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Steve88W Member 
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Hello everyone. New Jensen Healey owner. My wife found this 1973 Jensen Healey (VIN 11602 but has an engine from a Mk2) online and thought it would be "fun" to fix up.... I need help finding resources for repairs. I've scoured the forums and found great resources for parts and already have an account set up with Delta Motorsports in Phoenix AZ. What I need help with is finding local shops to outsource work such as repairing my flywheel. According to the forums, my ring gear has slipped out of place and should be spot welded to the flywheel. After calling dozens of local shops, only 1 has offered to do the work but I've had horrible results from them in the past. I will be posting pictures and such on my website http://steve.88white.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=category&layout=blog&id=41&Itemid=67 If you see anything in the pictures I should be concerned about, please let me know. (yes, I have already ordered the replacement air filter kit) I live in Simi Valley California and if you're local and wouldn't mind taking a look at my car, I would appreciate it. Thanks |
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subwoofer Member
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For used parts, contact David Booth in England, I think he will have most of the parts you are looking for - like the sun visor and latch. http://www.jensen-healey.co.uk And you are lucky in choice of wife! Mine doesn't mind, but she's not the enthusiast around here. Time to get back to the garage, my car is in molecules. Set off changing the fresh air fan last night, only took me a few hours to get to it, the whole darn car is built around it... -- Joachim |
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Brett Gibson JH5 20497 Member
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Well welcome to the world of Jensen Healey's, as for parts British Masters in Vista Cal. has ton's of used parts so if you are any where near them it might be worth a trip with your shopping list, I've bought from them thru E-bay and not had any bad issue's so far, and gotten decent pricing, but they do have a rep. for being a bit pricey. No connection to them in any way shape or form. Good luck with your car and keep us informed. Brett PS: join the club and you can post Wanted add's for items as well, Free. |
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atgparker Member 
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Well it would seem that this VIN is now mine 11602. I pulled the transmission last night as it had barely enough oil in it to wet the surface of my drain pan, maybe a quart! 73 Mk 1 here with a rope seal for sure. Bell housing has at least a 1/4 inch thick build up of oil residue all over the entire inside surface. The clutch fork boot is long gone and what is more the bushings which fix the front sub frame to the body are looking quite perished from all the oil residue that has been pressure washed away as of last weekend. Pressure plate and clutch disk need to be cleaned too and I will need to borrow an input shaft or alignment tool if there is one about in O.C. CA? Or I may just leave the bell housing off and use the transmission to realign it before I snug the pressure plate back on the fly wheel. Thats if the Harbor Freight engine stand doesn't arrive soon to facilitate getting at the rear main I may have to put all back together. Who around here has the goods on replacing these pesky rope seals. Been on You tube and caught the Aussie piece on Holden V8s which seemed pretty informative. Yet there seems to be a lot of rumor surrounding this piece of the JH puzzle and not a lot of first hand knowledge. Attachment: WP_000431.jpg (Downloaded 357 times) Last edited on 09-09-2016 01:53 am by atgparker |
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DDrake Member
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You need to soak the rope seal gasket in oil for a couple of days before you install it . The result of not soaking it thoroughly is that it will shrink in a fairly short time and leave a massive puddle of oil in the new Lowes parking lot ! Ask how I know ! D.DRAKE 73 'Mk1 |
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atgparker Member
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I picked up some STP oil treatment with the ZDDP additive in it and was thinking I might soak the rope seal halves in this stuff like you insist? How about not setting the rope seal joints in line with the bearing cap and block joint line? Sort of offsetting the rotation of the seal with relation to the block if you get my drift? That is after I trim each half to be 1/16 longer than the length required for it to be flush in the block and/or bearing cap. Attachment: WP_000468.jpg (Downloaded 357 times) Last edited on 09-09-2016 01:54 am by atgparker |
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DDrake Member
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Okay now you have left my comfort ,zone ! |
