| Moderated by: Greg Fletcher | ||
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dwalls1 Member
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I drained the coolant when I removed the auxilliary housing, though I don't recall why. Any way, I refilled it after replacing the auxilliary shaft, took it out for a shakedown and it over heated. When I got it back to the house I was able to remove the radiator cap with a rag and the pressure released was only vapor, no fluid. I added about two quarts of anti freeze and the next time out it ran cool as a cucumber, just like I'd grown used to it doing. Apparently there was an air lock in the system as the radiator was full on start up. I don't recall any discussion of bleeding air from the system, or reading it in the manual. Have I missed something? Has anyone had a similar experience? I think I may have had the same routine when I replaced the water pump, but can't remember the specifics. It's that Oldtimers Disease I think. |
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JodyKerr Member 
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Things I always do when replacing the coolant in a vehicle: 1) Open the heater full bore so there's no air pockets there (not necessarily relevant in the JH unless your vin is in the 17500+ range and you have the vacuum switch and it works). 2) Let it idle up to temperature with radiator cap open. There's almost always an air pocket behind the thermostat. Generally you can see an obvious volume drop in the top of the radiator when the t-stat opens. Then do final top off. Jody |
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dwalls1 Member
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Your right on Jody, I forgot what I was doing in my anticipation. I could have saved myself some anxiety if I had thought it through some more. I have had the heater out of the loop for a while now, but I need to get it going again to try and extend the season. With the heater on, the side windows up and a stocking cap we might make it topless 'til spring. |
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