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Ian Brooks Member
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Bought a rolling chassis & will be doing a total restore with the 2.2 upgrade & the toyota 5 speed.Was wandering what fuel pump would be the best one to get .Have the dellorto 45,s.if that helps.Are there some that are more reliable than other,s.Thanks ,Ian |
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Judson Manning Member 
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Ian, After the cheap pump I bought 10 years ago from Autozone finally died last month, I upgraded to a Holly 'red' fuel pump available at most hot-rod shops. I'll post some pics of the pump installation, pressure regulator and braided lines later. This is a very similar set-up to Ron Earp's ITS car and can be considered somewhat 'overkill' as my old pump did just fine during in my limited racing adventures. The basic upgrade from the original pump is a solid-state version that eliminates the troublesome points. Personally, I went through 3 Lucas pumps and refuse to try them again, others have had fantastic luck. Generally speaking, you can adapt virtually any off-the-shelf pump designed for a mid-70s MGB to work with JH (that's how I ended-up with the above mentioned Autozone pump when Lucas#3 failed). The only spec you need to keep in mind is fuel pressure should be 1-4psi. Judson |
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Ian Brooks Member
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Thanks for the reply Judson,would any more than 4psi start blowing seals ,flooding or something.Ian |
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Greg Fletcher Administrator 
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2.5 - 3 pounds is recommended on Strombergs and Dellortos. The replacement SU pump with electronic head is a cool unit. |
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Mitch Ware Member 
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I went the expensive electronic SU fuel pump when I restored my car. It crapped out after two years. Mitch Ware #19670 |
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Greg Fletcher Administrator
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That's too bad, I've had good luck with the electronic ones. Did you try to repair the unit or know what caused the failure? |
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Mitch Ware Member
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Not sure what caused the failure. The symptom wasn't that it didn't pump at all, it just didn't pump very much. The car would idle all day long, but try and drive it and it would starve for fuel after about a mile. I could push the clutch in and coast, this would allow the pump to catch up, then I could drive another mile. I do have an inline filter both before and after the fuel pump, and the filter was not getting plugged up with debris, so I didn't think debris was the problem. I think I still have the pump in my garage somewhere. I replaced it with the non-electronic SU and it has been working fine for two years. Mitch Ware #19670 |
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Scott Robinson Member
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They don't get mentioned on here often, but I have five + years of trouble free road and track usage on (and can recommend) a Carter (universal model) that offers the ideal high volume flow at 2.5 -3 psi. Only thing it doesn't do is click! |
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j23mau Member 
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What is the model number scott? I need to replace one and don't have the original now anyways so staying true to form is no big deal to me. Thanks----Jeremy |
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Scott Robinson Member
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The Carter pump I have is P/N 152875. Can't find the paperwork, but that's what the label says. Scott |
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Judson Manning Member
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Holley Fuel Pump installation pics. I still need to install and plumb a 'real' fuel filter in place of the glass filter and rubber lines. Another project for another day... Attachment: FuelPump1.jpg (Downloaded 73 times) Last edited on 05-16-2007 04:15 pm by Judson Manning |
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Judson Manning Member
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View of engine compartment showing fuel pressure regulator (bottom of screen) and fuel pressure gauge. Regulator is set at 2-3psi as the Holley 'red' pump is factory set at 7psi and tends to overwhelm the floats and floods the engine. Hard tubing piped directly to the regulator and AN6 braided line to feed the carburators. Attachment: FuelPump2.jpg (Downloaded 77 times) |
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j23mau Member
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Judson, What is the reason for the fuel line going into the air filters? My guess is that if you use the original fuel pump or similar you may not need it. But I will be putting Dells on soon and the more information I have the better. Thanks Jeremy |
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Judson Manning Member
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Jeremy, The fuel line is not routed to the air-filters. Yes, there are a myriad of braided hoses in my engine bay, but that is the crankcase ventillation hose going to the air-filters. That line comes from the windshield wiper fluid resivoir which was converted to a catch-can. The fuel line can be seen at the bottom of the picture attaching to the pressure gauge, then to the pressure regulator. What is not visible is the hard line that is plumbed to the bottom of the regulator going back to the pump. As I mentioned in my initial posting this is somewhat of an 'overkill' solution. The only major difference between using the Holley pump and a Lucas-type pump is the need for the regulator. All the hard & braided lines are there primarly for safety when I go racing. The technical & safety inspectors tend not to trust British cars, much less 30 year-old plumbing. Judson Last edited on 05-16-2007 08:25 pm by Judson Manning |
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Greg Fletcher Administrator
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I think this was the last guy that routed his fuel line to the air filters (or maybe it was the fuel line to the distributor, I can't remember now)- |
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Jensen Healey Super Moderator 
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Judson, very sorry to see your car in flames. Next time run the heater hose to the air filters. |
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Judson Manning Member
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ROTFLMAO! Better yet, I was thinking of routing the fuel pump through the Halon fire suppression system so it sprayed raw fuel ON the engine and INTO the passanger compartment when activated! |
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timeforwalkies Member
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Talk about routing, check this out. This car was for sale on Ebay two weeks ago. Any thoughts? I did look at this car and while sweet in the photos......well, I didn't buy it. Not that it was bad, just to much bling and an effort to remove. Attachment: JH FUEL SET UP.JPG (Downloaded 134 times) |
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Joel Member
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i saw that too! what the heck? just what i want - my fuel pump exposed to the elements and being hit! is that a stock rear end? Last edited on 05-25-2007 01:23 am by Joel |
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Greg Fletcher Administrator
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I think the idea is- you get rear-ended, fuel sprays all over the place, lights up in a manner similar to the photo above, make insurance claim and buy electric car. |
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Ron Earp Member 
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I had mine mounted near the diff, up high and where I thought was out of the way. But when the driveshaft/transmission/diff exploded it destroyed the pump too and let all the fuel drain out of the tank. Had the hot exhaust been around (it was in many pieces all over the track) I'd have had a fire. My 260Z pump is in the "trunk" and has braided lines going on the inside of the car so that they can't get easily cut. Sounds silly, but standard race car practice. Put the pump in the trunk and use some metal line under the car, you'll be in good shape. R |
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