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Max_dvdt Member
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So we have managed to misplace the key to the trunk and the lock is a little squirrelly we used to be able to lock pick it, but now it just seems jammed. the inner lock piece seems to be lifting out of the holder. any thoughts? Haven't managed to find a spare lock or we would have drilled it out by now. Thanks K Attachment: IMG_0236 (1).jpg (Downloaded 71 times) |
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chrisl Member 
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I rigged a cable release using a bicycle brake cable. The only tricky bit is drilling a hole in the 'paddle' in the locking mechanism itself. I had no problems but other tell me the steel is quite hard.I am having trouble posting multiple pics in the same posting so here's 1 of 3: Attachment: Cable release 1A.JPG (Downloaded 70 times) |
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chrisl Member
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And here's how it attaches to the underneath of the boot (trunk): Attachment: Cable release 2A.JPG (Downloaded 70 times) |
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chrisl Member
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And then you can poke it through into the cockpit. This setup means you never need to worry about the lock sticking again. Pete Bahr made a kit up with the necessary components but sadly he passed away a while ago. That said, all you need is a bike brake cable. Attachment: Cable release 3A.JPG (Downloaded 70 times) |
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redracer Member
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Max? the trunk lock "springing" up implies that the spring steel on the inside of the trunk has come out of its slot on one side. There are only 5 pins/tumblers for the lock(as well as the doors and glove box; the ignition has 9 pins)so someone elses key may work. If not, you will need to drill straight through the center to "destroy" the pins and hopefully not the trunk lid. Here's a remark I posted in July, 2016: Does anyone know a source of that dadgummed spring fitting that goes around the trunk lock mechanism and has two barbs that when the lock is pushed into place, they snap out and hold the lock in place... Frank; just read this; have quite a few; I grind the sharp tips down a bit so it "slides" in easier but still holds the lock down nicely, using vaseline or grease to make assembly easier. The tough part with installing the lock is the "return" spring. I use a wooden clamp and some wood to hold down the lock while I attempt(very "testy") to get that return spring in the proper holes while having the bolt handy for tightening down. Smaller fingers and better eyes might be useful here. You may want to put a removable rag into the space first as losing that return spring down one of the trunk channels is likely. take care, bruce I have plenty of used locks, etc. if yours can't be worked out. |
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Frank Schwartz Member
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Chris in Australia.. I'd be interested in knowing exactly where you drilled that little lever on the latch assembly..do you have a measurement or template?? Thanks, Frank |
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chrisl Member
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Hi Frank It's right in the middle of the paddle on the RHS of the lock (as viewed from underneath). I'll take a better pic of it soon. |
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chrisl Member
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I'd be interested in knowing exactly where you drilled that little lever on the latch assembly..do you have a measurement or template?? Hi Frank Here's a close up of the mechanism that 'clamps' the boot (trunk) lid down, unbolted so that you can get a better look. You'll see I drilled a hole about 7mm from the rear uppermost corner of the release paddle as shown: Attachment: JH boot release A Mar 2018.JPG (Downloaded 58 times) |
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chrisl Member
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Another picture from a different angle. Be careful to make sure the cable can slide freely before you shut the trunk; I find when pulling it I need to hold the outer sleeve in one hand and the steel cable in another. One day I will fit a better looking handle behind the drivers seat (RHS on my car, everything here is upside down of course) but it works well and I don't use the key anymore. Attachment: JH boot release B Mar 2018.JPG (Downloaded 58 times) Last edited on 03-06-2018 12:27 pm by chrisl |
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Frank Schwartz Member
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Thank you...it will work for me !! Thank you Frank |
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