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| Rust Repair | Rating: 
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| Posted: 11-22-2005 10:26 pm |
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1st Post |
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Paul Prinsen Member
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Just bought my first JH, and it has the normal rust issues. I do'nt mind fixing something once, but I absolutely hate rework. Maybe those who have done this before would'nt mind sharing their experience and insight. Most articles on restoration mention POR-15. In doing some of my own research, I found Rust Bullet, and it has impressive test results when compared to POR-15. I worked for Westinghouse in the 80's when finishes started improving, and many of the tests that the Rust Bullet site shows are familiar. (Impact, adhesion, saltspray, etc). Por-15 seems to have a wider range of products available, including putty (good!). Rust Bullet is very sensitive to water/humidity (not good at this time of the year where I live). Rust Bullet requires little prep (good!) Other issues: Are there rust reformer products that soak into joints, cracks, hard to reach places, like the trunk lid? Do any of these products serve well as a anchor/base for Bondo or epoxy? In my experience, rust loves to "feast" under body fillers. Last edited on 11-22-2005 10:27 pm by Paul Prinsen |
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| Posted: 11-23-2005 03:32 am |
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2nd Post |
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Art DeKneef Member
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Paul, It depends on where the rust is and ease of access, how bad, and how much prep you can do. Treating rust on the outside of the fender is easier then on the inside if you don't take the fender off. Since I live in Mesa, AZ, the environment will be different than Oregon, but the basic principles still apply. I can give you my experience with some products that I think are better. I tried POR-15 and overall found it was okay. A better product for me was Zero Rust. I also use a product called Picklex-20. The important thing though is the prep work of the sheet metal. Normally I remove as much rust as possible. If the metal is pitted or is going to sit around for a while before I can prime it, I use the Picklex-20 to treat the metal and convert the rust. Spray it on, rub it in while it works for a minute or so and then wipe any excess with a paper towel and let dry. Parts kept in the garage will stay clean for a long period of time. Depending what has been cleaned, I either epoxy prime (exterior pieces) or use Zero Rust (chassis pieces or interior pieces). I also used Picklex-20 for those hard to reach places, like inside the doors. After allowing it to thoroughly dry, I then used the Zero Rust to further prevent rust. As for the anchor/base for Bondo or epoxy, two different products. First the bondo part. There are proponents of both schools. Bondo direct to metal or prime and then bondo. The important thing is to make sure the metal has enough "bite" for the bondo to hold properly. Also, it depends on what product your are using. The tech sheets will outline the proper use of their product. Tests I have seen by a couple of guys in the field showed a slight edge to bondo direct to metal. Both methods worked. These were not scientific tests. The guys got some metal, prepped it different ways, tried a few different things and then waited. Then they attacked the metal to determine how it all held up. They did both bondo to metal and bondo to primer to the same metal. When you say epoxy, are you referring to epoxy primer? If so, it performs the similar function of sealing the metal and offering good rust preventive measures. Again, depends on what you are trying to do. Good metal with little rust, sand, treat with Picklex, epoxy primer, sand, and paint. Metal that has heavy rust or pitting, I'll sand what I can, sandblast if needed to remove as much rust from the pits, treat with Picklex, cover with Zero Rust, and then cover with UV inhibitor coating. If metal has really bad rust or pinholes, I replace the metal with good. Hope this helps some. I'm sure others will chime in with their experiences. Art
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| Posted: 11-23-2005 08:37 pm |
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3rd Post |
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Paul Prinsen Member
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Art, Thank you for your detailed reply. The Picklex-20 seems to be just the ticket. I was hoping to find a way to phosphatize metal, and this product seems to have that functionality, and also reforms rust. If it is very liquid, it may penetrate and stabalize cracks and hard to reach places. Looks like it would also work well under body filler, like Bondo. By not priming, you avoid issues of bondo pulling the primer away from the metal, or the bond between the primer and bondo failing. Also like that this product works in adverse temperature and humidity conditions. Again, thanks for your insight and help. Paul
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| Posted: 11-23-2005 09:47 pm |
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4th Post |
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Art DeKneef Member
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It is very liquid. I use it in a spray bottle with an adjustable nozzle. It will soak into the cracks and convert any rust that it comes in contact with. I used it for the inside of the doors by spraying all over, moving the door all over to make sure it got into all the seams, wiprd what I could and then let it dry. Then I thinned the Zero Rust some and coated the inside. Better protection for the next 30 years.
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| Posted: 11-29-2005 09:52 pm |
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5th Post |
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Paul Prinsen Member
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Art, where do you purchase Picklex-20. None of the paint stores in Medford, OR had it. I wrote to the company, but they did not (yet) respond. Is there a mailorder/internet source? Cheers, Paul
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| Posted: 11-30-2005 02:17 am |
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6th Post |
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Art DeKneef Member
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I've gotten it from here: http://autobodystore.net/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=P20&Category_Code=6RCC One of the places locally thinks he can get it. Since I still have plenty, I haven't asked him to check further yet. They usually respond within a day. At least that's been my experience. Art
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