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| Both Carbs Leaking Fuel | Rate Topic |
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| Posted: 09-19-2020 05:09 pm |
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1st Post |
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pokeyjoe Member
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I haven't had the chance to drive the car much since I got it. It pretty much ran like crap and I knew I had to rebuild the carbs. I also had to replace the battery and the evap canister was not re-installed. I wanted to get some fresh gas in the tank, but didn't make it out of the driveway. I had fuel coming out of both carbs. It seems odd that it was both carbs. I'm thinking that I may have a fuel pressure problem.  Looks like the original pump, but I remember the previous owner saying something about some sort of a problem (he had someone else work on the car so a lot was lost in interpretation). The fuel line in front of the tank is not the vent line. This one just disappears behind the tank somewhere. Attachment: fuelpump.jpeg (Downloaded 60 times)
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| Posted: 09-19-2020 10:08 pm |
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2nd Post |
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redracer Member
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I think we just went over this recently(don't remember who). More likely the float valves have not been tightened enough(as was that person's case) or if not run in a long time, then float valves could be stuck open. Since you have the correct fuel pump(SU) I would rule out a pressure problem. Time to remove the carbs. bruce
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| Posted: 09-19-2020 10:14 pm |
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3rd Post |
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redracer Member
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Here's the POST was started on 8/11/'20 Carburetors > Fuel leaking from vent (39 replies - 1343 views) 08-11-2020 Stock Stromberg 175 cd2. The carbs appear to be in good order. was told they were recently rebuilt. The car ran well when i drove ... *********************************** 09-01-2020 08:10 am 40th Post Jagwire64 Member Joined: 07-21-2020 Location: Chesterfield, Virginia USA Posts: 29 Status: Offline Carb removed...much faster this time. Torqued the float bowl valve a wee bit...no more leak. Result...finally. Thanks all for your help. Will be back on the road very soon.
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| Posted: 09-19-2020 10:50 pm |
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4th Post |
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pokeyjoe Member
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It just seemed odd that they didn't leak and then both did. I hope the new needle and seat assemblies do the trick, but that brings up another question. The kit included both thick and thin washers for the needle and seat assemblies. I used the thin ones (and both carbs are the same). It looks like they're the same as the old ones. Should I use the thick ones?
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| Posted: 09-19-2020 11:18 pm |
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5th Post |
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redracer Member
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doesn't matter which crush washer you use--just DON"T reuse one that's already been "crushed". The float height is done using your fingers to bend the float tab. btw, it takes quite a bit of force to "crush" the washer enough; you may want to put Permatex #2, #98, or #3 on both sides of the washer just in case.
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| Posted: 09-20-2020 12:40 am |
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6th Post |
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pokeyjoe Member
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Thanks. I'm thinking that simple ball and spring regulator is long gone as well. I should probably pick up an aftermarket one.
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| Posted: 09-20-2020 02:22 am |
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7th Post |
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redracer Member
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the SU fuel pumps did & do NOT require a regulator. They are set for low pressure and volume
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