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Brett Gibson JH5 20497 Member
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First off I have not replaced a JH rope seal but I have changed rope seals on hundreds of pumps agitators and othe rotating devices, two important things to keep in mind, they need lubrication, oil with ZDDP should do the trick, and cutting the ends at a 45 degree so they overlap, butt joints tend to leak faster. Hope it helps. Brett |
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atgparker Member
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VIN#: 11602, Engine: B73 02 1791 Cleaned up the flywheel, clutch-disk and pressure plate yesterday. It was un seated from the flange on the flywheel and the teeth badly burnished and burrs on all the teeth at the tip of the gears edge. The ring gear has been on the flywheel backwards for 40 years. You have to love all the low hanging fruit that is wrong with this car. Two PO's earlier to the chap who sold me the car explained that the car wouldn't start at one point and the garage that serviced the car reset the ring gear on the flywheel. But they never looked to see that the ring gears chamfers were facing the transmission. So I flipped it yesterday by driving it off with a 5 lb. sledge and a 5/8 steel drift. Today I discovered that this seems to have been common. Poor starter motor is a bit worse for it as the bushing in the end of the housing that supports the shaft was half way out of the aluminum casting. I re-set that and tapped a center punch into the aluminum to keep it snug with a bit of fresh grease applied to the shaft. The now outer facing surfaces of the ring gears teeth had to be nocked down with a mill bastard file to remove the sharp edges. |
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atgparker Member
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I got the car back together on Saturday and put 40 miles on the Speedometer. Got here up to some where north of 5,000 RPM which if you do the math is 103 MPH at 6,0000 in fourth gear with the 3.75:1 rear end. But alas the newlwy installed rope seal is amiss and its dripping oil with vigor. I need to replace the CAM seals as well now that it was cleaned up I can see the exhaust side is flinging oil all over the place. So for the rear main seal problem there are two solutions as I see it. Being as the Mk I and Mk II's share the same crank has any one tried to mount the later rear main seal housing and modern lip seal to the back end of a Mk I block? That's option one. Option two is finding a newer Mk2 block with the updated seal housing and other improvments. Anyone have a lead on a Mk II block that is in need of a rebuild and deviod of any major carnage? Attachment: WP_000515.jpg (Downloaded 357 times) Last edited on 09-09-2016 01:58 am by atgparker |
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Greg Fletcher Administrator 
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The rear seal housing and the back of the block is quite a bit different on the improved lip seal engines, converting from a a rope seal to a lip seal on the 907 would entail a substantial amount of machine work. You might be better off finding a later block to drop in. Later Mark I engines do not have rope seals, BTW. That was limited to the early engines mostly found in the 10,000-11,000 numbered cars. |
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atgparker Member
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Hi Greg, Understood, as mine is 11602 it fell right into that "early" relm. From the look of the fresh oil wetting the tunnel and transmission, it seems this new seal installation is about as bad as the one that was in there when I acquired the car. I presume Delta sells the correct seal (white with a square cross-section) as that is what I used along with alot of internet based education in how to do this right and wrong per say! Attachment: WP_000450.jpg (Downloaded 358 times) Last edited on 09-09-2016 01:48 am by atgparker |
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atgparker Member
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Mk II rear main seal carrier on a Mk I block. Just some drilling and tapping and no machine work needed on the block. I did get a lightened flywheel (17 lbs) and faced off the lip which surrounds the landing for the crank shafts flange mounting surface so they are now planer with each other and won't mess with the new seal. One pound each of Devcon industrial putty & liquid aluminum filled epoxy which are used for repairing aluminum castings was the key to this solution. That is if it stays together! Cheers, Andrew Attachment: WP_000558_.jpg (Downloaded 499 times) |
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atgparker Member
