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JASPER
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I was wondering if anyone knows the weight (exact if possible) of a stock Jensen Healey Flywheel ?

I have balanced and lightened flywheel and I'm trying to figure out how much metal has been removed durring the lightening process.

Cheers all -

Ron Earp
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Anyone make an aluminum flywheel?

Tim Murphy
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I just took a 73 JH flywheel into the Post Office and measured it on their electronic postal scale. I got 20 lb., 13.6 oz. Subtract about .5 oz for wrapping paper and plastic bag. The ring teeth have one spot (about 3 linear inches) where the gear teeth are slightly worn from the starter not engaging and just spinning against the teeth. How you will account for that I don’t know.

So what is the weight of your lightened flywheel?

Ron Earp
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I've got one at work that is stock and intact. I can weigh it tomorrow.

 

Ron

Greg Fletcher
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A ran a Tilton aluminum flywheel on my previous JH that was a feathery 7 pounds. The Tiltons, sadly, are long gone but there is some other stuff floating around out there. I don't recommend it for a street car, BTW, the novely will wear off in a few months and you'll starting noticing how touchy it is.

Ron Earp
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For me that is no problem, mine is a race car only so the weight difference would be much apprecated, in fact, it is a huge deal.  I might inquire about having some made.

 

Ron

Scott Robinson
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A company named Fidanza used to make aluminum flywheels for Lotus Espirits that would be suitable for our cars, but I don't think they have inventoried them for quite a while. They would have the drawings, though so it maight be cheaper to order through them versus a pure custom.

In my experience it can be tough to get a machine shop to shave the stock wheel due to liability concerns. Most aren't interested, and those that will consider it want you to provide detailed drawings.

I sure wouldn't mind if my car would build revs faster and a lighter flywheel would help quite a bit. About halfway between the stock and a 7lb. Tilton would be very interesting to me. Let us know if you find something.

 

JASPER
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I had my Flywheel lightened and balanced by a proffesional machine shop in Los Angelas (San Fernando Valley) called 'The Balance Shop'

$80 to lighten and $20 to balance after the lightening -

They told me that they managed to take about 4lbs of metal off the thing - any more than that and they felt that it would loose structral integrity - and some other comments about crappy english steel quality that comes off in big chunks when you try to shave and lighten .......

If I started out at 21lbs approx that means I now have a 17lb flywheel - not sure who that translates in an increase in acceleration but I guess every bit helps -

I had planned on installing it on my 2.2L once built - but all my 2.2L parts are on Ebay right now so that ain't gonna happen - at least for a while ....

Once I dig it out of the garage - you'll be seeing it on ebay with all my other parts up for sale at the moment ... I'll also weigh it and get the exact specs-

cheers

James

Mark Rosenbaum
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Fidanza's latest (2004) online catalog lists an aluminum flywheel for the 1980-1990 2.2liter NT (non-turbo?) Lotus "Espirit" (sic), so it's possible these are still in production, or they might have a few in stock.  It's their P/N 122661, which weighs 8.5 pounds.  Possibly you might need to use their friction plate too, which is their P/N 229001.

According to some place called nolimitmotorsport.com the list price of the flywheel is $459, but they'll sell it to you for a mere $400.

Usual disclaimers, and I've never done business with either firm.


UPDATE: Fidanza, above, was originally entered as Firenza, due to a short-term memory failure on the part of the writer (me).  Sorry!

Last edited on 04-01-2005 03:05 pm by Mark Rosenbaum

Ron Earp
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Mark, got any contact info for those folks? $400 ain't cheap, but it'll cost me that to have one made.  A light flywheel for me in the lightest SCCA car in the class could helpa lot.  Hell, the SB Fords I build have 25lb flywheels and we get those down to 16-17 and they rev like you wouldn't believe.  A stock JH flywheel, is, even for the street, too heavy.  I'd think around 20lbs and maybe a little lighter ideal for street use. But that 8lb thing, I could use that!!!!

 

Ron

Brian Kelly
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Paeco also offers al. flywheels.  Fom their website it sounds like they have "blanks" which are then custom drilled for the application.  they offer both street and racing versions.  They are quite proud of them at $450-$520 ea. though.

http://www.paeco.com/fly1.html

Greg Fletcher
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None of this stuff is cheap. The Tilton flywheel was $475 back in the early 90's. Conversion Components in New Zealand also has something for the 907, but with the weak dollar the cost is closer to $700 now. I'd be more concerned about good quality than price in any event.

Ron Earp
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I just weighed my stock flywheel from a 907, no pressure plate etc., and it weighed in at 20.4 lbs.  It has the ring gear attached to it. 

