| ||||
| ||||
| Moderated by: Greg Fletcher |
|
||||||||||||||
| Alternator removal and refit | Rate Topic |
| Author | Post |
|---|
| Posted: 02-25-2011 07:12 pm |
|
1st Post |
|
rossjfox Member
|
Can someone please explain in detail how to remove and refit the distributor? The board is filled with warnings about "never doing this under penalty of death". I suspect that's a bit of exageration. Bottom line is that my distributor needs cleaning and rebuilding as the weights are sticking, so I'm not sure I have much of a choice. The manual talks about starting with cylinder 1 at TDC, and marking the position of the rotor prior to removal so it can be lined back up upon reinstallation. No real details after that, just remove and reinstall. So what needs to be done to tackle the job? What pitfalls should be looked for & how do I avoid them? What makes this such a PIA? Access looks difficult, but can this be done without removing the carbs? Thanks in advance. Ross Last edited on 02-25-2011 11:48 pm by rossjfox |
||||||||||||||
| |||||||||||||||
| Posted: 02-25-2011 10:53 pm |
|
2nd Post |
|
Ron Mau Member
|
Hi Ross, The alternator isn't that much trouble and you don't have to remove the carbs. There are 3 bolts that secure the alternator. The one on top that you can see, one under the alternator that secures it to the adjustment bar and one that secures the adjustment bar to the engine block. The wires should just be a push fit unless you have upgraded the alternator. Be sure and make notes on the wiring if it is not the push on variety,because I won't be any help then. It's a relatively easy job to do. Ron Mau 16367 Last edited on 02-25-2011 10:53 pm by Ron Mau |
|||||||||||||
| ||||||||||||||
| Posted: 02-25-2011 11:47 pm |
|
3rd Post |
|
rossjfox Member
|
Thanks Ron! But I had a total brain burp! I meant to say DISTRIBUTOR, not alternator. Maybe the question makes more sense now. Sorry! Ross (original post edited) Last edited on 02-25-2011 11:49 pm by rossjfox |
||||||||||||||
| |||||||||||||||
| Posted: 02-26-2011 01:31 am |
|
4th Post |
|
JodyKerr Member 
|
Well now that is a hose of a different colour! So abandon all hope ye who enter here, or some such. Actually, it can be done without a lot of anguish so long as you are patient. Do the TDC thing. Then remove your air filters (I'm assuming it's a strongest set up and you've put k&n or similar air filters on it). Remove the distributor cap and pull it back towards the firewall. Pull the rotor off as well. Then loosen the 7/16 nut at holds the distributor in place. It will eventually want to pop out. Then pull it straight back towards the firewall then wiggle it clear of the carbs. It's a patience game.
|
|||||||||||||
| ||||||||||||||
| Posted: 02-26-2011 01:35 am |
|
5th Post |
|
JodyKerr Member
|
Dang, pardon the wacky typos. Still figuring out the autocorrect on this iPad. Jody
|
||||||||||||||
| |||||||||||||||
| Posted: 02-26-2011 05:53 am |
|
6th Post |
|
Art DeKneef Member
|
Also you want to note the bottom position of the shaft. There is a "key" so to speak on the bottom that fits into a "keyway" inside. The key has to slide into the keyway when installing the distributor. If the distributor doesn't fit all the way down inside, this is usually the reason why. Also check the distributor o-ring and replace if needed. Forgetting to put the o-ring back on will cause oil to leak through and cause problems later. Art
|
|||||||||||||
| ||||||||||||||
| Posted: 02-26-2011 03:58 pm |
|
7th Post |
|
rossjfox Member
|
Thanks. I knew this couldn't be as bad as some said. Ross
|
||||||||||||||
| |||||||||||||||
| Posted: 02-26-2011 04:42 pm |
|
8th Post |
|
SpeedyMitch Member 
|
rossjfox wrote: I knew this couldn't be as bad as some said. Having just gone through this procedure some things I might add... You will need to reset the timing once you get the new distributor installed. If you are happy with your current timing you should mark it on the pulley prior to making any changes. Be ready with your timing light when you first start it. It looks like you have a '74 so this may not apply. A few of us have noticed that our (early engine?) distributor is 180-degrees "off" (i.e. #1 cylinder wire is on the opposite side of the distributor cap from what is typical and documented). As recommended, I marked everything as I took it apart and was careful to line things up when I put it back together. Last edited on 02-26-2011 04:43 pm by SpeedyMitch |
|||||||||||||
| ||||||||||||||
| Posted: 02-27-2011 07:07 pm |
|
9th Post |
|
pbahr Member 
|
As I recall, the keyway is off-set on the bottom, and thus will only seat when rotated to the correct position. It can not be assembled 180 degrees off. Pete Bahr
|
||||||||||||||
| |||||||||||||||
| Current time is 10:28 pm | |
| > Jensen Healey & Jensen GT Tech > Engine & Transmission > Alternator removal and refit | Top |
