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| Moderated by: Greg Fletcher | Page:   1 2 3 4 |
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| Darth V8Rs project | Rating: 
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| Posted: 05-25-2025 10:09 pm |
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61st Post |
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redracer Member
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If the nose of the impeller is not touching the back of whatever, then it's definitely NOT the 1st or 2nd generation. My guess then would be the 3G, but whatever it is is better than the original(1G) seal, so you should not have to worry about an "explosion".
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| Posted: 05-28-2025 01:35 am |
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62nd Post |
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vnavaret Member 
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Arrrgh! Another delay on the Healey engine. =:-( Got a call from the machinist - He found a crack in my head after skimming it. <mumble> It is a relatively benign crack, from a water jacket opening. Apparently small, but of course I do not want to permit it to spread. I could take a chance and install the head as is, but I would be waiting for my motor to puke coolant into the combustion chamber. I told him to Heliarc it and then reskim it. He said it would add to the lead time on my motor. Well, the sun is only expected to burn for another three billion years, I guess I can reassemble my motor IN THE DARK. Grrr, Vance Last edited on 05-28-2025 01:37 am by vnavaret |
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| Posted: 06-04-2025 06:01 pm |
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63rd Post |
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vnavaret Member
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Lads - A minor update on Rusty... I have learned that the engine torque damper can cause cracks in the firewall if it seizes. Thankfully mine has not seized, but the bushes are shot having cracked and a few bits have fallen out. It is important that the damper be functional or you will end up needing to weld your firewall. I have seen some photos of such cracks on the Jensen Owner's Club site. After some research and a few dead ends, you have some options if yours has seized:
Cheers, Vance Attachment: IMG_0644[1].JPG (Downloaded 35 times) Last edited on 06-04-2025 06:15 pm by vnavaret |
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| Posted: 06-29-2025 10:31 pm |
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64th Post |
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vnavaret Member
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Lads: The impossible has happened. No, I didn't get a date with Heidi Klum. =:-( I got my engine back from the machine shop before Christ returned. Yes, it's true. Saints be praised. I started assembling my pistons (Carrillo BTW, nice stuff) and happened to spend a minute staring at my head as I contemplated the parts I have yet to acquire. I noticed something interesting. The machinist had found a crack in the cooling jacket after skimming the head. He sent it out to be heliarc welded, and finished the work. I have pointed out the repair in the picture. Notice anything? The combustion chambers nearest the crack are pitted, the chamber furthest away is pristine with no pits. Apparently the car was driven for a while with coolant leaking into the chambers. The combustion process turns the water into superheated steam which is very corrosive to aluminum - hence the pitting. You also get white smoke coming out the tailpipe which is a dead giveaway you have lost the head gasket. Apparently this was ignored and the car was used until it would no longer run. I also have reason to believe that the motor lost a cam belt at some point, as four of the valves were bent - but still doing their job well enough to continue to drive the car. My suspicion is that the valves bent the most were replaced, and the valves that merely "kissed" their respective piston were ignored. <sigh> I will give another update when I make some real progress assembling the engine. Cheers, Vance Attachment: IMG_0652[1].JPG (Downloaded 20 times) Last edited on 06-29-2025 10:33 pm by vnavaret |
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| Posted: 07-05-2025 10:22 pm |
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65th Post |
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vnavaret Member
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Rusty update: I have started to assemble the engine, and of course niggling little problems are percolating to the surface. I have installed the oil pressure sender cover, and installed the oil pump and pump housing. I installed the rings on the pistons, and almost missed the fact that there is a "front" side to the pistons, although there are no identifying marks. I noticed that the valve reliefs are very slightly different sizes, and at first I was not sure they were in fact different. A quick check showed that they are different sizes, so the larger cutout needs to go on the intake side of the head. Whew, bullet dodged. The rods are clearly labeled "Front" so no ambiguity there. The rods and pistons are ready to go in, but I am awaiting new bearings so that's as far as I got. The crank has been polished and was in spec, so apparently the oil was changed frequently enough in the past. I moved on to assembling the head. The machinist found four bent valves as I have already mentioned, so I also had to order 4 valves from Delta. I thought I could install the remaining 12 valves in the meantime. WRONG! The machinist had deepened the valve spring pockets by 0.115" and shortened the valve guides by 0.065" in order to keep the springs from stacking solid with the high performance cam I am going to install. There is now a very small lip around the base of the valve guide that prevents the stock valve spring shim from seating. <mumble> =:-o I checked Summit racing, no luck finding some appropriately sized spring shims as they specialize in Ford, Chevy, and Chrysler stuff. Nothing was close to the peculiar sizes used by Lotus - probably all metric pieces anyway. On a whim, I dropped by McMaster-Carr and looked at their machine shim inventory. Turns out they had the perfect item #97063A410 which fits neatly in the valve pocket with a slightly larger hole than the original shims - problem solved. A whopping $7 for 25 of the little rascals - so now I get to wait some more. <whimper> So I am in a holding pattern (what's new?) until the UPS man drops off some goodies. Stay turned for the next chapter in the never ending saga of Rusty. Vance
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| Posted: 07-06-2025 01:40 am |
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66th Post |
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redracer Member
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Vance: hope I' don't "insult" your engine rebuild knowledge, but there is a VERY important step when reinstalling the oil pickup tube & screen. The bolt holding the tube in must be put in loosely,less than finger-tight at first. Then the hollow allen bolt can be torqued down onto the nylon olive seal, with a strong recommendation to grease the threads first, as well as the inside where the tube comes into contact. If you were to torque the lower bolt down first, the tube will almost surely be canted/angled so the hollow allen bolt will not be able to be tightened enough to ensure no air leaking past the nylon olive, thus giving oil starvation(ask me how i & others know!). keep us posted, bruce
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