Home 
Home Search search Menu menu Not logged in - Login | Register

 Moderated by: Greg Fletcher
New Topic Reply Printer Friendly
The rope seal  Rate Topic 
AuthorPost
 Posted: 05-07-2012 04:56 am
  PM Quote Reply
1st Post
chrisl
Member


Joined: 09-21-2006
Location: Perth, Australia
Posts: 113
Status: 
Offline
OK

I have the old Mk1 engine with the *joyful* rope seal.

Engine is out of the car, block split, all other seals re-fitted except for El Ropo. Soaked in oil and threatened to convert it to a noose but naturally it's not cooperating.

Is there any trick(s) to getting this thing in?

Back To Top PM Quote Reply  

 Posted: 05-07-2012 02:10 pm
  PM Quote Reply
2nd Post
Brett Gibson JH5 20497
Member
 

Joined: 03-17-2005
Location: Hilton, New York USA
Posts: 798
Status: 
Offline
Chris, sorry I cant give you a pointer on how to install the seal but I can recommend on how to get the best life out of it, always use oil with ZDDP in it, that will lube the seal and give it longer life regular oil's dont and you will end up doing the job again.

Brett

Back To Top PM Quote Reply

 Posted: 05-08-2012 06:45 pm
  PM Quote Reply
3rd Post
Dan (Florida)
Member
 

Joined: 03-16-2005
Location: Ormond Beach, Florida USA
Posts: 97
Status: 
Offline
Had this joy a year ago and found no advice that worked. The problem is that the seal rope is just too small for the groove it sits in and just mashing it in with the crank shaft wont solve the leak. Plus the seal needs to be mashed in first and then trimmed with a little sticking up on the ends. Thats very hard to do with  the crankshaft in place. No room to trim. I built a pressing tool that allows you to press and trim at the same time . Its just a piece of round stock machined to the same diameter as the  crankshaft bearing journal .  After pressing and trimming there will likely be a void between the seal and the bottom of the groove it rides in. This space must be filled in with some sort of shimming material (brass or aluminum)that will support the back of the seal when it gets hot. Shim this groove until the crankshaft binds and then remove until it spins freely.  Soaking in oil doesn't seem to work.  I cant stress enough doing a good job on this as the engine has to come back out and disassembled to change   this seal.  Not fun.

This rope seal is made by Ford Motor company. Things that say Ford are about one fourth the cost of those that say Lotus or Jaguar.

Also make sure the main bearing clearance is minimal to prevent the crank from whipping around.

hth  Dan

Back To Top PM Quote Reply  

 Posted: 05-12-2012 01:19 am
  PM Quote Reply
4th Post
DDrake
Member
 

Joined: 05-09-2011
Location:  
Posts: 39
Status: 
Offline
I had the same problem
!Had the engine rebuilt and the new rope seal leaked like a sieve after about 100 miles .
I called Delta  and they referred me to a guy in California  who  talked with my engine rebuilder . My guy was blown away with how  helpful this gentleman was NOW 5000 (TROUBLE FREE mILES LATER ) it still doesn't leak .
Call Delta  and they will refer you

Back To Top PM Quote Reply

 Posted: 05-17-2012 02:53 am
  PM Quote Reply
5th Post
chrisl
Member


Joined: 09-21-2006
Location: Perth, Australia
Posts: 113
Status: 
Offline
Well, it seems the trick is to get the correct part in the first place. Tt is a Ford seal, which I found out after buying a genuine Lotus part (number A907E60112, if you ever need to track it down...).

It comes with a metal shim which is used to trim the ends of the two pieces of the seal, some vague instructions and a sachet of goop labelled 'Ford...'!

The block needs to be split to get it into place, so far the labour costs a lot more than parts, Lotus or otherwise.

All fun.

Back To Top PM Quote Reply  

Current time is 04:43 pm  
> Jensen Healey & Jensen GT Tech > Engine & Transmission > The rope seal Top




UltraBB 1.172 Copyright © 2007-2011 Data 1 Systems