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| ACCUSUMP | Rate Topic |
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| Posted: 05-23-2006 02:55 pm |
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1st Post |
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Dan Eiland Member
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I noticed that I can get the Accusump in a 1, 2 and 3 quart capacity. The ones I looked at came with the electric valve and pressure guage. What is the best size to put on a Jensen Healey with a 2.2L conversion street car? If I ever get my car back on the road my son would like to take it out on a track sometime. I figure if I ever get a chance at a track day somewhere I would let him do some track time. Other than those few times we might get a chance during a club meet, or some big event, where we could get some track time, it would only be used on the street. The difference in cost is so minor between the three Accusump sizes it would have no affect on which one to purchase. Does the rare time or two that it might see some track use warrant installing an Accusump at all and if so what size? Are there any special adapters or hoses needed to connect it to my JH engine and if so where would I purchase these parts? My opinion so far is it is worth installing if just for the ability to pre-oil the engine at start-up.
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| Posted: 05-24-2006 10:49 am |
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2nd Post |
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Harkes Member 
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Hi Dan, before Garry Kemp built my 2.2L engine we discussed this matter as well. I was in favour of the accu sump for the same reasons you have: 1) occasional track days 2) pre-oiling engine upon starting to prevent engine wear Regarding 1) Garry assured me it wasn't really necessary unless i wanted to seriously race it on track. However he did stress the importance of a baffled sump, oil restrictor to the head and improved drain back from head to block. The baffled sump will prevent dangerous oil surge when taking those high speed long curves. Regarding pre-oiling, which prevents engine wear upon start-up where usually most engine wear occurs: when your engine is in fresh condition and you have your stock points replaced for a pertronix ignitor or similar and/or in combination with an MSD6A or similar then i don't think you'd have trouble starting your engine and pre-oiling would help only very little. Note; with my new 2.2L engine i do have a new heavy duty gear reduction starter since the much higher compression would make starting with the stock starter tricky. When your engine fires up quickly, then there is hardly any engine wear. so, I ended up taking Garry's advice. Hope this helps. How is your project coming along? any new photo's? I would love to see your progress on the interior, engine (details?) and the everything else about your car. Good luck, Erik
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| Posted: 05-31-2006 04:31 am |
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3rd Post |
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pbahr Member 
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FWIW, my experience with YELODOG, which has: 11.1 Compression Ratio, 2.2 L, Electromotive (crank-fire ignition), larger Oil Cooler & other stuff is noted below. I have a 3 Qt Accusump with electric valve. Switch control from cockpit. Remote oil filter (big racing filter). Don't have any cranking problems with standard Starter Motor. Accusump is best investment I ever made (except, of course, the upgraded engine itself !). Depending on where you get the data, there is somewhere between 80% and 98% wear on an engine during start-up - this is major disagreement with Harkes. I always open the Accusump to the high pressure oil galley before I start the car. It also works great when I'm on the rqace track at Summit Point and others....... If you want to see the mounting arrangement, go to: http://shorpac.com/v-web/gallery/album62 That website also has all of the YELODOG goodies listed - just click on "Read YELODOG Upgrades*" (the upper center pix) and scroll down. . Of course, you have to design a piping arrangement, but I could help you with that. Bottom line: Install the 3qt. Accusump, you'll never regret it. Pete
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| Posted: 05-31-2006 07:44 am |
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4th Post |
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Harkes Member
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i don't see how we have a major disagreement...? i said in my earlier post engine wear occors the most upon start-up. Especially when you have trouble firing up at once. Accusump pre-oils before starting; in other words prevents engine wear. so i think we agree.. i just said when you have a fresh/rebuild engine with electronic ignitor or similar or even an uprated starter motor (heavy duty gear reduction) the chances your engine fires instantly is pretty high and therefore the chances on serious engine wear is much less then when it takes 3/4 times of starting attempts. on top of that accusump is a great solution for serious track driving as i said before..if you are into serious track driving. When you are not or just occasionally then would it really be necessary to go through the cost of an accusump whereas a baffled sump could help out to great extend? Depends on you budget i guess. yellodog is a fab car no doubt and like i said i myself am thinking of crankfired ignition because i think distributors even with electronic igntition is not ideal. Accusump? no, not yet anyway. I 'll drive my 2.2L 11.1 compression car first with with my baffled sump and i don't expect any problems on the road even when driving hard. but i will go to track with it and watch my oil gauge. And if get hooked on racing on track then accusump is first on my list for sure. happy motoring...summer is here
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| Posted: 05-31-2006 01:56 pm |
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5th Post |
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Ron Earp Member 
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Can't remember who it was, but fellow recently toasted his JH motor on a vintage event track day using standard pan. Oil starvation was the problem. If you plan to go on track with your JH I'd highly recommend the $200 for an Accusump. I prefer the manual valve Accusumps mounted on the transmission tunnel, but that might not be possible for those with a more street intent. If you have mechanical gauges you'll find that oil pressure sometimes takes longer than you think to come up to a nominal value. Particularily if you don't drive the car often, 5 seconds or longer, with the engine idling, can easily occur before getting some real pressure.
