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> Jensen Healey & Jensen GT Tech > Ignition > Nothing happens in start position after working on dash wires |
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> Jensen Healey & Jensen GT Tech > Ignition > Nothing happens in start position after working on dash wires |
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| Nothing happens in start position after working on dash wires | Rate Topic |
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| Posted: 09-08-2020 06:41 pm |
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1st Post |
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gvictora Member
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Hello all. I bought chassis 12383 back in June. It ran well, but had a few minor problems. This weekend I replaced the dim dashboard lights with LED lights. I struggled some, and couldn't get the instrument panel all the way out, but managed to replace all the bulbs. The hardest part was reconnecting the speedometer cable which required sticking my hand way up high behind the dash. To do that I had to move a lot of wires in a "rat's nest" of wires behind the dash. After putting it all together I went to start the car and absolutely nothing happens when I turn the ignition to the start position, no click, no lights dimming, nothing. I assume I did something to the wiring under the dash. The lights all work, the radio comes on, I can hear the fuel pump clicking, everything else seems normal. The voltage gauge slowly comes up to about 12 volts and truthfully, I can't remember what the voltage gauge used to read before I started the car. This happened late last night, so I haven't really tried anything yet, other than I did try to jump start the car just to make sure it wasn't the battery. No difference. Any suggestions on where to start my search and how to proceed? Electrical stuff is always my least favorite thing and what I seem to be worst at. I'm frustrated because it's probably a simple thing, but I'm not really sure where to start. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
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| Posted: 09-09-2020 01:03 am |
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2nd Post |
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gvictora Member
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Well, I don't know why but after fiddling with a lot of wires and also directly jumping power to the starter from the battery, everything is now fine. I won't go through the whole process, but I think maybe my starter is getting weak and it just picked a bad time to not engage. I hope the wiring was never affected. I guess I'll only know with time. For now she starts every time.
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| Posted: 09-09-2020 08:25 am |
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3rd Post |
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subwoofer Member
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Welcome to the crazy world of Lucas Electrics. Gremlins everywhere. One of the major problems of the wiring harness is that high load circuits go through actual switchgear rather than relays, contact surfaces in the switches then go bad with use over time. Adding a relay to the solenoid circuit and switching the starter for a modern geared type will prevent later problems. -- Joachim
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| Posted: 09-09-2020 03:15 pm |
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4th Post |
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redracer Member
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the main problem(over 40 years ago) was the LOGIC box(on the side wall near where your left knee would be), that wouldn't let you start it unless the seat belts were on, doors closed, etc. Shorting out the #11 wire to the #12 wire bypassed this problem(the numbers are very small and may be hard to discern at first). Also, cutting the #4 wire(purple, which is constant fused power, will eliminate the annoying buzz from the box). This article has been discussed many times in previous threads, but I would have thought all the boxeses had been neutralized by now. Let us know if yours had not been, as there may still be some "new" owners who have not done this fix.
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