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| Moderated by: Greg Fletcher |
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| Engine Liner Re-Bore | Rate Topic |
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| Posted: 04-19-2005 01:27 pm |
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1st Post |
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Nigel Abrahams (UK) Member
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My engine rebuild strategy is to use JE Flat top Pistons (+0.030" oversize) and get the cylinder liners re-bored and honed to suit. What is the standard practice for this machining operation ? Should the liners be kept clamped in the block for the re-bore or removed and done indvidually ? My guess is that they should be kept in the block to avoid liner/nip problems etc.. Also, I have tried to remove the bearing studs in the bottom of the block but I have only managed to remove only one of the ten studs (using the double nut method and a 3ft breaker bar). I have a stud extractor tool I can use, but this will damage the studs and I don't want to go to the expense of buying new ones. Any advice on how to remove these studs, and should they be removed if the liners are re-bored in the block to give access to the bottom face of the block to serve as a datum for machining purposes?
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| Posted: 04-19-2005 03:41 pm |
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2nd Post |
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Judson Manning Member 
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Nigel, Your initial strategy is correct, however, many have found it necessary to hone all .030" rather than bore ~0.025" and hone the last 0.005". The liners tend to warp and wiggle under the stress of a boring bar. Delta stocks 0.005" o/s pistons as well as the 0.030". The overwhelming consensus is to leave the liners in the block as any jig or clamp would oblong the liner during machining. A number of people have machined a torque plate to hold eveything in place, and I know of a few people who have even heated the block with a 180^F water bath while completing the honing process. We found that with a few pieces of scrap aluminum we were able to hold the liners in place during the ridiculously long honing process. As for the 180^ water-bath...how perfect is practical? With 30 years of corosion, I can understand how difficult it can be to remove the studs. The double-nut method works fine for me, however, my machinist was able to work around the studs and I only remove the studs when the block needs to be decked. Judson
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| Posted: 04-19-2005 06:27 pm |
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3rd Post |
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Jensen Healey Super Moderator 
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Barry Spencer pulled my liners and clamped them into a custom made jig for boring. He said the jig cost him lots of $ to have manufactured. Sadly, he has closed his shop but your local Lotus shop may have a similar setup. Kurt
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| Posted: 11-03-2017 06:52 pm |
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4th Post |
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GWest Member
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I have recently acquired a liner retainer jig that is made from a sacrificed 907 head. The head has been machined so that its possible to bore or hone the liners while in place in the block.My intention is to donate this jig to the club to used as loaner if there is interest. Regards Greg West (Lake Oswego, OR.) gwest@jhkelly.com
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| Posted: 11-04-2017 09:21 pm |
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5th Post |
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subwoofer Member
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With fresh liners being around 60£ each, why bore to oversize? — Joachim
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| Posted: 08-01-2018 03:23 pm |
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6th Post |
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CDA951 Member
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GWest wrote:I have recently acquired a liner retainer jig that is made from a sacrificed 907 head. The head has been machined so that its possible to bore or hone the liners while in place in the block.My intention is to donate this jig to the club to used as loaner if there is interest. Regards Greg West (Lake Oswego, OR.) gwest@jhkelly.com Hi Greg, I emailed you a few days ago about the 907 head torque plate. I am interested in renting or borrowing it, so please PM or email me! Thank you, Chris
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