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| Where do I lift the engine from? | Rate Topic |
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| Posted: 02-24-2007 02:49 pm |
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1st Post |
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dschiri1 Member
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I'm getting ready to lift my engine and tran out of my JH, Where is the best place to lift from. Where is the engine and trans mission balance point. I would like to take both the engine and trans out at the same time. Is it adviseable or should I take them out one at a time? Thanks david
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| Posted: 02-24-2007 05:25 pm |
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2nd Post |
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Judson Manning Member 
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David, After doing it a number of times myself, I do not suggest pulling out the engine with transmission attached. Of course getting to all the bellhousing bolts requires a 20" long socket extension which makes your initial idea atractive. The engine is tall, heavy, made from soft aluminum, and the engine bay is cramped; all making for a challenging removal. My suggestion is to pull the transmission from underneath along with the starter, clutch and flywheel. While you are at it, remove the steering shaft and disconnect the headers from the exhaust system. It also helps to remove the cam towers, intake manifold, water pump and auxillary housing from the engine as well as everything on the firewall plus the radiator. Once you've removed all that wieght and have enough room, you have a number of options from where to attach a chain or sling. Any of the 6mm or 10mm studs make good candidates, one at front and rear, with two more attachments for safety will suffice. When you do get the hoist positioned, remove the hood support to get some room for the lift over the radiator support. Good luck with it, Judson
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| Posted: 02-25-2007 01:51 pm |
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3rd Post |
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Ron Earp Member 
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Having worked with Judson I agree with what he says. And, having pulled my motor in and out more than I care to remember, and the transmission, you can do what you suggest as well. If you go that route just be sure to use multiple attachment points around the engine/transmission. Alternatively an easy thing to do, believe it or not, is to lift the car off the engine. If you undo your exhaust, all lines going to the motor etc., you can drop the suframe out of the car by undoing four bolts and leave the engine attached to the subframe. I've done this as well and it is pretty painless. Here's my helpers doing that job:   Last edited on 02-25-2007 01:58 pm by Ron Earp |
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| Posted: 02-26-2007 01:17 am |
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4th Post |
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Mitch Ware Member 
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I did mine the same way Ron suggests, no trying to get input shafts lined up to mate the tranny to the engine, no trying to bolt on the exhaust header with no room to work, etc.  Mitch Ware - http://home.nycap.rr.com/mware/
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| Posted: 02-26-2007 09:40 am |
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5th Post |
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Harkes Member 
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I agree with Ron and Mitch. Only need to loosen 4 bolts of the subframe, disconnect exhaust, brake lines etc and lift up your car. It can be done with 2 persons easily and less chance of damaging the car when hoisting the engine with trannie. good luck erik
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| Posted: 03-19-2014 05:57 am |
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6th Post |
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Tom Bradley Member
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From my recent experience, I would not recommend engine removal by lifting the body from the subframe. When I read the above description, I considered doing this since I was planning to redo the front suspension and replace the (thoroughly trashed) subframe mounts. But I decided against it because I could not find any attachment points that I would trust to support the body weight without worrying about damage. But the real reason I am against it at this point was my experience in putting the subframe back into the car. Even with the subframe completely bare except for the new isolators getting it lined up with the frame bolt holes was a major task taking several days. Compared to this, lining up the engine with the transmission was fairly easy. I cannot imagine how I would get everything lined up when lowering the car onto the subframe fully loaded with the engine and suspension. I found that lining up the engine and tranny was much easier if I used two hoists on the engine: the main one attached to the (Stromberg) intake manifold, the other at the front of the engine. These two, along with a jack under the transmission make it fairly easy to get the two lined up. Once the mating faces are equidistant apart on all sides, the two slide back together fairly smoothly with some jogging of the angle of the crankshaft to get the shaft angles lined up. Having a front anti-sway bar installed also was a help since it gives the front of the transmission someplace to rest when disconnected from the engine.
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| Posted: 12-03-2020 04:03 pm |
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7th Post |
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DonBurns Member
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I tried something different this last time when mating the tranny. I generally have to do alone. In the past I have put tranny on my chest and wrestled it in with my feet and arms. Would have been nice to have someone to turn the driveshaft to get the spline to line up. I was younger then, so this time I supported engine at about the right angle and used a bunch of blocks (my Giant Jenga set) to bit by bit raise the front and back of the tranny to the right height and angle so that gap between bellhousing and engine was even. Then just had to slide tranny forward a couple of inches. Took an hour or so of raising a couple inches at a time. Worked for me.
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| Posted: 12-04-2020 03:14 pm |
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8th Post |
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noomg Member
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Anybody notice what's sitting next to Ron's Jensen-Healey? It looks like a Ford GT 40 or at least some kind of a replica.
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