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| Moderated by: Greg Fletcher |
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| Brake drum removal | Rating: 
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| Posted: 08-05-2005 02:56 am |
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1st Post |
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George Member
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I cannot seem to get one of my brake drums off, the other side came off ok, but this side is really stuck on there. Any tricks of the trade out there?
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| Posted: 08-05-2005 03:46 am |
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2nd Post |
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Dan Collier Member 
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On the Lockheed brake system, I believe you can take a large flat screwdriver and release the internal adjuster. Look at PN 94250 "Lever-upper-shoe" in the Delta Catolog. Then use a rubber mallot to tap it off.  Dan Collier 74JH 14381 2.2L Jensen-Healey Presevation Photo Gallery
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| Posted: 08-05-2005 05:07 pm |
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3rd Post |
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Greg Fletcher Administrator 
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Be sure the parking brake is off (obvious, but sometimes overlooked). On my old '73 JH with the Girling rear brakes, I always had a hard time getting the drums off, even after turning the adjuster down. I used a rubber mallet to forcefully tap all around the drum to remove them.
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| Posted: 08-06-2005 08:22 pm |
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4th Post |
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George Member
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Thanks for the tips, but I have still been unable to budge the thing. I have been whacking around the back lip of the drum off and on for a few days now using a block of wood and a hammer and still nuffin' happens. Thinking caps, boys. Any other thoughts? Last edited on 08-06-2005 08:22 pm by George |
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| Posted: 08-06-2005 09:59 pm |
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5th Post |
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Mark Rosenbaum Member 
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The possibilities I see are (a) the drum is rusted solid to the flange on the axle shaft or to the backing plate or both, (b) the drum has been ground away by worn-out brake shoes that now project into the body of the drum, (c) the shoes are rusted solid to the drum, or some combination thereof. The solution to (a) is to apply an actual penetrating oil such as Liquid Wrench to each of the wheel studs and to the space between the drum and axle flange, and anywhere else you think rust might be lurking. Then give the outer face of the drum a few good hammer whacks between each pair of studs -- the parts should ring at least a little, which allows the penetrating oil to creep in a bit further. Repeat this several times a day for several days, then see if the drum can be removed. You could also try alternately heat from a propane torch, and ice cubes, applied to the face of the drum, possibly in conjunction with penetrating oil. The solution to (b) is to release the self-adjuster by sticking a screwdriver into the hole provided for that purpose, then repeatedly tap / whack the backing plate and drum to encourage the brake shoes to retract. Penetrating oil sprayed directly into the brake mechanism may be of benefit here. The solution to (c) is pretty much the same as for (b) except that you will also want the penetrationg oil to creep between the drum and brake shoes. If all the above fails, you'll probably have to expend the drum. Try really forceful hammer whacks directly on the inner edge of the drum. If that doesn't work, you might try to cut the drum into two or more sections using high-speed cutoff wheel. I wouldn't use a cutting torch unless I no longer cared about the axle shaft or anything on the backing plate. Good luck.
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| Posted: 08-06-2005 11:06 pm |
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6th Post |
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John Young Member 
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There is the possiblitie of using a torch to heat the drum and it will expand enough to pop off. I have done this a few years ago and you can hear the drum pop. Be careful with heat too much will distort the drum.
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| Posted: 08-07-2005 01:46 am |
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7th Post |
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George Member
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I figure it is probably (a), as the brake drum spins fine and the brakes also worked well. So I will proceed accordingly, with the penetrant and then move on to heat as needed. Hopefully that will get it. Thanks to all and I will report back as the situation warrants.
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| Posted: 08-09-2005 02:38 pm |
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8th Post |
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George Member
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Once again the list comes thru! A few days of PB Blaster and then just little heat resulted in a very satisfying "POP" and off it came. Thanks to all.
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