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Moderated by: Greg Fletcher | Page: 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 |
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18711 "Miss Jensen" | Rating: |
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Posted: 09-23-2009 12:17 pm |
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21st Post |
subwoofer Member
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The engine is now in transit, and should be with me within a week! I'll be replacing the old lump with a Spec 5 engine from a '78 Lotus Eclat. This translates to 45mm carbs with 36mm chokes, E cams and 9.5:1 compression. I really believe it will be a completely different beast to the torqueless wonder on Strombergs. Should be straight forward, just have to swap the sump and clutch (and possibly flywheel) over from the old engine. Will change the oil seal on the crankshaft while it is easily accessible, replace the water pump with a brand new unit, and of course rebuild the carbs so that it won't catch fire the first time I drive it. -- Joachim
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Posted: 09-24-2009 04:36 pm |
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22nd Post |
Greg Fletcher Administrator
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Sounds like a plan, good luck with the new engine. I'd consider replacing/rebuilding the distributor as well. I have yet to see one that did not need the shaft rebushed.
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Posted: 09-24-2009 04:42 pm |
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23rd Post |
subwoofer Member
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The plan is really to stealth in a MegaSquirt for ignition control, should be able to hide it under the dash without too many noticing. I will have to add a VR pickup and a 36-1 toothed wheel to the front pulley, but not many people would notice. I would still be using the distributor, but only as a kind of "traffic director" for the sparks. I don't know if rebuilding the distributor is worthwhile in this case? Does the wear manifest itself as play (poor timing) or as an oil leak? -- Joachim
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Posted: 09-24-2009 04:52 pm |
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24th Post |
Greg Fletcher Administrator
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Yes, a sloppy shaft bushing will leak oil through the center. You'll also get a very noticeable "point float" at high speed driving that is not pleasant when your realize what it should really be like. An electronic ignition will help cover most all of that up, but in general it will be best to have the shaft to spec.
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Posted: 10-06-2009 06:43 pm |
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25th Post |
subwoofer Member
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Received the new engine today, pictures forthcoming as soon as all the kids are asleep. Can't wait to unwrap it, through the foil it looks like a nice and clean engine. Yiiiha!
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Posted: 10-06-2009 08:51 pm |
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26th Post |
subwoofer Member
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Here it is! Pallet as received this afternoon Engine unwrapped Box of goodies Will rebuild the carbs first, shouldn't take too many hours, then I'll install the engine. But first of all, I have to pull the old one. Maybe next weekend, have to change the gearbox on my Vanagon first...
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Posted: 11-06-2009 05:05 pm |
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27th Post |
mnunes22 Member
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Looks great! How did the shipping work out? Was it delivered to your door? What was the cost of shipping? I have seen several items at Lotus Bits that caught my eye, but hesitate at the shipping hassels to California. Looking forward to your post when you fire up the engine. Bill
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Posted: 11-09-2009 01:24 pm |
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28th Post |
jcdean Member
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Regarding shipping to the states, it is pricey. I would love to find a way to have items from Lotus Bits dropped off at the door. But, unless I am buying a very large anount of items the shipping becomes a very large part of the total cost. Back on thread, it looks great and wishing you great luck on the install.
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Posted: 11-09-2009 01:30 pm |
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29th Post |
subwoofer Member
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Thanks! Shipping was absolutely not free of charge, but I guess the cost to the States would be a whole lot more. I hope it will be worth it. Does anyone know how to safely relax the tension on the cambelt on engines with the automatic tensioner? My new engine has one, but it is naturally not covered in the service manual, I think they first appeared in '77. I really don't want to have parts flying in every direction after loosening the wrong bolt.
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Posted: 01-23-2010 10:13 pm |
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30th Post |
subwoofer Member
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Managed to get a few hours in the garage today. On the new engine: - Old water pump is off. - Dell'Ortos taken off, carb exteriors cleaned. On the car: - Air box and air filter out. - Disconnected (and plugged, just in case...) fuel line. - Cooling system drained. - Radiator taken out - Alternator taken out There was some brownish sludge in the bottom of the radiator and in the hoses, so I will clean everything out with dishwasher detergent before connecting things back up. -- Joachim
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Posted: 01-26-2010 09:04 pm |
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31st Post |
subwoofer Member
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Picture time: Sludge from bottom of radiator. Coolant was supposed to be clear blue. Time for some engine work... Stripdown in progress. Oil cooler, hoses and bonnet off next.
