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| help with oil pan plug | Rating: 
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| Posted: 11-27-2008 04:57 pm |
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1st Post |
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rossjfox Member
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Folks, I'm trying to do my first oil change on my JH since acquiring it this past summer. The engine is newly rebuilt, but I don not know the history of oil changes since the rebuild. The problem i'm having is removing the drain plug! I've tried a breaker bar and impact wrench with no success. Looking at the plug. There appears to be a black seal, and what looks like blue or green locktite. I'll say this, its never leaked! But i'd rather be able to remove it and deal with a leak than the situation I have now. Any suggestions as to how to remove the plug? A torch maybe? Any advice would be helpful. Thanks in advance. Ross Attachment: DSCN5155.JPG (Downloaded 319 times)
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| Posted: 11-28-2008 05:50 pm |
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2nd Post |
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Gary Martin JH 15371 Member
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Ross, first I'd be sure you are turning it in the right direction. To loosen it would be counter clockwise looking at your picture. Be sure you have the right size socket, and use a 6 point socket for better grip. There should not be any locktite, but if they did use the medium strength blue locktite it should not be that hard to lossen. It could also be blue RTV. I'm not sure I would use any heat. If you did, I would only use a butane torch set low and gently heat around the plug, not the plug itself. Be carefull not to catch anything on fire. Good luck. Gary
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| Posted: 11-28-2008 07:10 pm |
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3rd Post |
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Jensen Healey Super Moderator 
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The original plug requires a 3/4 Whitworth wrench which is about 23mm. I filed mine down to 22mm so I could use a socket on it. Try some freeze-off on the plug. Good luck.
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| Posted: 11-29-2008 01:30 am |
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4th Post |
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rossjfox Member
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Thanks for your advice. I've been working on cars for years - definitely turning it counter-clockwise. For what it's worth, it's most closely accepting a 17mm socket. Not quite perfect, but 17mm is closest. I don't have whitworth wrenches to try. But at 17mm, the plug may not be original. If all fails, what do you think of drilling through the center of the plug, draining the oil, and then tapping the plug to fit a new smaller plug? Ross
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| Posted: 12-02-2008 12:04 am |
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5th Post |
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Lash Russell Member 
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Hi Ross, I've had this problem a couple of times. The brass plug will only get worse as time goes by. It was a while ago but the last time I battled with the oil drain plug I ended up drilling a hole through the side of the plug and tapping a puch into the hole then using this like a wrench to turn the plug out. Not an elegant solution but effective. After that, install a new steel plug (Delta has them, probably others as well). When I ordered from Jim at Delta I also got the seals. Hope this helps a bit, Lash
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| Posted: 12-03-2008 05:06 pm |
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6th Post |
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Greg Fletcher Administrator 
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Those drain plugs can really cause headaches. On my old JH, it seemed like it was welded to the block. I would add that when you do get it out and install a new plug, don't over tighten and always use anti-seize on the threads. Dissimilar metals have a tendency to corrode and seize up.
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| Posted: 12-04-2008 02:22 am |
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7th Post |
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rossjfox Member
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Thanks. I ordered a set of Whitworth wrenches and some freeze-off. So I'm going to keep working on it. Hopefully, will have success without drastic measures. Ross
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| Posted: 12-05-2008 12:52 am |
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8th Post |
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Judson Manning Member 
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Ross, I'm in agreement with your blue loctite observation. If there is a "safe" way to hit the plug with some heat and melt the plastic it should back off with ease. You'll need something concentrated, hot and fast since heat will propigate ridiculously fast through the aluminum pan. Of course for obvious liability reasons I have to say there is no "safe" way of heating up a pan of flammable liquids! The Rube Goldberg solution is to remove the timing belt, and using another old timing belt and an electric drill, spin the accessory cog to run the oil pump manually and pump/drain the oil through the oil coller lines. Judson
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| Posted: 12-05-2008 04:00 am |
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9th Post |
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Greg Fletcher Administrator
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Or use a Mityvac 7201 to suck the oil out the dip stick tube, I use this on all my cars, it's the greatest. http://www.mityvac.com/pages/products_fee.asp
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| Posted: 12-05-2008 06:03 pm |
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10th Post |
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Mitch Ware Member 
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Hey Greg, have you ever used the Mityvac to suck the oil out of the exhaust side cam cover before removal? Mitch Ware - #19670
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| Posted: 12-05-2008 06:25 pm |
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11th Post |
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Jensen Healey Super Moderator
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Hi Mitch, How would one get the tube in there??? Kurt
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| Posted: 12-06-2008 08:19 pm |
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12th Post |
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rossjfox Member
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Love the mityvac solution! Without removing the plug, it'll never leak! :) Ross
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| Posted: 12-06-2008 11:14 pm |
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13th Post |
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Jensen Healey Super Moderator
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I had a commuter car with a frozen tranny plug caused by clorinated oil additives, (Dura Lube). My 1/2" rachet stripped when I tried a 3 foot pipe on the handle. I never did get it loose. Thank goodness it was only a SAAB!
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| Posted: 12-09-2008 01:05 pm |
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14th Post |
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smcmanus Member 
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Before I lift the whole car for an oil change, I raise the back of my JH on the lift so that gravity drains the cam tower forward. Good Luck Steve
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| Posted: 12-09-2008 01:20 pm |
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15th Post |
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Mitch Ware Member
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Jensen Healey wrote: Hi Mitch, I guess I forgot that the filler is on the intake cover, lol Damn old age! Mitch - #19670
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| Posted: 12-10-2008 03:40 pm |
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16th Post |
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Lash Russell Member
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Steve, This is genious at its purest and simplest form. I've never thought of this, should work not only for oil changes (getting old oil out) but also to reduce the mess of removing exhaust cam covers for maintenance. Lash
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| Posted: 12-12-2008 11:22 pm |
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17th Post |
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Greg Fletcher Administrator
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The mityvac is also great for removing old brake fluid from a brake reservoir. Just stick the tube in and it literally vacuums out the old fluid in moments.
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