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Oh, If some of you are looking at this and thinking this guy is an idiot because he has glued the two halves of his engine together and cannot therefore part the lower half of the block form the upper. This is just one pitucre of many. The 1/8" thick aluminum plate I made gets slit on eihter side of the crank shaft with a jewlers slitting saw right next to the flat headed phillps machine srew. Here the epoxy is quite fresh and has yet to kick off so in order to keep the hole pattern intact for the seal carrier this seemed the best solution. |
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atgparker Member
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In my travels with working out a Toyota W58 conversion for 11602 I have found a source for a clutch disk with the following specification: Disk OD is 8.34" (212 mm) the spline is the 1-1/8 x 21 T size for the Celica/supra gear box. They mate the rather over sized spline hub with a kevlar lined disk that will fit in an 8.50" clutch cover which has a 250 mm bolt circle diameter for fixing it to the flywheel. The out fit is in New England and is called Wishbone Classics. MG's and Triumphs are there specialty. The shifter is a Cube short throw unit from Australia. This will kind of work nicely with the transmission kit from Conversion Components in New Zealand. Fortunately the Celica gearbox came with its rear cross member and this worked a ton better than the kit supplied one. The difference being that the OEM Celica one has a mid-span bend a lot like the OEM JH has. Attachment: WP_20160221_001.jpg (Downloaded 355 times) Last edited on 01-11-2020 11:32 pm by atgparker |
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atgparker Member
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11602 Got new rear axle bearings this weekend. Centrix bearings lack the o-ring groove to seal the gear oil in the axle housing. So lots or Halomar never hardening blue urethane gasket maker is applied to curtail gear oil loss. I had to machine a pair of spacers to fill in where the OEM bearings are .200 thicker than the replacements. Otherwise all is good and now quiet as the passenger side was starting to make wer-wer noise. I have the spacers designed in SolidWorks if anyone needs to make some. A disk grinder with a thin slitting disk and cold chisel are the trick in getting the bearings off the axle shafts. Getting the axles out of the housing are easy when you put 1/2-13 X 2ft long all thread through the axle flange holes for setting the four nuts which fix the backing plate and bearing retainer plate. Double nut and washer the all-thread and make plate with two 1/2 inch holes that you can hammer on with a small sledge or decent ball peen hammer and the o-ring and accumulated grunge will break free and out comes the axle. |
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atgparker Member
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11602 Hits 70,000 Miles on the odo this week. New shoes to boot! Attachment: JH11602-VTOs.jpg (Downloaded 355 times) |
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atgparker Member
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Fleanor FSO3299, Gates T104RB, Tensioner Hub: At 74,200 miles I installed a new timing belt, pulley and idler hub (Care of Peter Van Ruth, AKA Down Under). But the gas milege had started dropping off last week from 16 to 14 MPG with the last fueling and the car was getting harder to start and acceleration was not what it had been. The idle was sounding funny too. Spark Plugs & Timing: At 74,400 new plugs and timing was set. Yup the plugs needed to be replaced with one insulator that had a chunk missing. Some improvement was felt but it was still not quite right. Then I see oil is filling up the block pockets under the distributor and aux housing, blast I think the O-ring on that ruddy distributor housing doesn't last long! Diagnosis: But that wasn't it. Upon further investigation at 74,600 the distributor cap had enough oil in it that the rotor could re-wet its self with each rotation. How the car would actually run with so much oil in the distributor cap was beyond me at this point! So dissassembly started last night to find that the shaft has no actaul seal and only a screw groove slinger thread in the OD is provided to keep the oil from migrating into the area where the fly weights, pertronix pickup and rotor exist in the housing. Because it is horizontal, the oil ingress once it starts has to get about a 1/2 deep before the oil can drain from the unit. Although some is going to seep from between the cap and housing. This "flame thrower" distributor has perhaps 27,000 miles on it from new. The Fix: I put an O-ring inside the housing between the bushings that guide the distributor shaft in the hope that this will temporarily reduce the oil migration. But the shims at the other end where the dogged hub is roll pined to the shaft is gauled. Looks like a good place for a thrust bearing as the oil pumps pressure relif spring continually loads the distributor shaft onto the end of the housing all the time. The Fun Never Ends: Time to order a poly pack from McMaster for a proper seal solution and a thrust bearing for the shaft as well. Oh the test drive last night was adorned with wonderfully hard acceleration all the way to 6K and plenty of off idle grunt that had been missing for the last 2 weeks making me think the 12 pound Aluminium flywheel was a bit too light for day to day driving. Attachment: WP_20161209_001.jpg (Downloaded 327 times) Last edited on 12-17-2016 03:01 pm by atgparker |