JASPER
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Well I finally found my lightened/balanced flywheel -

It weighs in at exactly 16lbs - 25% lighter than stock ! pretty cool !

Looks awsome !! You'll find it for sale on Ebay as I listed it this morning -

thanx and cheers all. James

timeforwalkies
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So I just got hold of a lightened and balance flywheel.  I plan to install it during the winter.
I have noticed a couple of mentions regarding grease on the bolts I assume for torquing reasons.  But I have no idea the correct torque.
I was also wondering if there is a procedure for removal and installation available.  I did the clutch once and it was a pain, so any help in this area would be appreciated.
I will also weigh this unit and report back.
Thanks

Last edited on 10-25-2010 01:03 am by timeforwalkies

pbahr
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Y'all know, of course, that the really light flywheels will make for a rough idle engine.

Great for racing though....

YELODOG

subwoofer
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There are lightweight - reeeally lightweight - flywheels available from QED Motorsport in England. Not all that expensive, but has to be mated to a 7 1/4" racing clutch, so starting at the lights could be a bit of a challenge.

http://qedmotorsport.co.uk/qed-shop/lotus-907-/-910-/-911-/-912/flywheel-and-clutch

--
Joachim

timeforwalkies
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With the full upgrade to a 2.2 is it necessary to change the pressure plate and or clutch to deal with the additional power and torque?  I have noticed that I am getting a bit of clutch slipping when shifting under full power.  Not sure if this is due to weak pressure, adjustment, or oil leaking onto the flywheel from who knows where.
Still need info about torquing the flywheel when I install the new lightened unit.
Thanks again

pbahr
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I have a higher pressure plate and a racing disk - no problems.

If your clutch has oil on it, I would suspect that there would be grabbing and shudder rather than slipping, but I've never had that problem, so I can't be certain.

Flywheel securing bolt torque should be 48 lb-ft per Workshop Manual.

Workshop Manual is a good thing - you should get one.

Pete

timeforwalkies
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This is a lightened stock flywheel.  Probably in the 16 pound range.  I'll get back on that when I get it.

Getting back.  Just weighed it and it is between 14 and 15 pounds.  Don't have an ounce scale, so that will have to do.

If you don't mind.  Where did you get the pressure plate and disk?

Thanks for the torque information.  Is this dry, or with lube?  Any tips on removal and install?

Just watched a great TV show called "Horsepower TV"  Usually about V8s, modifications and producst.  But on this particular show they talked about the difference in lubricants that can be used for torquing and why.  Good stuff.  Motor oil, and molly lub,  will not give the desired result if a lubricant is required.  While you might reach the desired torque, you may not have reached the correct clamping force or "stretch" as they call it.  They recommend a product called "ARP Ultra Torque Lube"  Reaches the correct torque and clamping force at the same time.  A bit hard to explain.

Either way, I recommend this show.

Last edited on 01-10-2011 06:19 pm by timeforwalkies

pbahr
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I didn't purchase the items - they were included on the engine when I had it made for me.

Not certain about lube for torquing - Manual does not specify.  No tips, as I've not done the process.

I generally put light oil on bits I torque, but that might not be the best practice.



Pete Bahr
http://www.jhppg.com/peteskits.htm  

 


timeforwalkies
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There is quite a bit of information on the internet.  I googled "torquing bolts" and found all kinds of information.  Seems lubrication is important especially in conditions involving vibration and I would put the flywheel in that category.  After watching the Horsepower TV show I am going to be using a torquing lubricant.

timeforwalkies
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Not home yet, but it looks like about 3/8 inch has been removed from the back side.
The most interesting part is that this flywheel does not have a ring gear that has been shrunk on and pinned.  This one has the teeth ground into the flywheel.  Does anybody have any knowledge fo this.? My impression has been that all rings were shrunk in place.
Thanks,
TFW
PS.
So now I am a bit worried.  Not sure if I bought a great flywheel, or a flywheel for another car.  I got to thinking and I haven't seen any post about a fixed (ground into the flywheel) ring gear.
I checked on google and couldn't find anything at all.  The part numbers on the flywheel are DA 21785 and 5F3N,  Both are cast.
Does anybody have a loose flywheel sitting around that they could check the numbers on it and compare.  I don't want to remove the transmission, just to find out I have the wrong flywheel.
Thansk again,
TFW

Last edited on 11-30-2010 12:00 am by timeforwalkies

timeforwalkies
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I still don't have an answer for wet or dry when it comes to torque on the flywheel bolts.  Anybody have an answer?
Here is the address for the Horse Power show on ARP Ultra Torque:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6-XXVk_vwKw
Give it a watch.



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