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| Engine Damper | Rating: 
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| Posted: 02-10-2013 08:14 pm |
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1st Post |
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Jensen Healey Super Moderator 
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My engine damper reads 13lbs on a scale when moved through it's range of motion. Curiously my spare also reads 13lbs resistance. I figure they are both past their useful life. Even though my engine is balanced and runs smoothly there is still motion allowed by the motor mounts. I found this on Ebay and have been using it for about 500 miles: http://www.ebay.com/itm/6-Engine-Torque-Damper-Kit-Silver-UNIVERSAL-EK-EG-SI-/290860866985?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item43b8a89da9&vxp=mtr It has urethane cones inside to allow movement in both directions. Resistance increases as the cones are compressed. It seems to work fine. I haven't noticed any additional harshness or vibration. Your mileage may vary. Kurt
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| Posted: 03-27-2013 03:54 pm |
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2nd Post |
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pbahr Member 
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Hi Kurt, Congratulations. It seems that you found a damper that works well for you. I've found that many JH owners do not have the time or mechanical ability to develop solutions as you have done. Nine years ago when I did the design of my Damper Kit, I tested the Ingalls Stiffy damper # 93130 http://www.ingallseng.com/93130-stiffy-etd-universal-no-brackets.html. The damper you reference seems identical and is probably a knock-off from the Stiffy. I did buy a sample for testing and determined the following: - Price was a bit high at $150 - 175. If I had found the price to be $75-80 including shipping, I don't think I would have come to a different conclusion. - Re-work of the mounting Brackets was difficult and very costly. A full high quantity manufacturing run of these parts was not in the cards as total quantity did not seem likely for the future. - It required careful positioning during installation to be certain it was in the "neutral" position. Ease of installation is a self-imposed requirement for my Kits. - Off neutral it was much stiffer than the design values of the OEM. - Resistance around the neutral position was much too low. You want the resistance to vary as compression/extension velocity, and not distance from neutral. Ideal resistance is about 50lb force at compression rate of 2 in/sec. This keeps the engine movement under control even with minor shaking. In any case, I'm pleased that you solved your problem with the Honda damper - keep up the good work ! ! ! YELODOG
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| Posted: 03-28-2013 12:14 am |
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3rd Post |
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Jensen Healey Super Moderator
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Hi Pete, I wouldn't have paid much more than $30 bucks for this jury rigged solution. It is a direct fit though and if the firewall doesn't crack seems to work fine. They do use an upper torque damper in many cars. http://www.autopartsway.com/Part.cfm?W0133-1781535/DEA&gclid=CIqSpdiCnrYCFQzhQgod_zQA-g By my thinking, the engine can only move as the motor mounts flex. Maybe your next engineering triumph??? My engine is fully balanced so there's not much vibration anyway.
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| Posted: 03-28-2013 02:58 am |
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4th Post |
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pbahr Member
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Hi Kurt, Like I said, your solution works for you and that's what's important. When I was in process of tuning my engine, there was a very long time where I had really rough running. I was quite surprised how far the enging rotated - at the Damper location it was probably 1 inch or more. Long time ago and it's tough to recall exactly. There are lots of cars with various dampning devices on the engine. I've had two myself: Porsche 911SC (hydraulic shock) & Dodge Neon ACR (solid "dog-bone" like your latest link). YELODOG
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