View single post by subwoofer
 Posted: 05-12-2010 10:05 pm
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subwoofer

 

Joined: 04-01-2008
Location: Sandefjord, Norway
Posts: 617
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 With the factory headers you will be hard pressed to get a torque wrench anywhere near a few of the nuts, I had to keep flipping an ordinary spanner to tighten three of them (tightening 30ยบ at a time). Even with the engine hoisted as high as possible, tilted and moved to the right, a few of the nuts still requires some yoga to reach.

Have the car on axle stands so you can crawl under it, cyl #4 nuts can really only be reached from below/behind. Remove both rubber motor mounts, then you are able to move the engine about 2" to the right, you need that extra space. With a polyurethane jack pad on your floor jack, you should be able to jack the engine on the oil pan with no damage. Just make sure you place the pad as close to an edge or a corner as possible. Tie the right motor mount tightly to the crossmember, so that any lifting force tilts the engine.

I replaced all the nuts with modern type "copper" nuts while I had the manifold off. They where about 80 cents a piece at the local car supplies, and should not vibrate off anytime soon (the threads are distorted to pinch the bolt). You may find that some studs are missing, Ms. Jensen only had 9 (out of 12) studs left when I pulled the engine.

If you go through the trouble of getting to the studs, you could just as well spend a couple of hours extra and change the manifold gaskets. It won't get easier by waiting it out.

Warning: This is stuff I have found out through trying it myself, not something read out of the shop manual. It may not be a good idea, but it worked for me. YMMV, proceed at own risk.

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Joachim