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| Moderated by: Greg Fletcher |
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| Veneers | Rate Topic |
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| Posted: 06-24-2007 05:07 am |
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1st Post |
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timeforwalkies Member
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And while I am at it, what wood is it that the interior veneer is suppose to look like? Has anybody tried to replace it with solid wood? Seems easy enough except for the consul, but a nice true verneer would look great if done correct. Clif
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| Posted: 06-24-2007 12:14 pm |
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2nd Post |
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DaveinMD Member
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I went mostly with the veneer. I had problems with the control panel, the metal plate wasn't straight enough to take the veneer so I did it in solid wood. Other than that the only hard part was the glove box where you have to make the curve. I sanded it to make the angle a little less and then steamed the veneer a bit and massaged it into place (took a couple of trys to get it right. I wouldn't worry about what's "right", just look for some veneer that you like. DONT go to home depot, find a good wood shop near you or or on the web. I've got some bubinga I could let you have since it's a Jensen project. I used curly maple for mine but would have used the bubinga if I'd had it at the time. I seem to remember one of the jensen regulars did it in solid, the pics should be somewhere on here.... I'll put up a photo or two if I get some time in the next few days. Dave
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| Posted: 06-24-2007 02:54 pm |
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3rd Post |
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Jensen Healey Super Moderator 
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Walnut from the hobby shop at $3 per piece was my choice. Several coats of cherry stain and spray satin poly to finish. Much thicker than veneer it must be joined or steam bent where needed.
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| Posted: 06-26-2007 06:30 pm |
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4th Post |
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colinw59 Member 
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As DaveinMD said, the control panel (center console) is difficult to veneer as it is made of very thin S/S with a raised lip and it's not very flat. On 15841 I made a replica of the flat section (excluding the raised perimeter lip) from a sheet of 1/32" steel sheet. Using the original as a master and paying extra attention to the switch cut-outs. I cut and carefully filed these cut-outs until the switches etc. located firmly in them. I then veneered this panel , cut out the holes and re-checked the fit of the switches etc. and primed the back face. I wanted to retain the S/S raised perimeter lip, so as to keep the new panel looking as original as possible. I scribed a line on the orignal panel about 1/4" in from the edge and then cut to this scribe line. I deburred this frame and placed the newly veneered replacement panel on top of it. When finally installed, the CD/radio kept this assembly firmly in place. I sprayed several coats of a water based varnish over all the new veneer. As Walnut burl has a lot of knots in it and it's very uneven, so I used a veneer softened to 'flatted' it out. This softener must also be used when veneering the glove box and the panel that houses the cigarette lighter & ashtray, as they both have a rolled edge on them. The softener allows you to bend the veneer without breaking it. I used a Walnut burl veneer from Herzogveneers via Ebay to re-veneer all the veneered faces. The pics below show all the areas that were reveneered. Good luck, Colin http://jhppg.com/gallery/74-Jensen-Healey-15851/2006_0218 http://jhppg.com/gallery/74-Jensen-Healey-15851/2006_0522_17
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