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little red Member
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It looks like i have the same issue with oil pooling in the block pockets.i have been cleaning the areas continually looking for the leaks. Thanks for the heads up. I did notice on the 08/27/13 post that in the picture you have the front sway bar connected above the bracket instead of below. Is that the regular way or did you find this to be a better method? |
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little red Member
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Do you remember the size of the poly pack you got from mcmaster-Carr? Also what thrust bearing do you recommend. Appreciate your help. |
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atgparker Member
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Bad day yesterday with all the rain hydroplaned and spun the car and bent the axle shaft. Does anyone have one for sale? I will need a drivers side front quarter panel, head light bezel and a windshield as well if British Masters doesn't pan out? Attachment: WP_20170526_007.jpg (Downloaded 245 times) Last edited on 05-27-2017 05:11 am by atgparker |
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redracer Member
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Assume you mean one of the half shafts in the rear? Yes, I have plenty of very good used ones, but I am on the other side of the U.S., so there is likely someone in CA who has one. "But that wasn't it. Upon further investigation at 74,600 the distributor cap had enough oil in it that the rotor could re-wet its self with each rotation. How the car would actually run with so much oil in the distributor cap was beyond me at this point! So dissassembly started last night to find that the shaft has no actaul seal and only a screw groove slinger thread in the OD is provided to keep the oil from migrating into the area where the fly weights, pertronix pickup and rotor exist in the housing. Because it is horizontal, the oil ingress once it starts has to get about a 1/2 deep before the oil can drain from the unit." Your right in that the earlier distributors did NOT have an oil seal on the shaft-into-the-housing, just below the weights like the later 25 & 45 distributors.(most of the cars they went into had the dist. mounted vertically, so oil getting into it was unlikely). On the ones that did not have the seal, I knocked the upper steel bushing down farther to accommodate a seal(SKF #4702, 12X12X5mm HMS4 R). |
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answerman Member
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I've got a full rear axle/differential assembly sitting in storage: like Bruce said you can probably find someone closer (I'm in Wisconsin, I think I've sent you parts before) but if you have no luck anywhere else, mine's available. |
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atgparker Member
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McMaster-Carr parts for Pertronix FlameThrower distributor shaft improvements: Thrust bearing is: 5909K31 O-Ring Supported U-Cup is: 9505K17 Mcmaster-Carr Parts for Door Hinge Rework: Door Hinge Pin Replacement: Punch Pin Blank Ø 5/16 x 2-1/2 long: 93770A315 #4 Phillips with 3/8 drive: 51395A46 The upper portion of the OEM pin is knurled under the head to fix it in the outer portion of the hinge brackets which keep it rotating in the inner bush section if its not rusted together. Both of the upper pins in my car are sheared off resulting in the doors dropping when they are opened. Clutch Cable Fix, McMaster-Carr Part Number: 35215T12 Clutch cable fix forever clevis gets rid of the leaded ball at the pedal end of things. I drilled out the pedal and put a brass bush in the oversized hole for the clevis pin to rotate in. It is the best clutch improvement you will ever make to the OEM cable. Last edited on 05-30-2017 02:07 pm by atgparker |
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atgparker Member
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This modified Addco Sway bar arrangement gets the bushings and washers parallel with the OEM tab on the lower suspension arm. The thing with an anti-sway bar is you need to couple it to the suspension and body as best as can be managed to minimise compliance. This approach seemed like the anti-sway bar was made to go over the top of the thrust rod and at the angle that I have with the spacer made to be so the angles are perfect for the washer stack and bolt to transmit the suspension movement to the bar as cleanly as possible. As they are passive the better the coupling the more anti-roll you will get for the foot-pounds of twist that you can put into the bar under hard cornering. Notice the welded in plate on the frame and cool washer face headed hex bolts. This puts a bit more smoosh on the bushing to couple the bar to the chassis better than the weird U-bolts were capable of. Attachment: WP_20170526_002.jpg (Downloaded 247 times) Last edited on 01-12-2020 12:12 am by atgparker |
