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answerman Member
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I've been trying to get Ms. Jenavieve's handbrake to work right ever since I've had her. I've spent the last couple of days taking everything apart and putting back together, and I'm close (the handbrake is almost working right now). What I've determined is that the right side brake is not quite engaging at 5 clicks, though the left one is. If I disconnect everything and put a pipe over the actuating arm on the right side brake, and pull hard, it is definitely working... just not tight enough with the cable/rod mechanism alone. I was thinking about cutting the clevis off, welding a splice nut to it, and threading the end of the rod after cutting it a little shorter so that it's basically got the same "adjustability" as the left "cable" side. Anyone see anything wrong with this idea? |
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NigelK Member
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My mechanical skills don't allow me to comment on the technical feasibility of what you're proposing! But, having had the Lockheed drum brakes on my GT apart in recent weeks, I think it would be worth you checking that the self-adjusters on both sides are a) working properly and b) are equally adjusted. Before you start cutting clevis pins. I think it would also be worth you asking someone to measure how much each handbrake lever at the drum backing plate moves when you pull up the handbrake lever at the centre console - if the movement is the same both left and right, then it sounds to me like you may have an issue with your self-adjusters. Please feel free to ignore all this if you've got Girling brakes! |
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answerman Member
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The consensus in the Facebook group was that I need to double check the adjustment in the right brake, since that's the one that's not locking up correctly. I did notice that at rest the left brake is dragging ever so slightly while the right brake is not dragging at all, so I'll start there (as soon as I figure out how to manually adjust the brake, the Lockheeds don't have that manual adjuster that the Girlings do). |
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subwoofer Member
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I guess you just have to do the reverse of loosening the adjusters, use a flat blade screwdriver and poke around in there until you manage to tighten it. But I think that really means that the adjuster isn't properly lubricated and is sticking. -- Joachim |
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NigelK Member
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I don't think you can tighten the self-adjuster without dis-assembling the drum brake entirely. You should however, as Joachim says, be able to completely slacken off the self-adjuster remotely - remove the oval rubber blank from the back of the backing plate, you should be able to see a metal slot in the upper lever of the self-adjuster through the backing plate, insert a flat-blade screwdriver into this slot and push upwards to release the mechanism. In theory, with this done on both sides, use of the brakes should then tighten the self-adjusters equally on both sides. In practice, however, this may not work if the self-adjuster levers are corroded, in which case you need to dis-assemble the drum brake, clean up the self-adjuster levers with some emery paper, including the fine teeth which mesh the two levers together, and lubricate the spring and lever pins so the levers can rotate freely. Hope this helps. |
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gmgiltd Member
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Another item to check is the equaliser assembly in the middle - if not free and greased the pins can wear and bind slightly. There is no point in having adjusters on both sides as in theory shortening the adjustment should apply equally to both sides. Gordon |
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answerman Member
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Yes, I think disassembly and cleaning/lubricating is in order. I replaced the shoes last spring as part of the rebuild, but I didn't do any cleanup on the self-adjuster mechanism. I suppose that is the place I should start as Nigel suggested... clean up and lubricate before I go any further to see if that either solves the problem or removes it as a cause. |
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answerman Member
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Got it figured out, mostly anyway. Opened up the brakes again, took the right side one apart to clean and lubricate everything, and after looking at the exploded view in the manual, found that the lower lever was in backwards. Same on the left side. My fault, though in my defense I took Brett Gibson's advice of doing one side at a time last spring so the other side was available as a reference... apparently they've been in backwards since the previous owner's days. All reassembled and working properly now, though I think the left side adjuster is worn a little too much to stay adjusted. I have a spare axle from my bits car with all this attached yet, so at some point I'll pull the associated bits off and swap them out to see if that makes things perfect. Regardless, I now finally have a handbrake that actually does what it's supposed to do. |
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Spaceman Member 
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I am dong my rear brakes right now, and as the E-Brake and self adjuster are one and the same mechanism, it makes sense. The manual says once the self adjuster is set, then e-brake is set too. From reading this I will pay special attention to the self adjusters and everything will be clean and lubed before going back in. My buddy is having trouble with his ebrake, and I suspect its got something to do with the adjusters... |
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NigelK Member
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Don't follow the manual advice re setting the self adjusters with the hand brake, it doesn't work! Instead, disconnect the handbrake cable and rod from the levers. Then pump the foot brake 3-4 times and you should hear the self adjusters click as the shoes move into the correct position relative to the drums. Then reconnect the hand brake cable and rod, and adjust the clevis as per the manual. |
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