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| Moderated by: Greg Fletcher | Page:   1 2 3 |
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| Lotus 5 speed transmission | Rating: 
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| Posted: 04-13-2020 08:32 pm |
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41st Post |
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DonBurns Member
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Mike at LotusBits explained pivot attachment. Turns out you use one of the nose seal housing bolts - but I had to go find a longer bolt. Social distancing at McFadden-Dale is impossible. Also got the ring dowels out. Now I need to go find a clutch alignment tool, because of course not the same spline as on the stock clutch plate. It's been awhile since I replaced a throwout bearing. This one came as two separate parts. The stock bearing is the same on both sides, but the Toyota one is different. I assume the heavy flat metal plate side would be the clutch side (as pictured), but can someone verify? I'll try to post pictures later. For some reason can't attach regardless of how small I make them. Thanks-
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| Posted: 04-14-2020 12:03 am |
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42nd Post |
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DonBurns Member
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Fortunately I thought to test fit the bellhousing to the block after I fitted the new clutch. Some mods are needed. The stud at the bottom of the oil pan needs to be removed, which is no big deal, but also the thin metal blank plate doesn't really match up. Need to trim to fit, and add some mounting holes so it doesn't rattle.
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| Posted: 04-14-2020 12:05 am |
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43rd Post |
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DonBurns Member
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Here is the picture of the clutch arm pivot. At least I think it's going to post. Attachment: pivot_smaller.jpg (Downloaded 89 times)
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| Posted: 04-15-2020 11:12 pm |
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44th Post |
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DonBurns Member
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Another hurdle, and a technical question. Because of the 1/2 inch spacer between the bell housing and transmission, the original bolts are 1/2 inch too short. They are all the same length, but there is some variation in the distance from the bellhousing surface and the transmission surface, and there also seems to be some variation in how deep into the transmission case the threads start. So a few of the bolts might have enough thread purchase, but some barely contact the threads and would probably strip if I tried to tighten. So I went looking for longer bolts. I researched and the original bolts are "aluminum grade" with the designation of two little lines on the bolt head. I believe they are standard steel with some sort of coating? or maybe coated SS - not sure. My best source locally is McFadden-Dale hardware, and they don't have these. I was going to substitute standard SS which I understand is not ideal. Unfortunately the thread is #10 - 1.25, and they only carried fine thread up to #8. The only fine thread #10 available are in black oxide. Can these be used in aluminum? If not, does anybody have a source for Aluminum Grade Bolts? Thanks
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| Posted: 04-15-2020 11:44 pm |
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45th Post |
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discogodfather Member 
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Wouldn't it be ok to use a gold zinc plated Grade 8? That's what I replaced my bellhousing hardware with last clutch job. Stainless (usually the Chinese stuff) is just 300 series, which doesn't have very good load bearing properties, it's more about corrosion resistance. There are some fancier SS's but it's expensive and hard to find.
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| Posted: 04-16-2020 12:24 am |
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46th Post |
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DonBurns Member
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If you mean on the 4-speed, then yes, SAE Grade 8 would be correct, but the 4-speed transmission itself is steel, not Aluminum like the Toyota W58 and SAE, not metric. I think the BMW 5-speed is also Aluminum? In any case, the gold anodized grade 8 in metric size 10-1.25 were not available where I looked (It would be metric grade 10.9)
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| Posted: 04-18-2020 09:34 pm |
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47th Post |
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DonBurns Member
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All put together, but mount does not fit and is a little narrower than tunnel at the mounting point. I believe the floors on this car were replaced at some point. I'm wondering if the tunnel dimensions got tweaked then. Anyway, I apparently will need to get creative with fabricating a mod to the mount. I don't have a welder, so will have to find someone local willing to help.
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| Posted: 04-22-2020 05:20 pm |
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48th Post |
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DonBurns Member
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Done! The rear bracket took some work as the one supplied with the kit would not work. I ended up using the original. Cut off some at both ends then fabricated plates to match the rubber isolater and to strengthen the through the body mounts. Also the holes in driveshaft didn't match the differential. Hardest part was maneuvering the transmission into place by myself. I used to just get underneath and muscle it in, but I'm a little older now. Need a different shifter as the one that came with transmission too short - barely above the tunnel. Does anyone have a suggestion? I am looking at the "short shifter" available on EBay. Also have to take to muffler shop. Bung for O2 sensor now in wrong place.
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