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Brett Gibson JH5 20497 Member
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9509K17 o-ring support cup not coming up at Mc M. |
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atgparker Member
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Picture of my method for spreading the inner fender panel out to match the Mk1 fender I aquired from Brithish Masters over the week end. Attachment: WP_20170617_001.jpg (Downloaded 218 times) Last edited on 06-19-2017 08:54 pm by atgparker |
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atgparker Member
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I got the bonnet and front fender repainted back in July 2017. A lot of block sanding priming and boom the rest of the car is really looking quite poor compared with this effort. Attachment: WP_20170704_001.jpg (Downloaded 203 times) |
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atgparker Member
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Replaced motor mounts with Land Rover D-90/Discovery 1 units. Twice the diameter of the OEM and about the same thickness. The aluminum hole saw cutouts are washers to raise the header off the steering column. I use the same number on both sides to keep the engine level and the Webber's float bowls from spilling more then is already going on when hard cornering. This stack height seem to be nicely straight when the elastomeric stack of the mount is observed. The exhaust side mount is slightly more vertical on the header side of the motor and takes more of a compressive load under acceleration. But the intake side is more horizontal and the shock absorber on the fire wall is undergoing extension with the rebound dampening applied to resist the movement. It all gets rather nasty when these mounts become separated were the vulcanized rubber is peeled away from the steel disk/s. Had to drive to El Segundo for two days of work related training the week after the SOLO event only to realize that my cube shifter on the W58 was jammed against the tranny tunnel passenger side opening and getting the gear box into 5 gear was almost impossible. That's when the aha moment was realized as to what had happened! This made for an interesting drive home. Attachment: WP_20171115_20_18_29_Pro.jpg (Downloaded 186 times) Last edited on 01-12-2020 12:15 am by atgparker |
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atgparker Member
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When the motor mounts failed the fire wall got fatigued and cracked badly. So I made up this reinforcement from some 1/8 inch thick steel plate. I used J & B weld to fix it to the ground and cleaned fire wall surface. Added a spacer to get the damper bracket alignment perfectly straight with the motor bracket. I replaced the damper with an MTB shock (CHASER brand <$50 on eBay, has adjustable rebound needle). I merely just removed the 750 lb/in spring and bolted it in. The bushing width is perfect but the aluminum Allen screws were replaced with steel nuts and bolts that are either M8 or 5/16. 07 Dec 2017, I have been experimenting and put the OEM shock back on for a few days with the big motor mounts. When the temperature is just right I get all kinds clutch chatter on engagement with the "shot" OEM damper. This morning drove the car again with the Chaser MTB shock absorber with the rebound damping set to full hard and the clutch chatter is gone! Attachment: WP_20171115_20_19_33_Pro.jpg (Downloaded 186 times) Last edited on 12-07-2017 08:54 pm by atgparker |
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atgparker Member
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Three weeks ago my two year old Hardi fuel pump quit. Looks like the single click was due to fuel ingress into the PCBA and the electronics fried. Note the fuzzies on the solder joints and the inside of the blue plastic cap was covered with evaporated fuel residue. These are not vented like the SU's are! Attachment: WP_20171122_17_22_49_Pro.jpg (Downloaded 186 times) |
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atgparker Member
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SU seems to be really nice and a lot better designed than the unvented Hardi. This SU has the solid state electronics and has solved all of the fuel pressure and flow related issues I have had until running the car with this fuel pump. The crappy regulator at the fire wall is gone and in its place is the OEM Fram filter which is clear plastic and a great way to see if air or fuel is in the fuel line before the Webers. I run a 1999 Honda CRV fuel strainer on my fuel pick up pipe inside the tank. I can't believe the Smiths sender and gage are still working after all these years. Attachment: WP_20171115_20_16_26_Pro.jpg (Downloaded 187 times) Last edited on 01-12-2020 12:24 am by atgparker |
