Home 
Home Search search Menu menu Not logged in - Login | Register

 Moderated by: Greg Fletcher
New Topic Reply Printer Friendly
Stromberg carb oil  Rating:  Rating
AuthorPost
 Posted: 05-06-2005 05:38 am
  PM Quote Reply
1st Post
Miles
Member
 

Joined: 05-06-2005
Location: San Diego, California USA
Posts: 3
Status: 
Offline
I have a book but it dosn't tell me anything about the oil you put in the stromberg carbs.. could someone please give me a heads up... what kind, how much...
thanks, Marty

Back To Top PM Quote Reply  

 Posted: 05-06-2005 03:11 pm
  PM Quote Reply
2nd Post
Jensen Healey
Super Moderator


Joined: 03-11-2005
Location: San Anselmo, California USA
Posts: 983
Status: 
Offline
Hi Miles,

I think 20-50 is the recommended damper oil. If you use thinner oil it will cause a lean condition on acceleration. There are folks who claim ATF works great and Singer sewing machine oil is fantastic, but I'd rather be rich.

Kurt

Back To Top PM Quote Reply

 Posted: 05-06-2005 03:13 pm
  PM Quote Reply
3rd Post
Mark Rosenbaum
Member


Joined: 03-12-2005
Location: Kingman, Arizona USA
Posts: 532
Status: 
Offline
Normally, the correct oil is the same as is used in the engine -- 10W40 or 20W50 depending on the ambient temperature.  This works quite well for the average car under normal conditions.

If conditions are not average, experiment until you find the fluid that gives best results when the throttle is suddenly opened under load.  The best way to make this determination is to use a fuel / air mixture meter during your tests, but if necessary you can 'tune by ear' and by feel.  If the transient fuel/air mix is too lean, you'll want a more viscous fluid (heavier oil).  If the transient fuel/air mix is too rich, you'll want a less viscous fluid (lighter oil).  If in doubt, always go for the heavier oil. 

CAUTION: do not use any fluid that absorbs water or your carbs will eventually be utterly destroyed by rust. 

As for how much oil to use, when the plastic cap-and-damper assembly atop the carb is unscrewed and removed, you'll see the hollow top of the vacuum valve sitting down in the bore thus revealed.  Just fill the hollow part of the valve (not the entire bore) until the oil approaches the top -- it's not critical, as any excess fluid will eventually be sucked into the engine and consumed -- then reinstall the cap-and-damper assembly.  You should notice some resistance to this reinstallation while the cap is still well above the body of the carburetor; if not, add more oil.

The oil level should remain constant indefinitely, though in practice you may need to top up the oil every month or when filling the fuel tank.  If the oil is consumed at a more rapid rate, the o-ring that seals the mixture needle adjuster is worn out and needs replacement.  This is a standard size (AS568A-010) o-ring made from nitrile rubber or the rather more expensive viton rubber, and should be available from any decent hardware store, Delta Motorsports (O19657), Moss (365-420), as well as in the standard carb rebuild kit.

If you need to replace one of these o-rings, you might as well do both of them, as it will be necessary to re-adjust the fuel mixture setting, and probably the balance, on the car's carburetors.

Back To Top PM Quote Reply  

 Posted: 05-21-2005 03:30 pm
  PM Quote Reply
4th Post
Andrew Akers
Member
 

Joined: 05-21-2005
Location:  
Posts: 2
Status: 
Offline
the oil in the stombergs should be just plain old Automatic Transmisson Fluid That seems to work the best SU uses the 20 w 50 and as I recall save the 20 w 50 for the engine on the 907 .. use ATF in the Strombergs

Back To Top PM Quote Reply

Current time is 01:33 am  
> Jensen Healey & Jensen GT Tech > Carburetors > Stromberg carb oil Top




UltraBB 1.172 Copyright © 2007-2011 Data 1 Systems