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| Joined: | 05-15-2006 |
| Location: | Tempe, Arizona USA |
| Posts: | 217 |
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Ironically, I was just writing in a notebook today that holds my diagrams for this. :)
My preferred method:
1) Jack up front end on jackstands and remove front manifold side tire (driver's side for those in the US)
2) place a board with width of the oil pan on to your jack, fold over a towel on top for extra padding.
3) Start slowly jacking up the engine. Mark the points where the bolts are on the motor mounts (makes setting it back easier). When the jack supports the engine loosen the two front engine mounts (on either side of the car).
4) continue jacking up the engine, should come up a few more inches easily. Take care for clearances and the rear dog bone mount.
5) Do your Yoga/Contortionist warm up exercises.
6) Remove the nuts on all flange surfaces. The lower inner nuts are always the worst. With a numbering configuration of 1-2-3 (one being top nut, 2 being lower left, 3 being lower right) remove them in this order (flange surface order is front to back). Flange 1: 1,2; Flange 2: 1,2; Flange 3: 1,2; Flange 4: 1,3. The remaining nuts are the hardest to reach and will only become progressively off as you loosen them. To finally get them off you'll need to separate the manifold entirely from the block (and becareful not to have them skitter off and lose them).
7) Get in there with cleaning tools to clean the mating surfaces. Toss old nuts and use a new copper set from Delta or JHPS. Insert new manifold gasket. Slide manifolds part way into place and set the last nuts removed. Follow up with the rest of the nuts.
If your manifold is separated out compeltely (e.g. the two parts, neither attached to the exhaust) then fit the Flange 1-4 header in first and rotate it longitudinally towards the exterior of the car. Then set the Flange 2-3 header into place, set the nuts and rotate the Flange 1-4 header back over.
8) Final steps are reverse of disassembly. When retightening the engine mounts ensute that the engine has the proper longitudinal rotation. You can test this by turning the steering wheel from lock to lock. If the upper steering knuckle does not hit the exhaust or the engine, then you're good. If it's not placed correctly that knuckle will hit up against the exhaust and motor.
It's actually not a terrible job, it's just slow, occasionally painful, and requires some interesting self-positioning.
Jody