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atgparker Member
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SCCA-Solo event at Fontana just this last October. Thrashed the OEM motor mounts and ruptured the firewall shock mount all before the ruddy fuel pump quit three weeks ago. The fun never ends!... Attachment: WP_20171021_13_56_37_Pro.jpg (Downloaded 187 times) Last edited on 11-26-2017 05:40 pm by atgparker |
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redracer Member
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Would strongly recommend putting a fuel filter BEFORE the pump; I've seen rust particles break the plastic flapper valves inside the SU pump. |
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atgparker Member
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Thank you for the heads up on this point. I concur with your assessment. I have a 1999 Honda CRV strainer on my fuel pick up tube that is in the tank. So only small particles of rust and crap can get to the pump which it should be able to process. As I drive this car daily to work the OEM tank is keeping rust free even though it was an orange mess when I first got this car over four years ago. As you know the diaphragm pump is good for pulling a decent head pressure which is easily far more than the height of the SU sitting on the fender to the tanks bottom. I had one of those glass filters which ended up leaking and pulling air as the O-rings relaxed and couldn't figure out why the car was leaning out all the time until I observed the ruddy bubbles. Until the Hardi and now the SU I had a lot of trouble with other pump styles like gear-rotors being able to pull the fuel when it was below the pumps height i.e. below half full. The car ran notably different as my commute was 29 miles along Santiago Canyon here in Orange County, CA so it was an excellent test bed drive each day. Filtering the input side is going to hurt the pumps efficiency but I fully concur with the idea for a car that is rarely driven in keeping the crap out of the pump. Just be prepared to have additional G12 Fram filters on hand!.. As for now this brand new SU is killing it and the car has never run this well. Setting the timing to 14 degrees has also helped with removing an off idle stumble which may have been part of the Hardi going south and not feeding the DCOE Weber's correctly. It is so much better that I'm reconsidering replacing my 17 lb steel flywheel with my 12 lb aluminum one! Last edited on 01-11-2020 10:53 pm by atgparker |
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answerman Member
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I assume you got your axle shaft issue straightened out? (no pun intended) How did those motor mounts work out for you? I bought the same set about a year and a half ago and haven't gotten around to putting them in yet: planning on doing it this winter when I install my new Gates Racing blue timing belt. I got the mounts because they seemed to be just a bit thinner than the OEM mounts. I have always had issues with shimming the mounts so the steering shaft clears the Delta 4 into 1 header (I've got it working, but I can't install the timing belt cover since it hits the bonnet on acceleration). Hoping the new engine mounts will give me just a bit more "adjustment latitude". Last edited on 11-27-2017 09:12 pm by answerman |
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Rick in Miami Member
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Great information and tips in this thread. Are you running DCOE 40s or 45s? What jetting are you using? Thanks ~ Rick |
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atgparker Member
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Yes the axle shaft did get replaced Delta bailed me out in that area of disgrace. While I was at it the rear axle got pulled and I welded up the radius arm mounting brackets that are all apart of the unibody construction. Then as the rear drum brake was bent I pitched the drums and replaced the entire rear brake assembly with Honda CRX disk rotors and calipers which have the hand brake cable as part of the caliper. As the CRX uses 13 inch wheels the caliper and rotor are a great fit and can be used with the OEM Jensen wheels when you are in a pinch for a spare. The hand brake works a charm with this set-up. 11602 is running 45DCOE9 (that came off an Alpha Spider and had that cars OEM jetting in them when I got 11602, it was getting 9 MPG). Since October of 2017 the jetting is as follows: Chokes: 36 Idle Jet: 55f8 Pump Jet: 45 Emulsion Tube: F2 Air Corrector: 180 Main Jet: 140 Float Height 8.5 mm Since the SU Fuel Pump got installed shortly there after the mileage hovers around 15 MPG. The Odometer is 88,911 as of Jan 2020 but driving has tapered off over the last year or so as I have been getting a 91 4Runner sorted out after sending my 96 Range Rover to the scrap heap on a flatbed with a load of good riddens! What