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| Joined: | 08-05-2005 |
| Location: | Canton, Ohio USA |
| Posts: | 73 |
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Something like that is what I thought may be worth a try. I was hoping someone may have already tried this. Thanks for the tip. With the switch removed I should be able to see which way the piston needs to move rather than guessing. I'll give that a try.
Jay
UPDATE:
Andy,
My PDWA must be different than yours. When I remove the switch, all that is revealed is a small steel ball that now appears to be in the up position to depress the switch plunger. The mechanism to move the ball (a groove or taper in the pistons) is not revealed. It appears that I will need to resort to the bleeding procedure to reset my switch. It is interesting to note that the ground path to the switch plunger is by way of a small spiral spring on the tip of the switch plunger. After tweeking this spring, I find that the tail of the spring needs to be positioned so that it contacts the ID of the threaded switch bore. Upon removal of the switch the spring got a little distorted.
I removed the switch, and when it looked like I wouldn't be able to reset the switch by going this route, I screwed the switch back in and reconnected the wire. My warning light was now off! I wondered how the switch could reset itself, but when I investigated futher I realized that it didn't. It just was not getting grounded through the little spring. That is when I deflected the tail of the spring outward so it would contact the bore. To complete the ground circuit the spring needs to contact the housing and the switch plunger nedds to be depressed.
I found the following reference from the old board to be helpful.
Jay
http://www.jensenhealey.com/msgboard.mv?parm_func=showmsg+parm_msgnum=1008604
Last edited on 06-05-2008 02:24 pm by Jay