many miles on the car so I don't mind replacing them once in a while too. It's not like I need to get 30,000 miles out of them. Joel Last edited on 05-16-2007 06:04 am by Joel |
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| Posted: 05-16-2007 04:36 pm |
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10th Post |
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Ron Earp Member
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I got some Hawk Blues for the race car, and some Carbotechs, but don't use those. Too little bite until they are hot and they won't be hot enough on the street unless you are braking from 100mph repeatedly. I honestly don't have a recommendation for a street car since I unfortunately never got my JH on the street. Sounds like Jon has some recommendations and I have heard the Green Stuff was decent based on another application. R
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| Posted: 05-16-2007 08:23 pm |
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11th Post |
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Jensen Healey Super Moderator 
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Hawk HPS street pads. I use the Spitfire pads in the JH calipers and even though they're slightly smaller they're a real improvement over regular pads or simi-metallic pads. I bought some used TR7 calipers to check them out and the pad size is very slightly larger than the JH. They weigh a ton. The TR8 calipers and pads would be a real improvement but those are rare. Best to go with the JHPS Big Brake Kit.
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| Posted: 05-16-2007 08:51 pm |
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12th Post |
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Joel Member
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Only problems with the 'big brake' kit is: 1) it's expensive 2) i need either the spacers (expensive) or to buy all new rims and tires (even more expensive). On the 2nd JH I have I figure I'll go big brakes and larger rims. For the one I'm running now - I just need better brakes. The brakes on this thing SUCK. I can't lock them up at 35mph - not good. And every once in a while - it feels like only one front brake is working - even worse! So, I just got new lines from Greg and I'm deciding whether or not to just put the damn calipers on while I've got it all apart. I'm strongly leaning towards putting on the Reman TR7 calipers. Cheap and lots of pads available. It's GOT to be an improvement over what's currently on it.
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| Posted: 05-17-2007 05:32 pm |
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13th Post |
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Jon Plowe Member
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Apologise I meant to say the type of pads I use are Mintex 1144 (not 1147) which with the type 16's give real bite. It might be of interest to know that spacer kits for type 16's are readily available. Unfortunately I've not been able to find a set on vented discs to match, but then unless you are thrashing your car around a track do you need them? Jon
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| Posted: 06-03-2007 02:52 am |
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14th Post |
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DeDub Member 
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I've installed JHPS's big brake kit and stainless lines and I have a couple of observations and a complaint. First, the braking is superb; linear and strong and though I haven't raced it, I haven't felt any fade. Second, they're an easy bolt-on affair. FYI, I've simply installed a pair of spacers under the front rims so I can continue using the stock rims and I think it's fine for street use. Third, the pads contact the rotors farther outboard than stock which causes a few things to happen: the outer edge of the pads overhang the outside of the rotors by a small amount, a couple of millimeters, and consequently as the pads wear, a little ledge of unworn pad forms outside the rotor and it looks as if they would eventually contact each other and prevent the pads from squeezing the rotor. A minor problem that a little occasional filing would fix. My complaint it about noise. The pads are loose in the calipers, rattle like crazy while driving, and make a clacking sound if I hit the brakes quickly. It's a pretty loud rattle. I don't see an easy way to lock the pads in place while still allowing their movement but am pretty unhappy with the amount of noise they make. Has anyone else dealt with this and/or found a fix? Dave, JH 19377, now in a red dress with black trim
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| Posted: 06-05-2007 01:17 am |
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15th Post |
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Greg Fletcher Administrator 
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This is the first time I've heard about noise from the pads/calipers. Is your master cylinder and the rest of the brake system working properly? If the noise is from pad vibration, that can happen on any disk set up. Try using some disk brake quite compound or hi temp silcon between the pad and the caliper pistons.
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| Posted: 06-10-2007 05:51 pm |
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16th Post |
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Joel Member
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HMMM, I purchased some rebuilt TR7 calipers. They don't fit and certainly are not bolt on replacements. . . Did TR7 use several different calipers? At least the shop I bought them from said (and reconfirmed) they are TR7 calipers. I hate to go get another pair just to see. . .
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| Posted: 06-11-2007 04:33 am |
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17th Post |
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Art DeKneef Member
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The way I read the info is that the calipers were from a TR6 and might be the same as a TR7. So I went to two web sites, Victoria British and the Car Parts one Ron mentioned and compared calipers for 1976 cars. I checked both sites for calipers for each car. On each site the parts number for each caliper is different as well as the price. I would think if they would be the same the part number and price would be the same. Wanting more information I looked up the pictures of the two different calipers and they look different. Now there are no dimensions or scale listed so it is impossible to tell from the pictures which would fit. I even checked a 76 Spitfire that Mark mentioned might fit. The part number for the front caliper is the same as the Healey. So I think we can say the parts are the same. The only way to be sure is for those who have changed calipers to supply part numbers or to take your Healey calipers to the place and compare them with a TR6 and TR7. Sounds like a trip to Delta is in order as I need a few more parts any how. Art
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| Posted: 06-11-2007 04:56 pm |
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18th Post |
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Jon Plowe Member
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I was speaking to an elderly gentleman yesteray who had the dubious privilage of being a manufacturer and supplier of parts to British cars in the 1970's. He said it was common practice to use different part numbers for the same item depending on which vehicle it was going onto e.g Rover more expensive than Austin
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| Posted: 06-11-2007 09:18 pm |
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19th Post |
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Ron Earp Member
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Art DeKneef wrote:
I can tell you for sure some 1977 TR7 calipers will bolt right on the Jensen with no trouble at all. Bought brand news ones from Vic Brit when they were on sale year or so ago. Cheap, new, and work great. Cheaper than the rebuild kit, use readily available TR7 pads and components. The TR7 caliper is different than the Jensen caliper, but is cheap, and has more pad selection as well as being a tiny bit larger. R
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| Posted: 06-12-2007 03:45 am |
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20th Post |
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Art DeKneef Member
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Ron, I don't doubt you. I was hoping you might have a part number to use for reference so I don't go through what Joel did and maybe help Joel out. I'm going to Delta sometime this week and will take some of my parts with and see if Jim and I can come up with something for reference. And Jon, I figured as much. Art
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