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malcolm
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This is the start of a register of interest of those wishing to preorder the brake booster Greg had on the Club Store previously.

This is neccessary to give Greg the confidence to order some more in these diffulcult times.

Dakota123
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Joined:	03-20-2009
Location:	Colorado USA
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I'm in.

Mike

Dakota123
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Hmmm. Not giving Greg much confidence here, are we?

dwalls1
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Joined:	04-11-2008
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I have several brake issues, that I am putting off. I had hoped that a new booster would be the cure all, but disconnecting it made the brakes much harder to work, so I guess the dirty old thing is working and that I must address other areas.

Brett Gibson JH5 20497
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If you still have those 3 old rubber flex hoses replace them with the SS braided ones, you will feel the differance at the pedal.

Brett

dwalls1
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Thanks for the tip. I need to get on it sooner than later as I'm developing some continued pedal after brake application, with no lost fluid. Something is bypassing or?. I will get on the club store and get some good stuff any way. Thanks again.

malcolm
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The jensemns brakes were always only adequate so improvement has to be obtained incrementaly. i.e baided hoses , better pad material,increased pad area by changing callipers(using Vauxhall ventora callipers), Willwood or some other after market JHPS?)changing rear brakes to disces(I beleive there is example in the photo gallery)another candidate for this is the Ford Sierra and increasing the brake booster capacity

Dakota123
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For those looking for a rebuilt servo, this is showing up today on eBay:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/JENSEN-HEALEY-REBUILT-BRAKE-SERVO_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp4999Q2em20Q2el1116QQhashZitem334c894248QQitemZ220327395912QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

Mike

Brett Gibson JH5 20497
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There was a vendor in Ohio that rebuilt the servo's if you shipped yours to him for about $80, I looked thru the JHPS site but dont see it anymore.

But then I'm locked out of the Club Garage right now because I cant remember my user name and password, once Greg lets me back in I'll take a look and see if that info is there.

Brett

Brett Gibson JH5 20497
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Well found the info at the Buckeye Triumphs Web site. Brett

Brake servo rebuild service: Those of you that need a servo serviced might consider Partco Automotive, 1494 State Avenue, Cincinnati, OH 45204, 513-471-7000. I talked to the owner Gary (had a TR4 in college) and obtained the following information:

He cleans, blasts and paints the units and replaces all soft parts including the seals, valves and diaphragm. He uses a non OEM replacement check valve unless requested not to replace it. The cost is $85 plus shipping and sales tax if you have it shipped to Ohio.
He can arrange to have the shells powder coated (he ships them to Fred Thomas (vafred@erols.com), you arrange with Fred to do the work and pay Fred directly for the powder coating.) Fred says the powder coating charge is on the order of $25 and you can select from a variety of designer colors.
Gary offers two day turnaround on your unit. (Extra if you have Fred powder coat the shell). He does have units for exchange if you need one quicker and don't require your own unit back.
He cautioned that one can damage the shell if it's not taken apart properly. If the shell is distorted it won't seal properly.

Ricardo_Julio
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Please go to:
http://www.mail-archive.com/spitfires@autox.team.net/msg11196.html

They claim that they purchased the equipment and stock from partco.

Dakota123
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Ended up going with a 9" nominal universal booster from Piratjack.net. Works great, a bit more boost than stock which is what I was after. The system feels much more like a modern car, easier to modulate near lock-up.

Took a very small bit of modification, slight enlargement of the pedal box stud-holes (they were pretty ragged on 10628 to begin with, it looked like they were drilled wrong and hogged at the factory.) My TR6 MC needed the mounting holes slotted a bit to the outside slightly as well.

The booster actuator rod (threaded) was slightly too long, contacting the pedal arm; a couple of minutes with a hacksaw and die took care of the issue.

The universal clevis was also a bit large overall. I trimmed about 1/2" off of the ears and drilled a new pin hole, as the original is larger than the hole in the pedal arm.

The nice thing about the threaded actuator rod is that one can reasonably set where the brakes actuate. I was after something in between 1970's Ford and late-model Accord, and have gotten really close to my personal ideal.

All in all a very worthwhile project IMO. Next up, I may play with a M/C with a slightly smaller diameter, trade a little pedal effort for higher line pressures.

Cheers,

Mike

Last edited on 10-12-2009 07:21 pm by Dakota123