 |
PM |  | |
Quote | | |
Reply | | |
Full Topic | |
| Joined: | 09-14-2006 |
| Location: | Malaysia |
| Posts: | 54 |
| Status: |
Offline
|
I can't run a dry sump no room under the bonnet, my car is built around a space frame designed for a 1.3 Ford Kent Engine, mine was built by Sylva for the Lotus Engine as a one off, but there is no room for tank and pump, I'm looking at an acusump for a winter projec,t and light rods, but my wife tells me I've spent my budget for this year.
That why I'm looking at the plates, I'll be making progress, using my time and not spending money.
I've got all the Oil mods, and I don't think I get oil starvation with the S4 sump as it is heavly baffeled. I'm realy just looking/playing at mods, and improvments. (I did get oil starvation with the 911 block and sump). I've got OIl restriction to the head, and opened up the returns, oil pressure is now good all the time in all the turns. My crank case breathes to a oil catch tank, and the engine had JP ring and pistons on new bores, when last run, so crank case pressure should not be an issue.
My last problem was that the HC JP (11.25) pistons touched the head gasket at 8500 and three pistons split. I'm now installing 10.5 CE pistons. This was caused by the guy who assembled the engine not putting the roll pins in the head and misaligning the gasket. (he is not working on my engine now). Hope to have the pistons in and the engine in today, ready for track day on Sunday.
If I mill 10 mm of the of the bottom of the bearing panel, how do I attach to the bearing panel, (tap and thread, then bolt?), From memory, 10 mm would just about bring the bottom of the bearing panel level with the bottom of the main bearing end caps, so I pressume I would also extend the bolts on the main bearing and bolt there?
How thick is the top deack plate? I thought you had to mill the top of the block down, and I was afraid of that as I do not think I can get a new S4 block again if I went to far, (changiing engine umbers is an issue here). but tig welding is easy.
If the plate is tig welded how do you take the liners out, I pressume you can't without 'breaking the weld?
I am looking at this, but it will be over the winter and I will keep you informed with pictures.
Thanks Kelvin