| ||||
| ||||
| Moderated by: Greg Fletcher |
|
||||||||||||||
| Red Line Oil | Rate Topic |
| Author | Post |
|---|
| Posted: 11-06-2010 06:04 am |
|
1st Post |
|
SpeedyMitch Member 
|
For those interested, here is a summary of an e-mail exchange I have had with Dave Granquist @ Red Line Oil. SpeedyMitch: My Jensen-Healeys stock Lotus 907 motor is a bit 'tired'. The oil pump is worn so oil pressure is slow to build and lower at idle than I would like. Would Red Line 20w-50 be appropriate for this motor (the manual says the oil needs ZDDP)? Would this synthetic oil help the worn oil pump build and maintain oil pressure faster and better? David: Thank you for contacting Red Line Oil, I had a Jensen-Healey at one time, it also was slow to build pressure and kept loosing rod bearings. The 20W50 would certainly be a good option to help develop more pressure, though a lower viscosity will help build pressure quicker at start up. All of our oils contain good ZDDP levels, appropriate for flat tappet cam and follower protection. SpeedyMitch: If my main concern is the slow build of oil pressure and a lower viscosity would help would you recommend a step down to Red Line 20W40 or go even lower viscosity? I am currently using Valvoline VR1 20W50 and it sometimes takes 30 seconds to build pressure after sitting for a few days. David: I wasn’t able to find the VR1 10W50 data sheet, though generally it would have about 60% higher viscosity at a typical startup temperature (50°F) compared to a 10W40. For quicker oil pressure at start up a lower viscosity will help, the 10W40 would be a good option, quicker pressure build at startup and a reasonable viscosity at operating temperature. The 0W40 for example would have about 25% lower viscosity than the 10W40 at that startup temperature. Last edited on 11-06-2010 06:09 am by SpeedyMitch |
||||||||||||||
| |||||||||||||||
| Posted: 11-06-2010 06:06 am |
|
2nd Post |
|
SpeedyMitch Member
|
I'm going to change the oil when I take the Auxiliary Housing off to inspect the oil pump. I'm leaning towards refilling with Red Line 10w-40. Am I just asking for (more) oil leaks with using a lower viscosity oil?
|
|||||||||||||
| ||||||||||||||
| Posted: 11-06-2010 05:27 pm |
|
3rd Post |
|
Jensen Healey Super Moderator 
|
Hi Mitch, What oil filter are you using? A high quality filter with a silicone anti-drain back valve can help retain oil in the gallery. Bosch 3402 K&N 2004 Mobile1 204
|
||||||||||||||
| |||||||||||||||
| Posted: 11-06-2010 08:00 pm |
|
4th Post |
|
SpeedyMitch Member
|
Hay Kurt, I just removed a Fram PH16 (confirmed it does have an anti-drain back valve). I'm installing a Napa Gold also confirmed has the anti-drain back valve. Wish it was that simple! Mitch
|
|||||||||||||
| ||||||||||||||
| Posted: 11-06-2010 08:39 pm |
|
5th Post |
|
Jensen Healey Super Moderator
|
Begin rant: The operative word is "silicone". The basic Fram is about the worst filter made. Even their website promotes their high mileage filter as 25 times better than their standard filter. The PH series doesn't use a silicone anti-drain back valve. At least get their Tough Guard model. I went to the Napa gold website and they don't even mention the drain back valve. They do say it's a paper filter with synthetic fibers. Go to the Bosch website and see their basic paper model has the silicone valve, 99.9% first pass efficiency. They are also playing the game with a extended range version. End rant.
|
||||||||||||||
| |||||||||||||||
| Posted: 11-07-2010 07:52 pm |
|
6th Post |
|
subwoofer Member
|
I stick with black filters (Mann or Mahle) for all my cars. The Mahle OC23 appears to be a good filter from a reputable supplier, whereas Fram has a reputation for be trustworthy as far as you can throw them. No problem with pressure buildup in the "new" engine, has pressure within 3 seconds with 5W-50 synthetic. I run without an oil cooler for the moment, so I may switch to 5W-40 for next season once the oil cooler is replaced. -- Joachim
|
|||||||||||||
| ||||||||||||||
| Posted: 11-07-2010 07:58 pm |
|
7th Post |
|
subwoofer Member
|
SpeedyMitch wrote:Am I just asking for (more) oil leaks with using a lower viscosity oil? In which case all our cars would be leaking like crazy once hot... When cold, the oil is like maple syrup and at no pressure, while running it is almost as thin as water and under up to 7 atm of pressure. You should rather find the cause of the leak and eliminate it rather than trying to cure it with thicker (when cold) oil. 20W-50 is exactly the same viscosity as 5W-50 when warmed up, but the 5W-50 starts lubricating a lot quicker after starting up. -- Joachim
|
||||||||||||||
| |||||||||||||||
| Posted: 11-11-2010 02:33 am |
|
8th Post |
|
pbahr Member 
|
Of course, the ultimate solution to long oil pressure build up time is to install an Accusump oiler system. You develop full oil pressure BEFORE you start your engine..... YELODOG
|
|||||||||||||
| ||||||||||||||
| Posted: 11-12-2010 04:22 pm |
|
9th Post |
|
jdenglish Member
|
Or you could try the Oregon Research Technology Turbo-Saver II. I've used them on 3 engines. Always nice to have oil pressure before starting.
|
||||||||||||||
| |||||||||||||||
| Posted: 12-21-2010 12:57 am |
|
10th Post |
|
SpeedyMitch Member
|
SpeedyMitch wrote: I'm leaning towards refilling with Red Line 10w-40. To bring this thread to a happy conclusion. I have been running Red Line 10w-40 for a few hundred miles now with no apparent adverse side effects. Looking at the oil on the dip-stick I would have to say that it looks really good. On a related note: I found that even after 37 years the factory service bulletin to drill the air bleed hole in the aux housing had NOT been done to JH 12827. I drilled the hole and now get oil pressure within about 5 seconds of start-up. Without the hole I was looking at 0 pressure for as much as 30 seconds.
|
|||||||||||||
| ||||||||||||||
| Posted: 12-21-2010 12:59 am |
|
11th Post |
|
JodyKerr Member 
|
Good to hear!
|
||||||||||||||
| |||||||||||||||
| Posted: 12-21-2010 01:21 pm |
|
12th Post |
|
Lash Russell Member 
|
Hi Mitch, I didn't know there was an issue with the Aux oil pump housing for a hole to be drilled. Was this for the earlier (MK I, I think) engines? I actually have the service bullitin set, I guess I oughta pay more attention? Lash
|
|||||||||||||
| ||||||||||||||
| Posted: 12-22-2010 04:22 pm |
|
13th Post |
|
SpeedyMitch Member
|
Lash Russell wrote: Was this for the earlier (MK I, I think) engines? The bulletin is JH 74-17 Subject: Oil Pressure Delay To decrease the oil pressure build up time, an air bleed hole has been incorporated in production at serial number 14875 on the pressure side of the oil pump body in the auxiliary housing. This bleed hole will allow air trapped in the oil galleries to be pumped out, therefore assist in oil pump priming. The bulletin gives details on how and where to drill the hole.
|
||||||||||||||
| |||||||||||||||
| Posted: 12-22-2010 04:35 pm |
|
14th Post |
|
Lash Russell Member
|
Thanks Mitch, Lash
|
|||||||||||||
| ||||||||||||||
| Current time is 05:23 pm | |
| > Jensen Healey & Jensen GT Tech > Miscellaneous > Red Line Oil | Top |
