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A_Locomotive Member
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Hello! So a few weeks ago I purchased a mustard 1974 mk2 4spd. Car hasn't run for about a year and needs a fair amount of TLC, should have it running in a few weeks! So far master cylinder has been changed, brakes were bled(which led to the discovery the front left brake hose was ruptured) so ordering a set of stainless replacements. New battery led to the discovery of fuel dumping all over the engine when I put the key in to try the electronics so going to rebuild the carbs and check the hoses to be safe. Also drained the oil and the gas and after I change the timing belt and coolant hopefully it will be ready to go! I genuinely can't wait to drive it. I have no clue how to drive stick and plan to push it into the street and just figure it out. Haha |
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redracer Member
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You sound like a mechanic but haven;t driven a stick? Get a friend to run you through the basics so the tm. isn't damaged, and ask some questions on this forum so we van get yiou "smoothly" through any problems glad to have yuo onboard, bruce |
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A_Locomotive Member
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redracer wrote:You sound like a mechanic but haven;t driven a stick? Get a friend to run you through the basics so the tm. isn't damaged, and ask some questions on this forum so we van get yiou "smoothly" through any problems I trained as a mechanic after high school but for various reasons went a different direction career wise. I'm pretty rusty, but I've definitely got a decent idea of what I am doing. As for driving stick, I have driven a couple of manual cars briefly before but probably less then hour total. My brother is going to give me lessons in his Firebird before I attempt to drive my car and he will most likely be ridding shotgun for it. |
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Esprit2 Member
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When you replace the timing belt, also replace the tensioner bearing. The original Gates T104 black timing belt is still available, and inexpensive. Or a more modern Gates Racing T104RB Blue belt is available that is far superior... but it's more expensive. It also lasts far longer between replacements, which makes it more desireable to many owners, and worth the price. Check with your Jensen-Healey specialists first... they can also set you up with the correct tensioner bearing for your model year. You should invest in a proper tension gauge. The correct Burroughs BT-33-73F (aka SPX-OTC 6673) will set you back about $180 brand new retail. The Krikit KR1 is under $20. You get what you pay for. Don't follow the timing belt tension spec in the J-H Workshop Manual. It's too low, and the manual was never updated. Even the tension spec given in the later Lotus manuals evolved over time, finally settling on 95 Burroughs. For OEM & aftermarket BLACK timing belts, both trapezoidal and HTD.... .Burroughs = Krikit KR-1 ranges. . . . . . <82 = 45 Park it... drive it at your own risk. . . . . . . 90 = 50 Normal MINIMUM tension. . . . . . . 95 = 52 For re-tensioning a USED belt. . . .97-100 = 53-55 For installation of NEW belts, in order to allow for initial stretch. . . . . >105 = 58 Too tight... it's going to whine. ALWAYS read the Krikit’s POUNDS scale Gates Racing Blue, HTD & Trapezoidal belts: Burroughs = Krikit KR-1 ranges. . . . 83-85 = 34-35 NEW Blue belts. Gates Blue belts are so ‘tension stable’, that only one tension value is used for both new and used belts. Check the tension periodically as specified in the Service Schedule, but the blue belt will rarely require adjustment. ALWAYS check/ set the tension on a cold engine before it has been started for the first time that day. The tension increases as the temperature increases, and is dramatically different on a hot engine. Regards, Tim Engel Last edited on 05-21-2020 07:50 pm by Esprit2 |
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Sander Member 
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If the car has Stromberg carbs make sure the "T" inbetween the carbs is metal. The cars original fuel line "T" was plastic .... cracked, dripped gas on the dizzy and "poof" ... up in smoke! Welcome to insanity |
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A_Locomotive Member
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Timing belt is going to bd a project for this coning weekend! The info is much appreciated, I ordered the belt and bearings from the JHPS store not long after getting the car, and recently picked up the SPX-OTC gauge, I didnt want to take any chances with the engine so spent a little extra to get the correct one. The blue belt I would like to do i. The future but to my understanding it requires changing the pulleys so I will save that for later and will just do the yearly belt changes and monitor it's tension. Going to dig through the forum at some point to see if I can find a good write up to follow. From the looks of it, fan, fanbelt and radiator hose all need to come off to do it. As for the plastic tee, a prior owner took care of that! |
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Esprit2 Member
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A_Locomotive wrote:(Snip)... The blue belt I would like to do i. The future but to my understanding it requires changing the pulleys so I will save that for later and will just do the yearly belt changes and monitor it's tension.The blue belt comes in both trapezoidal tooth (the Gates T104RB number I mentioned previously) and the round-tooth HTD profile. Going Blue doesn't require different pulleys unless you choose to upgrade to HTD. But you don't 'have' to go with HTD just to use a blue belt. Regards, Tim Engel Last edited on 05-23-2020 12:03 am by Esprit2 |
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A_Locomotive Member
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Ahh good to know. I already bought the regular belt. Will get a blue one for sure on the next change. |
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