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Posted: 03-21-2010 11:24 pm |
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32nd Post |
subwoofer Member
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Finally got some work done today. Checked valved clearances, and cleaned up and mounted Jensen-Healey valve covers on the new engine. Looking better already -- Joachim
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Posted: 03-22-2010 11:37 pm |
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33rd Post |
subwoofer Member
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And another successful evening. - Oil seals on both cams changed - New water pump installed - Front oil seal on crank changed - New timing belt and tensioner - General clean up as I go Finally getting somewhere! -- Joachim
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Posted: 03-23-2010 01:10 am |
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34th Post |
pbahr Member
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Joachim, I'm taking a close look at your new engine and note that it seems to have the old standard square cambelt sprocket grooves. In my experience, with all that you have put in that car, I would definetly change to the newer Lotus "half moon" cam belt and sprockets. You will never have to worry about the belt jumping a notch nor breakage. Yes, it will cost you a bunch of Kroner, but it is cheap insurance. The other cheap (relatively) insurance would be to add an Accusump (3qt if you will be putting the car on the track........) Pete
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Posted: 03-24-2010 10:58 pm |
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35th Post |
subwoofer Member
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pbahrI'm taking a close look at your new engine and note that it seems to have the old standard square cambelt sprocket grooves. You are absolutely right, it will be running with square teeth for now. I consider this engine a temporary measure, I am planning to rebuild the other one with a few upgrades. Accusump is probably a good idea, though! Tonight brought some real progress. Oil cooler is out and filled with diesel for the second time. The oil in the cooler was STICKY, in fact not quite unlike molassis (sp?). After draining it once, the diesel would hardly go in. Left it for an hour in front of a heater fan, and by then the diesel had started doing its thing, what came out then was roughly like 5W-30 oil at the same temperature. Leaving it overnight, then it should be nice and clean after blowing it out with shop air. I think I will be able to get the old engine out on Friday. All that's missing now is to jack the car, loosen up the exhaust and lift the bugger out. -- Joachim Last edited on 03-24-2010 11:15 pm by subwoofer |
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Posted: 03-27-2010 12:01 am |
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36th Post |
subwoofer Member
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"The lift" is underway, but the exhaust has beaten me for tonight. After a few lift attempts, I think I finally found all the bell housing bolts, so the engine is free from the gearbox, but still not free from the exhaust. It's messy work, since the old engine was quite busy "marking territory". I think I'll have to bust more knuckles detaching the exhaust manifold from the head tomorrow. It seems clear that the manifold won't let go of the rest of the exhaust system anytime soon, so I won't waste hours trying to separate the two. Just hoping the manifold comes off easily, access is a b%@ch. I'll prop some wood under the left motor mount, hopefully that will enable me to get all the nuts off.
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Posted: 03-27-2010 02:08 am |
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37th Post |
pbahr Member
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Joachim, Yes, access to the manifold bolts is much easier if you jack up the front of the engine...... YELODOG
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Posted: 03-27-2010 03:20 pm |
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38th Post |
subwoofer Member
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THE ENGINE IS OUT! Tying down right side of engine to tilt it while lifting to gain access to exhaust studs Engine on its way out Oily mess Bell housing before and after quick cleanup It is obvious that the major leak has been the oil seal behind the flywheel, but surprisingly, the clutch looks clean! I'm also happy I have a new lower steering column bush and new U-joints. The bush has about 3mm play in it and the joints were not the best, no wonder the steering was a bit on the sloppy side. -- Joachim
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Posted: 03-28-2010 12:27 am |
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39th Post |
subwoofer Member
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And here is the reason for the oil leak: The flywheel has been rubbing on the oil seal, so the is no seal - only oil... -- Joachim
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Posted: 04-16-2010 11:00 pm |
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40th Post |
subwoofer Member
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The project is progressing. Old lower steering column bush, not much left New bush fitted, along with a second hand U-joint Modified oil pan and one rebuilt carb fitted I think the modified sump turned out nice, the welder did some great work. He normally works with equipment for offshore oil rigs, and it shows.
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