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Mark Rosenbaum Member 
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I ran across a web page describing an inexpensive home-made pressure brake bleeder, which may be of interest. The address is http://www.bmw-m.net/TechProc/bleeder.htm . I have not built one of these, but the article makes sense. The only concern I'd have would be how the various plastics involved would interact with a non-silicone brake fluid, as normally only a few materials (such as EP and Viton) will resist the corrosive action of such fluids for prolonged periods. |
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StabnSteer Member 
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I have done this for my Saab with a bicycle pump, basketball air needle and a stock Saab reservoir cap (which has a nice little hole in the top of it where the needles fits great). I use old brake fluid containers to hold the stuff I bleed as I tend to have quite a few laying around thanks to lots of brake bleeding on race cars. So yep - this idea certainly holds water (or air?) and is much further up the geek scale from my bicycle pump method! |
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Greg Fletcher Administrator 
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I've used an English made kit that did the same thing. Despite the fact that it included the correct sized adaptor and rubber seals it always seemed to be leaking somewhere and making a mess. The last thing I need is brake fluid dripping around my car paint. I finally dumped it in the trash and went back to using the one-way bleeders and the rubber tubes which makes brake bleeding an easy one-man job. |
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pbahr Member 
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This is a new answer to an old post, but as Greg indicates, a one-way bleed screw like the "Speed Bleeder" works great on a couple of my cars. Probably cost less than $25 for a JH set. Pete Bahr YELODOG |
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Jay Member 
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I was thinking about getting one of those vacuum pumps (MityVac) to bleed my brakes. Has anyone used one of those hand held vacuum pumps to suck the fluid toward the bleeders? Does the pedel need to be depressed somewhat to open valve(s) in the MC? Would the order of bleeding need to be changed? Any suggestions would be most welcome. Thanks, Jay |
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pbahr Member
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Jay, I have and have used the MityVac for bleeding. Works fine, but the Speed Bleeder is much easier and quicker. Also no mess to clean up (you do have to clean the MityVac of all the old brake fluid after use). Speed Bleeder is EASY ! BTW, the MityVac has many other uses, and I find it a handy tool to have around (like checking the Brake Booster for leaks as an example). Pete Bahr |
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George Member
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I have tired making a home bleeder and also tried a Mityvac. All I ever succeed in doing was making quite a mess. I could never get anything to work. I have speed bleeders on the JH and like them, for the other cars I enlist the supportive spouse until my daughter is old enough to reach the brake pedal. |
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Jay Member
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Pete, Could you recommend a source for the Speed Bleeders? I think that I would like to get some the my JH. Thanks, Jay |
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pbahr Member
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Hi Jay, I'm sure that there are many places to purchase them, but I ordered directly from the manufacturer. They are about $7 each - well worth it IMHO. SPEED BLEEDER PRODUCTS 1-888-879-7016. They also have a website: http://speedbleeder.com/ For JH:
YELODOG |
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Jay Member
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YELODOG, Thanks for the information (and the part numbers). I wasn't sure of the thread sizes. I think I'll order some soon. Jay |
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dwalls1 Member
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pbahr wrote:
Thanks Pete, I checked out their website and will probably order some. Would you happen to have the part nos. for my TR7? I realise it's asking a lot and I have other sources for the info, but thought I'd ask. Thanks again, Dale |
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pbahr Member
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Dale, You could give them a phone call and perhaps they can identify the correct screw from the car make/model. Or, pull one from the TR-7 and compare to the JH - it might be the same. Or, get out your calipers/micrometer and measure the diameter and count threads per inch. The size code is: 3824 = 3/8 inch diameter, and 24 tpi. Pete |
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Frank Schwartz Guest
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I found that you can buy speed bleeders at most auto supply stores. I get mine at O"Rielly's here in my home town. They are packaged in pairs. Not expensive. Frank |
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Jay Member
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If I were to use my Mity Vac to check the booster, how much vacuum would it be expected to hold, and for how long. I don't want to put apply too much vacuum and possibly damage the unit. |
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Jensen Healey Super Moderator 
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http://www.buckeyetriumphs.org/technical/Brakes/Servo/Servo.htm Lots of good info here. |
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pbahr Member
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Jay, It is impossible to generate more than 14.7 psi with a vacuum pump. If there are no leaks, you should be able to hold this pressure for hours at least. YELODOG |
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roland11a Member
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Not sure what all the drama is about bleeding brakes. I use a short piece of rubber hose with one end blocked off and a slit cut into it. (same one for 30 years) Just slacken of the bleed nipple push on the pipe and pump the brake peddle. The slit in the rubber acts as a non-return valve stopping air being drawn back into the system. to catch the old fluid just place an old washing up bowl under the bleed pipe. Works just as well on modern ABS fitted cars. In my time messing with old cars the biggest cause of a bad paddle is worn/oversized brake drums Pat Last edited on 11-25-2013 08:18 pm by roland11a |
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pbahr Member
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Pat, The hose with the slit is a great idea and as you indicate has been around a very long time. Was that your invention?????????? YELODOG |
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roland11a Member
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Wish I could claim the credit but I can't. A friend lent me the vacuum pump type bleeding tool recently and while it worked ok on my wifes Renault Cleo it just pulled air past the threads when tried on my Freelander. What was really usefull with the vacuum pump type, was being able to suck all the old fluid out of the reservoir. |
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answerman Member
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If you're lazy like me, and have an air compressor and an extra $25, you can't go wrong with this. I will never bleed brakes without it again... http://www.harborfreight.com/brake-fluid-bleeder-92924.html |
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Jay Member
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While thinking about this vacuum test of the booster, I'm wodering... I plan to connect the vacuum pump to the hose that will then connect to the booster check valve. After I apply a vacuum load, I will wait to see if it holds. The problem is, how do I know if the vacuum is being held within the booster or if it is simly being held within the hose, between the vacuum pump and the check valve. Maybe a pressure load within the booster would make more sense in regards to the check valve. But then how do I get the pressure to move past the check valve. It seems that there needs to be another way to introduce the vacuum load or pressure load into the booster without the check valve being involved. Has anyone made some other sort of connection? Am I making this test more difficult than it needs to be? |
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Jensen Healey Super Moderator
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It may not hold a vacuum at all so no need to consider other options until you get there. The check valve is bad it probably just leaks pressure and is unlikely to fail the way you describe. |
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Matthew10571 Member
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I replaced my old MC with the TR6 MC and took off the top put a hole in it big enough to fit a chrome schrader valve from a tire on the cap. Now I just need to use a bicycle pump to add pressure to bleed the system. |
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