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| Posted: 06-01-2006 02:39 am |
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6th Post |
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pbahr Member
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Harkes, yes, we agree. I didn't see your earlier posts on the subject. You should not have any problems for street/road use. For track, get an Accusump, or really watch your oil pressure in the turns !!!! However, I think that Ron raises a very good point - it does take some seconds for most JH engines to build up reasonable oil pressure. I looked into pan baffles years ago, and could not find consensus on a design that really worked - that's why I went with Accusump. I have my solenoid activated via a switch on the center console, under that flap that covers the storage space. When running on a hot day, street or track, it doesn't take very long for the idle oil pressure to go to the low pressure of just a few psi. Under those conditions, if a 3 qt. Accusump is "ON", you will be adding an extra 2+ qts. of oil to the sump - not good. For street, I only turn the Accusump on when I start the engine. On the track, I turn it on when I leave the pits. then, I turn it off on my cool-down lap at sufficent rpm to get 60+psi in the system. A mechanical valve will not allow ease of accomodating these two conditions-I'm a fan of the solenoid, based on my experience. I can confirm that long sweeper turns will cause a drop in oil pressure, as experienced one day when I forgot to turn the switch on ;-( Crank-fire ignition will get rid of the hp robbing spark scatter you will experience due to timing belt flap/gear shaft to Dist shaft slop/point bounce etc. Just a few degrees at 7000 rpm will cause serious hp reduction. Not to mention the ease of setting proper timing curve vs rpm. Also has rev limiter adjustment. Pete
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| Posted: 06-01-2006 12:34 pm |
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7th Post |
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Ron Earp Member
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pbahr wrote:
I can too and wrote about that on our last test day for the JH #38. I could simply watch the oil pressure flicker about 10 psi, and more, in a long (about 8 seconds) right hand turn at Roebling. Not confidence inspiring considering with the stock oil cooler and a modified 4 core stock brass radiator heat was still high and oil pressure at 3-6k was only around 35-40psipsi. Stock, but baffled oil pan. I think messing around with a 907 motor on the track, with stock oil cooler, and with no Accusump, is not such a good idea. You'll probably be okay most times, but sooner or later something will go boom. Ron Last edited on 06-01-2006 12:38 pm by Ron Earp |
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| Posted: 06-01-2006 05:00 pm |
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8th Post |
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pbahr Member
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Sure Ron, BOOM is no good. I'm sure you now have an Accusump. Actually, I don't have overheating problems. Use 19 row oil cooler, no Shroud and a 3 row radiator. Trick on the track is to drive fast to get more air flow thru the Radiator! Have electric fan for city driving. Pete p.s. Ron, you gotta go faster - that right hander is worth no more than 6 seconds ;-)
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| Posted: 06-01-2006 05:15 pm |
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9th Post |
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Ron Earp Member
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Bear in mind we're still testing the car, not racing it yet, so any comment I make on times are from just driving around and watching gauges. Although we've got the Accusump plumbed now, due to a stupid mistake it couldn't help us last weekend unfortunately.
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| Posted: 06-01-2006 09:05 pm |
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10th Post |
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pbahr Member
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I'm only yanking your chain about the time - I don't know the track. What venue will you be racing in? Yeah, I recall taking a long time to plumb the Accusump, and lots of $ on fittings. Finally worked out great though. Pete
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| Posted: 07-28-2008 01:42 pm |
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11th Post |
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Selectbob Member
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Hi. Can anyone help with my Accusump problem? I have just built a racing Jensen Healey, 2 race meetings( in the UK) so far and same problem both times. I have a manually switched 3qt Accusump, plumbed straight into the main gallery, which seems to function fine. However, if I use anymore than an extra pint or so of oil it is thrown out thro' the breather, any less than this and I suffer pressure drop on turns. This problem is not apparent at road speeds where oil pressure is steady 60psi plus when hot. Is the accusump too big?? with the Accusump charged the oil doesn't register on the dipstick, but Accusump empty then it is way over full. Any ideas?? Bob Trotter
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