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| The Red Fox | Rating: 
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| Posted: 08-29-2013 11:33 pm |
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1st Post |
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Jensen Healey Super Moderator 
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 Here she is, arriving after a 3 hour tow. My truck had a flat on the front left after hitting road debris. The U-Haul trailer was great. The surge brake is required with the F150 ruling out the local contractor's rental yard.  This has been in a barn for a while and was super dirty. There was almost 2" of dirt behind the access panels but the rockers look surprisingly good for their 39 years. 
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| Posted: 08-30-2013 01:34 am |
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2nd Post |
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Jensen Healey Super Moderator
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 Standard issue floor rot already treated with phosphoric acid.  New front half repair panel ready to be trimmed. New panel welded in under seat and treated with Rust Destroyer. 
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| Posted: 08-30-2013 02:06 am |
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3rd Post |
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Ron Mau Member
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Looks like an easy project. Let us know how it goes.
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| Posted: 09-04-2013 05:09 am |
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4th Post |
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Jensen Healey Super Moderator
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The head is toast. A cracked valve, valve recession, and deep pitting will send this one to the smelter.   I have a '74 head on the shelf that seems to be in good condition. It will be stripped, checked, and if need be, sent out for service. The valve springs look like DMS competition items.  I may have to throw a 107/ 104 setup in there!
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| Posted: 09-10-2013 04:01 pm |
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5th Post |
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Jensen Healey Super Moderator
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Work on the replacement head is progressing. The valve seats were replaced by the PO. Just a bit of lapping is producing a good seal that is tested with paint thinner. Unfortunately, two of the valve guides are out of spec. 
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| Posted: 09-16-2013 12:35 am |
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6th Post |
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roland11a Member
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Oh you don't know how lucky you are over there! we dream of that much rust in the uk
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| Posted: 09-20-2013 07:23 pm |
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7th Post |
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Jensen Healey Super Moderator
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Has anyone seen these pistons? This is a 2.0 bored .030 over with what appear to be forged pistons. I'm wishing and hoping that the PO used a HC piston. 
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| Posted: 09-20-2013 07:59 pm |
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8th Post |
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subwoofer Member
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SJ Sportscars sell 11:1 pistons for the 2.0, you could email them to see if they can compare pictures. You may be in luck. -- Joachim
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| Posted: 09-20-2013 09:19 pm |
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9th Post |
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Jensen Healey Super Moderator
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Close! The SJ pistons seem to have a cutout along the side of the valve pockets. Mine look similar to the stock piston but the valve pockets are .010" shallower. The center area is dished .150" compared to the stock .155" so it's .005" shallower. At tdc the edge is .012" below the liner. I don't think this is a HC piston. These small differences couldn't add up to much.
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| Posted: 09-20-2013 10:08 pm |
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10th Post |
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subwoofer Member
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Later spec European engine then, like mine. 9.5:1 roughly, a lot better than the Federal 8.4:1.
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| Posted: 09-20-2013 10:53 pm |
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11th Post |
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Jensen Healey Super Moderator
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I jest called Mike at Delta Motorsports. He said if they're dished then they're stock compression. Oh Well.
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| Posted: 09-29-2013 06:51 am |
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12th Post |
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Jensen Healey Super Moderator
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Shimming the cams on the bench. Here's the head from the rear:
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| Posted: 09-30-2013 06:37 pm |
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13th Post |
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Frank Schwartz Member
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I, unfortunately, had to do a shimming job and it did it on the car...what a horrible experience...it took me two days to get it all right....and I became quite adpet at using a small micrometer and a set of thickness gauges....sigh....
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| Posted: 07-02-2014 01:14 am |
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14th Post |
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Jensen Healey Super Moderator
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I finally removed the door handles and locks last night. I had been dreading this project since there is little room to work in this area with my size XL hands. After searching the forum for clues I found the information in the first post to the Body and Interior forum in 2005. Step 1: remove "vent" glass and frame. remove the two bolts in the recesses near the top of the door. Then remove the nut that holds the window channel at the bottom of the door. The entire frame and glass can then be pulled up and out. Next, with the glass in a 2/3rds up position, slide the glass towards the front of the car until it is free from the regulator and remove. Now the back of the door handle and lock is accessible. Remove the two small bolts on the back of the handle. Then use a small chisel, screwdriver, and pliers to pry off the spring clip holding the rod to the latch. This clip must be mangled to get it off. Now the handle is free. The lock is held by a sliding spring clip. A little WD-40 helps get it moving. The rod is held by a small metal retainer. With a small screwdriver, gently pry the retainer off the rod and the lock will be free. With the glass removed I can get my hands into the area. I can also sand off the surface rust inside the door! Now to remove the latches… Kurt JH 13148 Runs great JH 19753 Project car
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| Posted: 07-02-2014 01:57 pm |
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15th Post |
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Brett Gibson JH5 20497 Member
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Kurt seeing you have the glass out I would recommend sticking a bit of sound deading material on the inside of the outer door skin.
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| Posted: 07-06-2014 06:08 pm |
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16th Post |
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Esprit2 Member
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Jensen Healey wrote:Has anyone seen these pistons? This is a 2.0 bored .030 over with what appear to be forged pistons. I'm wishing and hoping that the PO used a HC piston.Lotus OEM pistons would have markings on the crown, like an arrow pointing toward the front of the engine, and A or B grade marks. I see no markings on your pistons. See the attachment for Lotus 9XX piston ID. Forged JE Pistons that are sold by many Lotus specialists have a "JE" mark on the inside of the piston crown, on the exhaust side of the wrist pin boss. There's no arrow to indicate forward, so it's important to have the JE mark on the exhaust side of the wrist pin. Attachment: Manual, Workshop, Sec Tech Data, TDA, 1980-87 Engine - 9XX Piston Identification.jpg (Downloaded 145 times)
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