| Moderated by: Greg Fletcher | ||
| Author | Post | |||||||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
|
Jay Member 
|
I have rust at the seam between the rocker pannel and the lower front edge of the rear fender. Does anyone have an approach to opening this seam that doesn't require removal of the rear fender. The majority of the fender seams are in what appears to be good condition. I would just like to have greater access to this lower seam. Can the lower portion be brought out enough for access? I seem to recall some discussion on this topic but haven't been able to locate it. Thanks, Jay |
|||||||||
|
Brett Gibson JH5 20497 Member
|
Jay, Removing the inner panel infront of the rear wheel will allow you access to the back of the fender, from there you can cut and fix as need be. Brett. |
|||||||||
|
Ed Davenport Member 
|
Removing the access panel inside the fender will get you behind the panel to inspect and repair it. There a bolts that attach the lower fender to the sill, you'll need to remove these and you may need to remove some of the pop-rivets at the front of the rear fender to provide better access. The fender is pretty flexible even with the top half still bolted and riveted in place. Inspect carefully, mine sills were too far gone to leave the fender on. Ed |
|||||||||
|
Gary Martin JH 15371 Member
|
Jay, see the JHP photo gallery under body and paint. I have a rust repair section there. I have pictures of repairing this area. Removing the bolt and rivits to pull out the bottom of the rear fender for repair. http://jhppg.com/gallery/album106/IMG_0431 Gary |
|||||||||
|
Jay Member
|
Thanks Brett, Ed and Gary. This is just what I was looking for. Gary's post in the photo Gallery is what I remember having seen. Thanks again. Now I just need to get myself in gear to tackle this part of my project. |
|||||||||
|
Jay Member
|
I have just started into the rust repair at the rear right fender to rocker seam. My Jensen has a small weld adjacent to each of the rivets that you mention (those covered by the stainless trim). I guess I'll have to grind then out. When removing the stainless trim piece, I had to bugger up one of the small stainless screws to get it out. Is there a source for these screws? I'll need to replace this one and I was thinking about adding a couple to the rocker stainless cover. Right now the rocker cover only has one at each end. BTW the rocker trim seems to be stuck on quite well. Does anyone know what would have been used to attach the stainless trim to the rocker? It would seem that only one screw at each end would not be sufficient. I'm not sure what would be the best way to remove the trim. It seems that I need to cut through some sort of adhesive. I don't want to distort the stainless trim. Has anyone been-there-done-that? Thanks for any advise. |
|||||||||
|
Mark Rosenbaum Member 
|
IIRC the screws holding the stainless pieces at the bottom and rear of the door openings were originally chromed steel #4 self-tapping sheet metal screws with Pozidrive heads. Many owners have replaced them with stainless Phillips head screws. Delta may have some but they don't appear in my copy of their catalog. If you're asking about the screws holding the stainless pieces at the bottom of the door opening, my car has 6 per side as per the photo below. There shouldn't be anything else holding the things in place. Attachment: trim screws.jpg (Downloaded 47 times) |
|||||||||
|
Gary Martin JH 15371 Member
|
Jay, When I removed my stainless trim on the rocker panels it had two beads of black adhesive the whole length. After removing the screws, I had to use a large putty knife and tap it in with a hammer. It took 15 or 20 minutes of carefull work to cut through all this stuff, and then carefully pry up the stainless plate. The adhisive keeps sticking to itself, so once I got it started I had to use thin wood wedges to keep it lifted up slightly. |
|||||||||
|
Jim DeClerck Member 
|
My stainless steel threshold plates were also attached with a screw at each end and two long strips of adhesive material. Tedious to remove without causing damage. They show their age with a few small but unsightly dents, scratches, marrs, etc., accumulated over the years. I found a guy who made me an identical new set, but without the holes, out of thicker stainless - less susceptible to dents, etc. I am planning to cement them in place with silicone seal and no screws. If they shift in use, I'll drill the two holes and secure them with #4 SS pan head philips head screws, but if they don't move they'll look nicer without screw heads showing. |
|||||||||