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Ron Earp Member 
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On some rear brake designs the drums require hand brake use to adjust the shoes outward to accomidate for wear. Is the JH 4 speed rear end like this? I have yet to investigate this, but if this is required I'll have to fit some sort of handbrake lever and pulley/cable system to do this. Thanks, Ron |
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Jim Ketcham Member
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Ron, JHs with the Lockheed rear drum brakes use the handbrake for adjustment as you describe. I am unfamiliar with the earlier Girling rear brake systems. Jim |
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Brian Kelly Member
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The earlier Girling rear brake systems require periodic manual adjustment. Brian |
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Ron Earp Member
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I'm going to check mine tonight. Anyone know when the switchover occured? I hope mine is manual, then I won't have to worry about hooking up a parking brake or anything like that. R |
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Mark Rosenbaum Member 
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This is actually one of the things the factory did a good job of documenting. As originally produced, the cars with Lockheed brakes were VINs 13397, 13579, 13734, 13736, 13751, 13753, 13755, 13759, 13797, 13954, 13960, 14031, 14035, 14036, 14040, 14043, 14047, 14047, 14059, and 14064 up. Naturally this does not take into account changes an owner might have made. Perhaps you could use the Lockheed brakes without connecting the handbrake stuff, by manually pulling on each brake assembly's handbrake lever a few times. This would set the self adjusters, and thus the brakes. Offhand I don't see any reason why they would later lose the setting, even in a racing environment, until lining wear became a factor. It's my understanding that switching between Lockheed and Girling brakes is basically just swapping backing plates and the brake components thereon, but I haven't ever verified this. |
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Judson Manning Member 
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Ron, The earlier drums are somewhat self-adjusting but have an adjustment 'knob' built into the upper shoe pivot. The knob is roughly 1/4" square and is 'inboard' of the drum housing. Ajustment basically consists of removing the wheel and adjusting the knob such that the shoes are just on the brink of dragging inside the drum. As I mentioned, there is some self-adjustment and this procedure shouldn't be necessary very often. Judson |
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Ron Earp Member
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I still have not looked at mine, but I know there is a little lever sticking out of the bottom of my drum if that makes any difference to anyone. This lever was of course connected to the hand brake, but the mechanics of my hand brake were rusted and destroyed, so we cut it off and chucked it. If they self-adjust through acuation of this lever, then that might be easy to do with my hand or a cable system hooked up to them. I hope to get to looking at it tonight, thanks for all the input! Ron Judson, if we come run Road Atlanta in the JH will you come out for moral support (and to pick up broken bits)? Might be a good time for me to get the car out on the first race, although the track is far less than ideal for the JH first outing - high speed track will take a toil on the JH, I was hoping Roebling or CMP since those are better suited. |
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Judson Manning Member
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Ron the lever attaches at the bottom of the brake assembly where the wheel cylinder is located. The adjustment is made at the upper part of the assembly. Removing the lever is a GOOD thing. I'd be more than happy to act as part of your crew at Road A, TGPRI and/or Roebling, as long as beer is involved (please, no PBR...lol). Besides, if we have a catastropy we can just transplant the 907/910 into your car. Rules??? we don't need no stinkin rules! Judson |
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Tom Thomson Member
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A while back, just as my old computer was was in it's death throes, someone sent a message abt the availabilty of old style ( Girling ) backing plates and adjusters. Would that someone give me another chance? Tom tthomson@tls.net |
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