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Lash Russell Member 
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Hello all, I've been researching this a bit and I've found threads about when the key is put in the ignition and the fuel pump does not come on and then the key is turned to start and the starter does nothing it is usually because of a problem with the ISBWM (I think this is the acronym). I have this exact problem, has anybody been able to fix this properly? I read that by finding the ISBWM and jumping the #11 to #12 pins the seat belt warning system (and possibly other non essential systems) are bypassed and the car will then start. When doing this:
Lash |
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colinw59 Member 
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Hi Lash I've had two of these units fail on 15851. The last time I ran a small jump wire from pins 11 to 12 as you say, it solved the problem. Do not remove the OEM wires to these pins, just use a short length or wire, about 3/8" long, bent into a U shape to go from pin to pin on the female side of the connection. The ISBWM is a rectangular metalic box about 2" x 4", with a circular section (buzzer) on the top. It's located on the left side of the drivers footwell, about 18" 24" up from the floor near the bulkhead. It's retained by two philips head screws, and it's easier to run the jump wire if you remove it. I bought a working used unit as a spare, you may want to do the same. Good luck, Colin http://jhppg.com/gallery/74-Jensen-Healey-15851 |
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Lash Russell Member
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Thanks Colin, This sounds pretty straight forward. I will do this tonight and let you know how it goes. Much appreciated. Lash |
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Lash Russell Member
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Hi Colin, Follow up question. After jumping the wires from 11 to 12 do I re insert the wire bundle back into the ISBWM? I have jumped the wires without attaching the ISBWM and I have a starter now (progress) but no fuel pump. Thanks Lash |
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colinw59 Member
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With the jumper wire in place push home the connector to make all the other circuits. Colin |
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Lash Russell Member
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I've noticed there were allot of people reading this thread so I thought I'd update what has happened with the dreaded ISBWM caper. After help from Colin in detailing how to bypass the ISBWM I jumped the female contacts from 11 and #12, this did work. In fact this works even without replacing the ISBWM. I found another old ISBWM that I had but it must have been from a different vehicle (possibly the GT) because it only had I think 7 male pins, I tried it and it did not work. Just for fun I thought I'd try cleaning both of them with electrical contact cleaner (spray can) and after a good spray completely throughout the inside of the ISBWM and the female wire connections they both worked great. A magil elixer I call it, modern day snake oil!! In fact, even the buzzers work. I still keep the #11 to#12 bypass wire just in case. Lash |
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Greg Fletcher Administrator 
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Lash Russell wrote:Just for fun I thought I'd try cleaning both of them... My experience has always been that the Lucas electrical system has always ben very dependable and that simple maintenance with periodic cleaning of electrical connectors and application of dielectric grease can keep you running for decades with few problems. |
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dwalls1 Member
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Gee Whiz Greg, What's this maintenance, cleaning, and dielectric grease thing going to do for the Lucas jokes? Reliable Lucas electrics? Where is your conscience? :-) |
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