| Moderated by: Greg Fletcher | ||
| Author | Post | |||||||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
|
Jim DeClerck Member 
|
I suspect there is a small oil leak at the rear main seal. Can a guy fairly easily replace the rear main seal with the car raised on jack stands and with the bell housing removed? Does the fly wheel need to come off, too? Also does anyone supply replacement dust covers for the clutch operating lever? |
|||||||||
|
Arvin Appelman Member
|
The flywheel needs to come off and the seal is in a housing that is bolted to the block. Pay attention to how far the seal is pressed into the housing before you knock it out. If you press the new one in too far it will leak like a sieve. I learned this the hard way. Pete Bahr (aka Yellodog) has a boot kit for sale that looks like a slick setup. He has posted responses in this forum so you can contact him that way. He has also listed them on ebay. |
|||||||||
|
Judson Manning Member 
|
Jim, I would balance the 'smallness' of the leak with the 'largeness' of what you are contemplating. Step one is removing the driveshaft, gear shift lever and everything between the differential and the engine block. Then there is the 'while you are at it factor'. By the time you get to the rear seal, you might as well install a new clutch, pressure plate, TO bearing, turn the flywheel and balance the driveshaft. Not to mention change the transmission fluid and have someone give it the 'once over'. And no, I don't think the shift fork boot has been available since before I bought my JH in 1992. Now to really scramble your noodle... That leak from the main seal could be coming from the cam cover leaking down the header and appearing as if it came from the bellhousing. Worse yet, the seal could be fine and you could forget to put sealant on the flywheel bolts, and have to do it all over again like I did years ago! Judson |
|||||||||
|
Jim DeClerck Member
|
Thanks for the replies, Arvin and Judson. My reason for thinking the rear main seal is leaking is that the clutch doesn't take up smoothly so I suspect that oil from somewhere has gotten onto the clutch disk causing the problem. I guess it's possible the oil could also be coming from the front of the 4 speed. Hard to tell without getting the driveline down? |
|||||||||
|
colinw59 Member 
|
I saw a replica clutch boot for sale on Ebay by someone that has picked up on the fact that these are obsolete. I checked this morning and the item has closed, but I would check periodicaly. Good luck, Colin |
|||||||||
|
Dan (Florida) Member
|
Another thing to consider is which engine you have. The older engines have a rope type seal that will in the long run require the engine to be removed and probably torn down . The crankshaft bearing cradle I think has to be removed to replace this seal. If the oil pan and rear main bearing cap were easy to remove as in 55 chevys, this would be do-able. I don't think even the oil pan can be removed without pulling the engine on the older engines. It stopped me in my tracks last year. I think a belly pan under the engine with a drain line would serve better and be easier. My Audi TT had one for streamlining purposes and it didn't leak! Otherwise I keep a 2004 Busch / Cheney reelection poster under the car. Works fine!! Dan |
|||||||||
|
j23mau Member 
|
Greg, I just replaced my rear seal and forgot to put sealant on the bolts. I just noticed that it was leaking the other day, so it looks like I am in for a do over as well. The bolts you are referring to are the flywheel bolts, correct? Jeremy |
|||||||||