else the Chinese $15 air horn quit working so I replaced it with a pair or Hella Supertone horns that blaze away at 200 & 400 Hz and produce a shocking loud noise. Merry Christmas 11602. The Yokohama Advan Enovia 205/50-R15's are pretty much wasted at this point. Dang 88,911 - 70,000 = 18,911 miles for 180 treadwear rated tires is really pretty good, all things considered. The VDO's for the oil pressure and the voltage are a nice improvement over the old Smiths. The Oil pressure is a large sweep gage that covers most of 270°. Cold engine 70-80 PSI then when its warmed up idles with 20 to 40 PSI at 1000 RPM. Any less than 800 and the alternator has difficulty with headlights and cooling fans running together. Keeping the voltage above 12 volts is often not the case when the idle setting has drifted off to 800 RPM. I put the Koni's back on for AutoCross for the last part of 2017 but haven't done any for 2018. It was a bad year for taxes was 2018. So for all of the last two years I have been running the Koni's at full damp on rebound minus maybe a 1/2 turn or less at the rear but full rebound damp on the front. The ride is abundant with road feel shall we say! Last edited on 01-12-2020 12:36 am by atgparker |
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Esprit2 Member
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atgparker wrote:11602 is running 45DCOE9 (that came off an Alpha Spider and had that cars OEM jetting in them when I got 11602, it was getting 9 MPG).That is poor fuel mileage for a 907. There is no standard 'factory' set-up for Webers on a 907, but I suspect your Idle Jets and Idle Air Correctors are too rich at 55f8. I'd be looking at something more like 50f9. The main jet is also a bit rich at 140 (try 135), but since the DCOE's idle circuit feeds the engine up to around 4000 rpm, it's probably the real culprit guilty of the 15 mph. These aren't hard recommendations that 'will work!' It's just my humble opinion, and I'll bet two cents against a donut that they'll work better for you. Having said that, altitude matters. As you go higher, the air gets thinner, so the Air-Fuel Ratio gets richer... how high are you? It's possible you could be running a Sea Level jetting set-up at altitude, where it's way too rich. Try the following to driveway-analyze the jetting. Properly balance the carbs, and adjust the Idle Mixture Screws for peak manifold vacuum. If you're working by ear, then peak rpm corresponds to peak manifold vacuum. Finally, set the idle speed to 900 rpm. Only then... 1) If the Idle Mixture screws are out 2 or more turns, then the idle jet is too lean - Go up one size. 2) If the Idle Mixture screws are out 1 ¼ or less, then the idle jet is too rich. Go down one size. 3) If the Idle SPEED screw is turned IN more than 1/2 turn after contact with the throttle lever, then the idle circuit is too lean. If the throttle speed screw has to be turned IN more than 1/2 Turn in order to achieve 900 rpm, then you are cheating the Idle Circuit by opening the butterflies to expose additional progression hole area in the carb's throat. A need to turn the Idle Speed screw in more than 1/2 turn is another indication that the Idle Circuit is too lean. 4) With the engine up to full operating temperature, set the Idle Speed as slow as possible, consistent with smooth running. Open the throttle slowly enough that the accelerator pump isn't much of a factor. If the engine hesitates off-idle, then the Idle Air Corrector is too small, go a step larger, repeating until the hesitation just goes away... no larger. When you're done, set the Idle Speed back to 900 rpm. Personally, I prefer 1000-1100 rpm, but let's not confuse the issue now... stick with 900 rpm. 5) Find a quiet stretch of road where you can make a full throttle run in a lower-mid gear without attracting the wrong kind of attention. You'll rip through first too quickly to be helpful, and 4th is to great a risk of getting a speeding ticket. After a rolling start, short-shift in to 2nd or 3rd at as low of an rpm as the engine will tolerate, then accelerate at full throttle. If the engine stumbles at or a little before 4000 rpm (the Idle to Main transition point), then the Idle Jets are too small... go a step larger and repeat. If the engine does not stumble, then you don't know where you are. Go a step smaller with the Idle Jets and repeat until the engine just stumbles at or before 4000 rpm. Then go back one step larger until the new-found stumble just disappears... no richer. Any changes made to the Idle Jet and Idle Air Corrector affects the other one. So repeat the above procedure until the last round produces no further change to either the Idle Jet or Idle Air Corrector. When you're done, any Idle Air Corrector change made sitting still in the driveway may prove to be too lean while driving. If the engine hesitates as the clutch is released, trying to get the car rolling from a standing start (ie, if pulling the choke out a bit helps), then go a step richer on the Idle Air Corrector until the hesitation just goes away... no more. *~*~*~* In some racing