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| Plastic Door Panel Fasteners | Rating: 
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| Posted: 12-18-2005 07:41 pm |
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1st Post |
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edward_davis Member 
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Are the little plastic brads (pictured) that attach the door panels to the doors availabe still? Are there any workarounds or suitable replacements for these? I'm missing most of the brads for my door panels, and I'd like to do the replacement right. I'm documenting my door panel work on my JHPPG site: http://jhppg.com/gallery/album110 Attachment: Door Brad.JPG (Downloaded 97 times)
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| Posted: 12-18-2005 10:28 pm |
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2nd Post |
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John Kimbrough Member
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Edward, you can either get them from Delta Motorsports or you can go to your local True Value hardware store (or equivalent) and get them from their parts bin. They basically just screw into the holes in your backer board. John.
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| Posted: 12-19-2005 03:09 am |
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3rd Post |
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Mitch Ware Member 
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Or you can use part #803-420 from moss motors http://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=32885#top. I used them for both my TR6 and my JH Mitch Ware 1974 Jensen Healey JH5 #111119670 1971 Triumph TR6 #CC66950LO
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| Posted: 12-19-2005 07:07 am |
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4th Post |
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Mark Rosenbaum Member 
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Edward, your door panels look to be worse than average, so the improvement will be that much greater when you get things done. I added extra padding at the top on my car's panels so that occupants would have a gentler impact during brisk cornering and when going over railroad tracks at speed. From your photo, it appears that Delta has changed the raw material for their door hardboards again. I guess they just make up a few at a time. The ones I bought four or five years ago were dark grey. If you have trouble finding the push-fixes for the studs that hold the bright trim in place, or if they are loose, you can use 1/8" lengths of suitably sized automotive rubber hose. I've used several of these on my car and they hold better than the original parts. If you have trouble getting the courtesy light on the passenger's door to fit properly, th big V notch on the side may be just a bit small. Mine would pop out from the bracket every month or so until I deepened the notch and cured the problem. Last edited on 12-19-2005 07:09 am by Mark Rosenbaum |
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| Posted: 12-22-2005 12:16 am |
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5th Post |
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Tony Hollart Member
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Seeing the picture of your door trims brings back memories of my own. The brads are available in packets from the car places, Repco or Supercheap Auto, it is possible to take them out of modern car door trims also. I made my door panels out of solid plastic sheet that was about 4 mm thick so was slightly thicker than the hardboard that the originals were made out of. I found that my old hardboard panels were so distorded that they could not be used as a template, so I cust my sheet to approximately the right size and then put two brads in so as to position the sheet on the door and then used pen to mark out the size and shap to fit the door. Then to get the rest of the brads in the correct place I used a bolt with a sharpened end and the put it in each hole made a mark, moved it onto the next hole etc. To pad out under the vinyl I used dacron from a craft shop ( they make cuddly toys etc from the dacron ) and for the top pad a sleeping mat from the sports shop has the right consistency for a nice firm pad. Used aerosol glue to stick slepping mat pads together, and dacron to plastic sheet. Worked out quite well. I did not put the door lock slide in as it pretty difficult to lock a convertable and if I do have to lock the doors I can do it with the key from outside. All the Best and a Merry Christmas.
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| Posted: 12-29-2005 09:00 pm |
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6th Post |
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edward_davis Member
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Thanks for all of the advice, folks. It's made the door panel work much easier. I should have a picture up of the finished driver's side door this afternoon. Mitch, thanks for the head's-up about Moss Motors. Tony, I used the spray adhesive and it worked well; saved a lot of time and I found an acid-free kind that should last. I did put the door lock pulls in, as I like to keep the doors locked while driving for safety. I can't use the door pull to lock the door when I leave the car, though. The mechanism seems to require me to close the door before I can lock it. I guess that's a precaution against locking yourself out (not as big a deal on the convertible). I've got the hardtop on for winter, so the door locks do actually serve a purpose, at least for now. Thanks, Edward Davis
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| Posted: 10-15-2007 05:45 pm |
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7th Post |
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Steve Jarvis Member
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I ordered the clips from Moss Motors as mentioned in the previous post. Unfortunately the ones they are shipping now are very different from the plastic plugs used in the Jensen. They are a metal clip that will not work with the holes in the door panel. I did talk with a customer service rep and he indicated there was a different plug for another car that would work. I did not persue as their shipping costs to Canada are fairly steep.
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| Posted: 10-16-2007 05:44 pm |
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8th Post |
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Brett Gibson JH5 20497 Member
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Try going to a auto upholstry shop and asking were they get there stuff from, worked for me, I ended at a supply house that had a mega selction of all sorst of fasteners.
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| Posted: 11-11-2010 07:09 am |
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9th Post |
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JayH5 Member 
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I recently restored my door panels and an upholstery shop directed me to a business that they get some of their stuff from and they had a good substitute. The clips I bought were intended for a Mazda with 8mm holes. The information on the box of 25 clips was as follows: Brand name: AU-VE-CO, part# 14363, other# 9927-40-821. Attachment: Completed Panel.jpg (Downloaded 118 times)
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