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| Brake refurb | Rate Topic |
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| Posted: 06-26-2019 03:27 pm |
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1st Post |
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TommyV9 Member
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Hi, New to the group and first post. I've been looking at JH's for a couple years now. First rode in one in high school in the 70's and never forgot it, it was quite the wild ride! Edit: my car is 16058 - Yellow I picked up a 74 JH out of Tulsa, previously Iowa this week and brought it home. The brakes are inop and there was no brake fluid in the reservoir. This surprised the widow I bought it from as she had been driving it up until this year. From what I've read that means a new MC. I contacted Delta MS and bought a MC, some brake lines, cam cover gaskets, o-rings, cam belt and tensioner bearings to fix the brakes and an oil leak and get her road worthy again. Jeff at Delta didn't seem to think I would need to replace the brake booster even though it seems the brake fluid has leaked from the MC into the booster (no fluid on the floor or under the bonnet). How do I get the brake fluid out of the booster? Do I have to remove it (read that to do that I need to pull the pedal cluster)? TIA, Tom Last edited on 06-26-2019 03:40 pm by TommyV9 |
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| Posted: 06-26-2019 05:12 pm |
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2nd Post |
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Dakota123 Member
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Feel under the MC/booster joint, it will be damp if there's a leak, and/or the paint on the inner fender will be eaten away. It would be rare for fluid to end up in the booster; typically boosters have a notch or even a channel at the MC/booster joint to prevent fluid from leaking into the booster. If you do want to remove the booster, you need to unfasten four nuts under the dash along with the pin at the pedal. Not too comfy under there, but quick job. Google Jensen Healey pedal box images; there are a few good ones available. And congrats on joining the JH club! Last edited on 06-26-2019 05:13 pm by Dakota123 |
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| Posted: 06-26-2019 07:14 pm |
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3rd Post |
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TommyV9 Member
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Thanks for the reply. I wonder if the fluid could end up inside on the floor pan? The floor pan is rusty and a bit damp, but the rest of the car including the passenger floor pan is dry. The passenger floor pan is also rusty. Last edited on 06-26-2019 07:29 pm by TommyV9 |
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| Posted: 06-26-2019 07:43 pm |
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4th Post |
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Dakota123 Member
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Not likely it could end up inside the vehicle given it would have to get past the booster diaphragm. Another possibility is a wheel cylinder or caliper piston seal leak.
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| Posted: 06-26-2019 08:46 pm |
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5th Post |
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TommyV9 Member
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That makes sense, but it was clean and dry under the vehicle where it had been parked since last year when it was last driven.
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| Posted: 06-27-2019 03:08 pm |
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6th Post |
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redracer Member
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Tom: whikle you're doing all this mechanical repair the MAIN problem is keeping the "tin worm" from doing a number on the panels. POR15, KBS, Mastercoat, all make excellent products to prevent rust. The floor pans, inside the fenders(the coverplate behnd the front wheels and the ones in front of the rear wheels; 5 #2 crosspoint screws for each), and shooting inside both rockers. I CAN"T overemphasize this as the car, being a monocoque and not a frame car(like Austin Healeys, etc) will be difficult to repair(unless you're a "BONDO" nut), so please jump on this while getting the easier mechanicals fixed. bruce, Red Racer
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| Posted: 06-27-2019 03:31 pm |
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7th Post |
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TommyV9 Member
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Bruce, Thanks for the tips, I'm familiar with the tin worm :). My most recent and only other car I have restored was a 71 911. I used a lot of POR15 on that car in the process of bringing it back from a roller to a running car. The JH (Jenny as her former owner named her) has a little rust perforation at the angle of the drivers door sill(left) and the rear fender. My friend Jeremy told me about those coverplates and the areas getting dirt and sand filled and wet and starting the rust from inside out. The floor pans still had the rubber mats and there is a 1 inch diameter hole in the driver pan and while rusty, it seems pretty solid. My plan is to wire brush the rest away, treat it with a rust converter and POR15 or epoxy primer on both sides. Edit: I also plan to weld a patch into the floor. I'll take it to a body shop whose owner has restored British roadsters for his kids to drive as they came of age, so he should be able to take car of the area in the rear fender, door sill area. Remarkably, that is the only rust I can find on the entire car. It has been well taken care of. It was owned since 2005 by an ASE mechanic but sat mostly after his death in 2015. He bought the car from the original owner who was a friend of his. His widow, Connie, cried when we drove away with her. This car has been loved. Last edited on 06-27-2019 03:33 pm by TommyV9 |
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| Posted: 06-27-2019 05:15 pm |
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8th Post |
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redracer Member
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Sounds good(glad to see your friend will patch weld it and not "bondo" it), but if I am not mistaken, epoxy primer doesn't flex much if at all? On the other hand, I had a "drip" of black POR15 saved which I bent 90 degrees for almost 6 months before it finally gave way! btw, POR15 will seal holes up to about the size of a quarter--something to think about. keep us posted and maybe some pix along the way? bruce
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| Posted: 06-27-2019 06:34 pm |
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9th Post |
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TommyV9 Member
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Thanks for the tip on the flexibility of POR15 vs Epoxy Primer. I'll talk to my buddy who paints a lot of high end muscle car restos. He gave me the epoxy primer. I'll have to figure out how to post pics too.
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