applications where high “G” forces are experienced in turns (ie, you autocross), the “Inlet Needle travel” (float droop) is limited to 1.5 mm of movement. This creates more of an on / off effect in the fuel inlet needle valve, and controls the fuel level in the fuel bowl in a more consistant, operable condition. Just something to play with. *~*~*~* I also have a 45DCOE-9... a single on my Lotus Europa. It's tiny car at 39" tall across the coupe roof, just 1400 lbs, with a 1565cc engine, and it would deliver only 19.8 mph at a steady freeway cruise. The jetting wasn't very different from what you listed above, but the chokes are smaller. Last Spring/ Summer, I made a series of Idle Circuit changes following the above procedure. I ended-up at 45F9 with the float height set to 8.53 mm 0.336”, and the Idle Mixture Screws at about 1 3/8 turns out at peak manifold vacuum. The engine now sounds & runs better than it ever has in the time I've owned it, it has more pep, it no longer stinks rich, and it delivers 32 mpg during freeway cruise. I'm not saying your J-H will ever deliver high fuel mileage, but I do think your current 15 mpg is pretty poor, and that I'd start tuning by playing with the idle jets and idle air correctors. Regards, Tim Engel Last edited on 01-14-2020 08:43 pm by Esprit2 |
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atgparker Member
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Tim, Many thanks for your wonderfully detailed response. The HG let go last December with the drive up to Willow Springs for an Extreme Speed event. I ended up with about a pint of oil in the top of the radiator when I finally realized that the coolant hoses had started sweating oil. Now here we are and its June 2022 and the 907 is all apart and have discovered that a PO had replaced one of the original Mk1 pistons and rod assemblies with a Mk2 which is slightly different in the area of the wrist pin. So the 12 lb fly wheel was not a happy time trying to run it this way. So I have procured a new used set of Mk2 pistons and rods from eBay. The 12 lb flywheel, with new pressure plate, along with the crank and pistons and rods are at West Coast Balancing this week. 11602 is at 92,187 miles now and the cylinders are looking good and the head is now lapped and the valve seats are re-cut with a Neway seat cutter tool. To your jetting recommendation I shall have to take this on as my wide band O2 had stopped working shortly after I had been running it only to find the sensor-head was terribly fouled with a lot of carbon. So probably oil bubbling past my exhaust valve guides as 4 of the seals had come apart where the spring grips the seal to close in on the valve stem. However, prior to that happening the air fuel ratio was looking pretty good for most all of the throttle plate positions and under various load and over run conditions. I think most of my 15MPG is because I mash the accelerator more than I ever hold it steady when I drive this car. The run up to Willow springs did produce 18.46 MPG as that was the drive up there from Orange County to the track and then three sessions on the track with a lot of WOT for a total of 216 miles on the tank full. The return home netted 223 miles on the next fill up but was partial so never got the correct mileage. If things get well settled after the rebuild I'll take a good look at messing the idle jetting as I think the air screw turns I have would indicate that I need to change things a bit. Again Tim, always appreciate your input and your immense head knowledge on this engine and chassis. |
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atgparker Member
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Well 11602 got the engine rebuilt with a matching set of mk2 pistons and rod assemblies that all have tapered wrist pins. They have been match balanced by the Balance Shop in Santa Ana, CA as has the crank shaft. Also the Conversion Component aluminum 12lb fly wheel and a new pressure plate are balanced together for a complete balancing of all the moving parts in the engine. The need was due to the oil getting into the coolant as of last December so I modified the block by adding additional aluminum to the wall of the block where the oil feed gallery goes to the head. ARP head studs are installed and a new HG finish off the new parts. I lapped the head and cut the valve seats and reset the valve lash. Sealed the entire engine with 515 Loctite on all of the flange sealing surfaces and Right Stuff Gasket Maker was applied to the cam covers which took several attempts to get the exhaust cover to seal on the header side. Been two weeks driving her with the balanced internals and what an amazing difference it is over the condition things were in prior to this. The 12 lb flywheel was not fun beforehand but now the pulls to 6500 RPM are buttery smooth with no hint of complaint from the tone or manner in which the RPM's increase. Attachment: 20220619_080534.jpg (Downloaded 43 times) Last edited on 08-01-2022 02:31 am by atgparker |
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